Hello all I've been lurking for a while gathering good data and finally joined. I recently purchased a non running m1025. It's a 90 model great condition overall and got it home. I put some batteries in it as the originals were toast. I was working on another project that day but after I put batteries in it did crank fine but no starting The wait light working or appearing to and the "thunk" from the stat box when operating the start lever so I though I'd get back to it later in the day. Also all the lights worked as well when I checked them. Anyway a few hours later I wa going to see if I could find the problem with no starting.. I went to crank it over and I got a really faint click and then nothing at all. No wait light no e brake light no headlights nothing. No power to heater or wipers either. I traced power from batteries through starter to the plug to the kds box. It has 25 volts going into the box. Then traced it to the start switch and there's voltage there. There is also voltage on one pin of the headlight switch. I have another hummer so I put the headlight switch and start switch from my hummer into the bad hummer and still nothing. I did notice when I move the start switch from off to position 1, that I lose voltage to the headlight switch and this is not normal as my running hummer maintains the 25 volts at the headlight switch when you move it from off to position 1. Is my box bad and If so what do I need to check before I put in another box and blow it? Also I found the two circuit breakers behind dash but no voltage on either side of both. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this forum has taught me so much. Thanks in advance to all.
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Newbie with M1025 and big problem
- Thread starter Krausk
- Start date
- 10,199
- 5,957
- 113
- Location
- Camp Wood/LC, TX
Voltage that appears and disappears with lighting loads is almost always battery terminal or battery cable connection problems. Remove the ends of the positive and negative cables one by one, clean and retighten. Oh and welcome to the website.
Ok so I followed the trouble shooting manual and resistance checked glow plug controller. It is definitely bad. However, i still have no lights (headlights) or otherwise after cleaning up and tightening battery convections. Also, I resistance checked the glow plug wires to engine hardness connectors (575 wires) to all 8 cylinders and it's good. I noticed when testing the 575 wire at the harness connector, that when I touch it is 0 ohms as well. Does it make sense that the 575 wire is grounded? That is what I am seeing. Is that correct? I've ordered a new gpc and box. But still have no lights, wipers, or anything. Are these circuits totally separate? I'm getting there. Thanks a lot
- 10,199
- 5,957
- 113
- Location
- Camp Wood/LC, TX
Turn on the lights and use your voltmeter to measure between the truck frame and: 1) the negative chassis ground battery post, 2) the +24 volt battery post, the +24 volt terminal on the starter motor. Readings should be zero, +24, +24.
First thanks to those who chose to help me. Next is the usual suspect I've read about so many time. Loose cable on underside of battery box. First negative then positive. Then I had lights then I had a live starting vehicle which I didn't have when purchased. I did the hard troubleshooting then the easy. In any case it's a runner now. Will post pics soon. It came out of national guard depot and it's mint.