Vintage iron
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NHC 250 Injector and Valve Adjustment Issues
- Thread starter Kalashnikov
- Start date
augiedoggy
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On the injector torque, when the intake and exhaust rockers are loose the cylinder is in the firing postion and the injector should be closed (meaning if you attempt to push down on the injector rocker it won't go anymore) thats when it gets torqued to 70 in. lbs. Definitley do not over torque the injectors you could bend a push tube.
My problem I had setting mine was my torque wrench. bought a new one which worked fine.
When setting my injectors, I would loosen each one and then tighten it back down with a screwdriver( to close it); back off a little and then use torque wrench to set properly.
Credit: Will Wagner (purveyor of cummins knowledge)
Kalashnikov
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Yup, that is how I did it. My torque wrench is brand new.
I was told that if there is fuel still in the injector you will get a false reading. That's the only thing I'd think would be the problem but i thought that's what the point of torquing it multiple times was.
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No. don't re set the injectors. Once you set it it is set. No reason to re do it OR increase the torque, you'll bend things. The fuel is pushed out when it was set if there were any in it. The advice you got is FUD. When you shut the truck off, did you use the shut down cable on the dash? If so, ya gotta re set the lever on the pump manually. The PT system will prime itself, no bleeding needed. Just hold your foot to the wood and you'll be good. Just remember to let up when it starts.
Kalashnikov
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I reset the lever when I finished working on the engine and even checked to make sure the cut off wasn't seized closed inside the valve. I also tried the manual bypass on the electric solenoid with no luck.
I ran it long enough on starting fluid to fill the air tanks (re: can and a half). I've killed my batteries cranking and had the pedal all the way to the floor with no luck at all.
Ord22
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be careful of using starting fluid, you can blow an inj tip off! you shouldn't never use that much starting fluid anyway.
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Easy on the starting fluid. It likes to loosen carbon and then it gets into the ring lands and before you know it, you have stuck rings. That means pushing pistons out. Got an air compressor? Loosen the line that goes into the pump a turn or two, Take the fuel cap off, insert a blow gun and use a few rags to seal the filer opening. Give the blow bun a blip or two...go easy here, you can split a tank and this works best with a soldier B watching at the pump, wrench in hand. When fuel starts coming out of the line, tighten the fitting and remove the rags from the filler. The lines and gear pump will now be full of fuel. If you like, loosen the outlet line on the pump and crank it. The fuel should come out within a few revs of the engine. Did you fix the original issue of fuel in the coolant? The heads need to come off to fix that.
Parks
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Send your phone# , It will be to much typing for me. so I can tell you much quicker and save your engine .
Don't start it till u talk to me!!
Don't start it till u talk to me!!
162tcat
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Umm this was from 2011. You may be a little late to the party.
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Parks
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Just a little ,sorry I didn't read the date on your post I have a similar issue with mine now working on it..
Look in the 5 ton stickies for the proper procedure and a video
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