Newbie with MEP-003 Questions

[Team1k]

I recently picked up a MEP-003 generator from a friend who purchased it on a GL site, which lead to me finding this site. Thanks to all the knowledge here I've been going through the generator replacing filters, oil, cleaning the tank, etc... and am almost ready to put it back together but have a couple questions im hoping you guys can help me with.

First is this wire with a flat metal piece and a broken plastic end. Ive looked all around the area its in and cannot find where it goes or what its for. Im hoping its not for something I am missing(I have the oil filter housing, its just removed in the picture)



Next I found this fuel line sitting disconnected as shown in the picture, with a plug in its port on what I believe is the injector pump. I assume that plug should be removed and the fitting attached? Is plugging this port part of a long term storage procedure? Just curious as to why its like that.


Lastly is this hole in the shroud. It is directly over the 2 middle injectors(?). Everything in that area seems normal, and im not sure if this is a common spot for cancer rust to form, or if it indicates something wrong? Since it seemed odd to me I figured I better ask before firing it up.


Thanks again for providing this site with all its knowledge, and thanks in advance for any help!

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[Isaac-1]

First to answer your questions, there are only 2 sets of wires in that area, one goes to the solenoid next to the injection pump, the other goes to the centrifugal speed switch under the fan shroud, I an guessing you have part of the second in the photo.

Secondly it is not common to remove any fuel lines from the injectors or injector pump, this may be a sign of problems

As to the hole no clue whats up, unless maybe there was a fire there that burned through the shroud.

The thing I am most concerned about is the missing uncapped fuel lines from the injection pump and the return lines from the injectors. Those fittings look very corroded and when it comes to diesel injection systems open fitting should always be plugged and covered, cleanliness is VERY important here, one fleck of paint can clog the whole thing.

 

[R Racing]

The fuel line as you call it goes into the top of the injection pump . You just need to push it down a tad into the fitting where it is at and tighten it up.

 

[dependable]

I agree with Ike, that is part of the switch that locks out starter once motor comes to speed (S7). It should be under the little oval housing with a wing nut in your second picture.

Looks like the fuel return line on top of pump, usually this goes to a 90d fitting and a flex hose.

Looking at the picture, the holes in top of shroud were cut, I think I see drill holes or gas cutting.

Looks like unit has been worked on by someone less than qualified. Start by downloading the TMs, free from the manuals section on this forum.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yes, that hole was torch cut. You still have a good bit of work ahead before you have a working genset.

 

[Team1k]

Thanks everyone so far, its been very helpful and gave me a starting point as ive been looking through these manuals. So for sure at this point I need all 4 fuel lines, and the start control switch assembly. I guess the first question is if in your opinions its worth proceeding with repairs, or would I be better off starting over with a different unit. If it depends on my repair skills, I would same im a decent DIY person with a good amount of experience working/building up cars(jeeps mostly). In the diesel department my only experience is replacing parts on my 6.0 Ford Powerstroke motor. For electrical im fairly familiar with DC, but my AC knowledge is lacking and although I understand the basics of electrical diagrams, they tend to overwhelm me.

If I do go the repair route, ive found the fuel hoses for around 50-60 each online, but am curious if that's the best way to go, or has anyone tried having a local shop make some? Do they need to be hardlines or would properly rated softlines work? I also found the switch assembly for $275, so it looks like I should be able to get the needed parts easily enough.

Thanks again everyone, and I apologize for my newbie questions in advance.

 

[dependable]

Perhaps you could determine condition of unit a little more before throwing a lot of money at it. See if the motor turns free(5/8 socket at front of fan), look for signs of burnt stator and control board components. These rigs are pretty tough and easy to work on once you know their layout. If the only things wrong with it are shown, it might not be that bad. Would not be surprised if there is IP is bad, or maybe someone just canabalized the lines. There is a lot of good advice for these in the generator WIKI also.

You want steel lines from IP to injectors. The rest can be flexible. You might want to look around, parts can be had pretty reasonably if you find someone who is parting one out. You should be able to bypass the broken switch to test start before you spend for that.

Whether this one is a good place to start depends if you don't need a working generator right away and if you do not mind a project. My first MEP was all messed up, but I got it going and learned a lot.

edit note: If you do turn over motor and IP is siezed, you will break it. Some people take that off first, but that is another job. Some would advise running in 'prime' position first.

