No brake lights / stop lights

[cptd]

I have been searching for a solution to my brake light problem, though others seem to have similar issues, I haven't found a solution to my problem. I have however tried as many things as I could from other folks suggestions on other threads.

I have no brake lights, period.

I have checked continuity on the brake light switch, it is good. I have checked for power on both sides at the rear of the vehicle at the bullet connectors near the rear bumper, I have power on one of the three posts and coninuity on the ground. I have no power going to the brake light post. I have checked and cleaned and reset every ground I can find, front, rear, and in between.

I have checked and cleaned every connection that I can trace. I get lost between the brake light switch and the outbound side of the fuse box.

I have to drive to work in the dark everyday, and have nearly been rear-ended at least half a dozen times in the last three weeks.

I am tempted to run a jumper from the switch straight to the brake light (a previous owner did this, but did a poor job that affected the turn signals and markers), but I know that is only a temporary fix.

Short of pulling the steering wheel and replacing the turn signal switch, where else can I search for a fix to this?

Thanks for whatever assistance you may be able to provide.

CPTD

 

[blackhueys]

did you check the B/O switches?

 

[Rodger]

I am guessing that you have a CUCV from the avatar. I am not familiar with CUCV, but have a deuce and had a Pinzgauer. Could it be on the switch that controls the black out lights?

Rodger

 

[cptd]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have checked the BO switch. It is good because I have horn headlights and all other.

CPTD

 

[cpf240]

Did you test for voltage at the brake light switch? Perhaps a bad connection at the fuse box?

It could also be the emergency flasher switch.

Take a look at the wiring diagrams in the back of the TMs... those brake light wires go all over the place!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have checked the BO switch. It is good because I have horn headlights and all other.

And all other? Turn signals, too?

 

[cptd]

Yes I have turn signals, front and rear. Markers front and rear. Reverse lights. Headlights. All lights except the brake/stop lights.

I have voltage at the brake switch in and out.

I am lost reading the wiring diagrams and tracing the wires into and out of the fuse box.

CPTD

 

[notin_but_steel]

so this is kind of a redneck rig job but it worked for me.
I had the same problem when I got mine so heres what I did.

First We did the same test, we got power to the tail lights but no power to the brakes. After playing around with it a while we decided to say screw it. We took an old vacuum power cord wired it up to the brake pedal pressure switch and ran it to the back.

Now the only thing is somewhere I have a crossed wire with my reverse lights so what I did was buy fog lights and mounted them on my bumper for reverse lights (great for plowing anyway) and instead put yellow bulbs where the factory reverse socket is. Its a bit complicated but you just move a few wires around and now I have yellow turn signals.

However when I hit my brakes the yellow bulds light up as well. Just thaught this would help if you weren't picky about having red and yellow brake lights. message me if you want more descriptive details

 

[Barney-the-Duece]

You mentioned that you checked the continuity of the brake light switch? I am assuming you are referring to the switch under the dash at the brake pedal? If not, then check that switch. I did have problems with my brake lights. It turned out the be the switch (only a $8.00 part) so you might want to try changing that in any case. Mine would sometimes work for a while then stop. You may also check the alignment of the switch. It might not be adjusted right so that when the pedal is depressed it activates properly.

I also had a problem where I replaced one of the bulbs with a new bulb and it still didnt work. I look at all different things why it wasnot working, then decided to change the bulb again. That did it! It was just a bad "new" bulb.

Just some ideas.

 

[notin_but_steel]

yea that little white switch at the pedal was a pain for me too. had to hit it with a wire brush and some electrical cleaner. but yes its probably cruded up inside I would try replacing that after checking the bulbs like ^^Barney^^ said

 

[Terracoma]

I am lost reading the wiring diagrams and tracing the wires into and out of the fuse box.

The feed wire to the brake light switch is an 18-gauge orange wire (Circuit-140) and goes directly from the brake light switch to the fuse block position labeled "Stop Lights" in the diagram that I've attached below. From there it becomes a 12-gauge orange wire (Circuit-914) and heads up to the B/O service light toggle switch. Circuit-914 transitions to a orange/black wire at the B/O service toggle and connects to the normal headlight switch....... But as I said, it sounds like everything upstream of here is good to go.

