No AC output

[240hippie]

Ground loops do weird things. you should have 4 wires from the set to the house. if there is no switching of your neutral connection (most common) then you need to be sure the neutral to ground bond at the generator is open.

I only have the generator supplying 120V. So it is a 3 wire. I was just informed about the bonding strip on TB1 by a dude in Germany. I will look at that.

 

[240hippie]

Real Deal hook up. I will check TB1. AWG8 wire, twist lock plugs, lock out on breaker box. There always seems to be a "reference TM". I never can find these "TM". But I will check TB1, i would be surprised after working correctly for 7 hours hooked to my home, that would be the problem. Never know

Okay brother, were is TB1 ?? I have found TB2 which is the lug panel. Also when I find TB1, what am I looking for and what do I do?

 

[240hippie]

How did you connect it to the house? Back feeding? Or a real hook up system? The Bonding strap should be unhooked when your house is connected. @kloppk can maybe explain this better or maybe @Scoobyshep ? The bonding strap is located on the TB1, output load panel. Under the load terminals. There is reference to it in the operators TM.

Okay brother, were is TB1 ?? I have found TB2 which is the lug panel. Also when I find TB1, what am I looking for and what do I do?

I attached a pic, is that the bonding strap??

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yes it is

 

[240hippie]

Yes it is

Okay, so just remove it. Right

 

[Scoobyshep]

loosten the top nut rotate the bar clockwise, tighten nut.

 

[240hippie]

loosten the top nut rotate the bar clockwise, tighten nut.

Okay, I already took it off completely. No improvement. Still nothing on the voltage gauge. Hertz is running 60 on the nose. The light for the AC Interrupter Switch does not light up. Nothing at the convenience receptacle. Everything else on the machine is working properly. I find it hard to believe that one little ground wire is the culprit here. I rechecked the fuse on the quad relay that is in the regulator, good. This thing is spotless under the panels. 40 hours on its tier 2.

 

[240hippie]

your lockout physical interlock or manually applying loto?

The lock out is a mnaul type. You have to turn off the Main for the house before you can turn on the breaker for the gnerator.

 

[Scoobyshep]

The lock out is a mnaul type. You have to turn off the Main for the house before you can turn on the breaker for the gnerator.

A sliding block. Something that physically prevents you from closing both breakers at the same time?

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

 

[240hippie]

A sliding block. Something that physically prevents you from closing both breakers at the same time?

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Yes. It is a sliding lock out, and not the cheap China one. This is USA made.

 

[240hippie]

Yes. It is a sliding lock out, and not the cheap China one. This is USA made.

So, When I took K1 apart. It has some small burn spots (tiny) on the 3 pull down contacts. Cleaned. I took the bottom off and the inside looked new. Is the more cleaning that may need done ? How would I test K1 ? Is there a procedure to test the AC Voltage regulator that has the quad relay in it ? OR should I start looking at the Stator head itself ?

 

[Scoobyshep]

So, When I took K1 apart. It has some small burn spots (tiny) on the 3 pull down contacts. Cleaned. I took the bottom off and the inside looked new. Is the more cleaning that may need done ? How would I test K1 ? Is there a procedure to test the AC Voltage regulator that has the quad relay in it ? OR should I start looking at the Stator head itself ?

slight pitting and burning is normal in K1. you get a frequency so some power is being made. are you skilled with a multi meter?

With the set running measure the voltages at the contactor. both sides lets see if the head is making power first.

 

[240hippie]

slight pitting and burning is normal in K1. you get a frequency so some power is being made. are you skilled with a multi meter?

With the set running measure the voltages at the contactor. both sides lets see if the head is making power first.

Standing on the trailer while this is running is, well my feet feel funny. A1 to A2 (0-VAC) B1 to B2 (2.5- VAC, C1 to C2 (24.9-VAC) This was pole to pole. The readings were the same from ground PPGND ( the repaired burnt ground) to all pole of K1.

 

[Scoobyshep]

need a to b b to c and c to a both sides

 

[Ray70]

Didn't you already say the HZ meter and outlet were working? if so you are making power.
I've just skimmed over this whole thread briefly, but if sounds like you simply aren't getting K1 to close, correct?
If you have Hz reading, have a voltage reading and the outlet works then the only thing stopping power going to the lugs is the K1 contactor and its control circuit. Go back to post #15, did you remove the small wires and apply 24V to the x and y terminals? If the contactor closed then the issue is in the control circuit for the contactor, not K1 itself.
Granted you still need to determine what burned the wire, but at least you will know if K1 is working or not.

 

[240hippie]

need a to b b to c and c to a both sides

A1 to B1= 2.6VAC , A2 to B1= 2.5VAC, B2 to C1= 24.5VAC, B1 to C1=14.5VAC, C2 to C1= 24.5 VAC

 

[240hippie]

Didn't you already say the HZ meter and outlet were working? if so you are making power.
I've just skimmed over this whole thread briefly, but if sounds like you simply aren't getting K1 to close, correct?
If you have Hz reading, have a voltage reading and the outlet works then the only thing stopping power going to the lugs is the K1 contactor and its control circuit. Go back to post #15, did you remove the small wires and apply 24V to the x and y terminals? If the contactor closed then the issue is in the control circuit for the contactor, not K1 itself.
Granted you still need to determine what burned the wire, but at least you will know if K1 is working or not.

HZ gauge is running at 60. No power to the convenience receptacle. No AC volt on gauge. As for 24V to X and Y terminal. Ground to X - power to Y ?? Or Power to both ?

 

[Scoobyshep]

It looks like you arent getting enough excitation

 

[Ray70]

Ah, I see... I read where you said Hz at 60 and everything else was working and I assumed that meant the outlet was also working.
Looking above it looks like voltage there is a gen head issue, or regulator problem.
When you said Quad fuse was good, I assume you tested with a meter?

 

[Guyfang]

Okay, I already took it off completely. No improvement. Still nothing on the voltage gauge. Hertz is running 60 on the nose. The light for the AC Interrupter Switch does not light up. Nothing at the convenience receptacle. Everything else on the machine is working properly. I find it hard to believe that one little ground wire is the culprit here. I rechecked the fuse on the quad relay that is in the regulator, good. This thing is spotless under the panels. 40 hours on its tier 2.

You still do not seem to understand. I told you that the burnt wire HAS NOTHING to do with you lack of output. I tried to tell you that the wire could be burnt because you had the gen set improperly wired to the house.

I then told you how to check the K1. You seem to have forgotten to do that. This is also the first time you have told us that you have no voltage at the 120 volt outlet. That right there tells us the K1 is NOT THE Problem. You have no initial excitation.