 

[Rapracing]

looks like a project piece to me. I'd try looking at a worse case and getting an idea what it might cost along with what I have in it now and make a decision from there. It may be worth more in parting out and back up parts for another unit.

 

[m16ty]

On the fuel hoses, you can cut the fittings off the hose and just pick up some replacement fuel hose of the correct size at the local auto parts place.

What you do is remove the thin metal crimp on the fitting taking care not to cut into the hose too deep in the process. I usually use a bench grinder and just grind a slot in it, remove the hose, and then use some wire cutters to finish cutting the crimp off close to the fitting. After you do this you can pull the hose off and there is a standard barb fitting under there (this is why you don't want to cut too deep into the hose when removing the crimp, you don't want to damage the barb). Pick you up some fuel hose of the proper size, slide it on the barb, and secure with a hose clamp.

 

[Team1k]

I was following another thread that said to spin the fan first to make sure the motor wasn't siezed before bothering with the fuel system so I'd done that before posting this thread and it spun freely. If I broke the IP would I have noticed anything? Or does it break easily enough I wouldn't know it?

also as an update, when I spoke to my friend about it we realized he has the same generator at his home we could borrow the lines and switch from temporarily to see if mine is good before we order parts for it so that will be nice. I think my next step is looking through the forum for a good way to clean the rust/corrosion off the pump and injectors without potentially clogging them.

 

[m16ty]

I wouldn't be too worried about junk on the outside of the pump. It's what got in through that open hole where the line went that will cause you problems.

About the only way to know the condition of the injector pump is to see if it will pump fuel. If it won't, you'll need to service it or replace it. I haven't been inside one of these IPs but most aren't serviceable by the average Joe so I'd look for a reasonably priced replacement.

 

[Isaac-1]

Ok, lets put some numbers on this and take a middle of the road cost approach assuming there are no problems that are not potentially visible now and look at the cost of the parts that are currently suspect, the M50 injection pump, missing steel injection lines, and possibly 4 injectors:

A rebuilt M50 can be found for about $300, rarely you can find used ones for less, a new timing button for the pump which you will most likely need runs $35-$75 depending on source

4 new injectors (these are starting to get hard to find) are running about $180 each on ebay at the moment, but sometimes show up used in the $50 range (used does not mean working right), yours might also just need rebuilding, $30-$130 depending on what they need.

4 Steel injection lines, hard to find or expensive, unless someone is parting out a unit so lets guess $100-$300, you might be able to get them custom built, but I would guess your looking at over the $300 range for that.

Centrifugal Switch I would guess $75 or so on the used market, an ebay seller has a new one for about $240 at the moment.

To me this is sounding more and more like a parts machine, but you really will not know until you find out the state of the injection pump and injectors

Ike

p.s. if you barrow a set of injection lines use a proper line wrench to remove them, the brass end fittings is very soft and will be rounded by a box wrench

 

[Keith_J]

That much "work" done on it before you got it is a sign things are not good inside. I would say pulling the injection pump and doing a tear down of it will find an issue, I bet the drive key broke. These pumps are a Bosch distributor design, a single plunger actuated off a cam lobe pressurizes the fuel for all cylinders. To distribute the fuel to the cylinders, the plunger also rotates at camshaft speed, a radial fuel passage drilling then times the fuel to the correct cylinder. The drive key couples the cam drive gear to the plunger, allowing for the plunger to move from the cam. When the plunger sticks in the bore, rotating the cam can cause this key to break. Then you have no distribution function, the cam can easily jam the plunger in the bore when there is diesel varnish.

Now, if that happened, you don't need a new pump, just a drive key and the o-ring kit. Plus a very good cleaning. Berryman B12 is excellent to remove diesel varnish, just remember to lube the pump plunger and bore with light oil. There are threads in this forum covering this overhaul, very simple save the button retainer and spring keeper. There, a small magnet is very helpful. If the plunger is stuck, it can be driven out with a brass drift. Do this before trying to remove the spring keeper, just to make life easier. With the plunger stuck in the up position, the spring is compressed and you cannot get space to remove retainers.

The fun part will be routing the new steel lines, some people don't take care when removing the old ones and put slight bends in them.

 

[rosco]

Clean is CLEAN! Many would say its not possible to clean the open fittings, without contaminating them, and no telling, what is already down inside them. You have so many. I would do some quick addition. Your real close to it being practical to look for another machine, either a doanner, or a runner.