It could also be the emergency flasher switch.

I think cpf240 is onto something... Appendix F of the -20TM, Figures 13 and 14 should be the ticket.

At the brake light switch, there's an 18-gauge white/black wire (Circuit-913) that runs downstream from the above to the B/O service light toggle switch. From the B/O service toggle, there's an 18-gauge white wire (Circuit-17A) that connects to the Turn/Hazard switch.

After the Turn/Hazard switch, the wiring breaks out into a yellow wire (Circuit-18, driver-rear) and a dark green wire (Circuit-19, pass-rear) and run individually to each of the rear lights. But if your turn signal lever actuates the rear flashers just fine, then I would assume that Circuits-18 and -19 and both good.

This should narrow down your problem being somewhere along Circuit-17A, the white wire between the B/O service light toggle and the turn/hazard switch.


...

 

[Shoprat 19th Engr]

Would say that your brake light problem is the turn signal switch check that you have power going in to the switch and you will find that the power is not coming out So it will be the turn signal switch

 

[top_prop]

Do you have interior dash illumination and lights or are they out as well?

 

[cptd]

Yes I do have dash and all other lights.

The only lights that don't work are stop lights and the blue high beams indicators.

CPTD

 

[Barney-the-Duece]

When I had problems with my brake lights not working, I did change the turn signal switch (had to anyway since it already had problems not locking on). After changing the turn signal switch I still had the same problem. I finally checked and replaced the turn light switch. That fixed the problem.

 

[cptd]

What is the difference between the turn signal and turn light switch?

CPTD

 

[scoutdoors1000]

I had the same problem. I checked EVERYTHING. I pulled my fuse box and sprayed it down I did EVERYTHING.....except check the continuity of the wires. I thought I had continuity by pulling on the wires. The key thing was the numb skulls who put on my civy trailer hitch chewed through two of my wires. I initially thought that Feeling the wires was good enough, but there was about 4 inches on the inside of the frame rail that I couldnot feel. I loosened the harness at the rear of the vehicle and pulled it all loose so I could actually inspect visually every inch. I had to essentially disconnect the plastic connectors (bullet connectors as I think you called them) and pull the lines from most of their locations at the rear of the vehicle. You need to free up an additional 2 feet. Then VISUALLY inspect everything. Touch is not good enough. I then had to solder a splice in and it fixed it all.

 

[cptd]

So after all of your suggestions here is the latest:

I have replaced every switch (headlight, turn signal, dimmer, ignition), I have replaced all bulbs three times, I have replaced all fuses three times.

I have traced all of the wires at the rear end of the vehicle.

I ran a jumper from the brake switch (white plunger type attached to the brake pedal assembly) with an inline fuse all the way back to the light assembly at the rear and spliced it into the wire for the marker light (not the turn signal filament as that killed my turn signals when I pressed the brakes).

Now I do not have dash lights or marker lights until I press the brake pedal. It seems as though I am putting voltage into the system from the rear of the vehicle now rather than from the front. None of the above mentioned lights (dash, courtesy, brake, or marker) work when I remove the fuse from my jumper wire.

The physical symptom is no marker lights and dash lights when I have the headlights on and no brake lights without the jumper.

Please help. I now have brake lights so I won't get rear-ended, but I don't have marker lights so the odds are against me as to getting a ticket for lights out.

Thanks,

CPTD

 

[cptd]

No replies? Please assist.

CPTD

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I'll jump in here for the benefit of anyone else struggling with an electric problem.

I thought I had continuity by pulling on the wires.

WRONG!


Continuity is an electrical term. It can only be checked by electricity. That means a meter or test light. It cannot be checked by eye or by touch. Wires can break or corrode inside the insulation, and there's no way to see that or feel that in most cases. ONCE in a while it might be visible.

Always check with a meter or test light. If you are checking for power, a test light is preferred, because a meter can show voltage on an unloaded circuit, but it will drop to zero (or close to it) when a load is put on it.