No fuel coming out IP on mep-003

scrapdaddy

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Well, I've read all the posts going back two years and TM's. I finally have fuel to the IP and return line to tank. I pulled the IP and checked some of it, meaning I removed the button and turned and pushed everything seems to be working, I guess. I did remove the delivery valve and spring before and got shaft to move some. Took the valve cover off and timed everything right with the PC mark. Put everything back and still don't have fuel at injectors or coming out Ip ports. Before I remove IP again is there anything about bleeding the IP that I missed. When you guys say to crack a line, does that just mean loosen the nut or remove the flared tubing from it's seat. Anything else I should try before trying to totally take the IP apart. Also are you guys using a fixture to hold the IP in a vise or not.
 

scrapdaddy

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I been wanting to tell all of you , who take time out of their own lives to help all of us, Thank You! all these different posts have made this so far a great experience for me. I would have never gotten this far into this if it wasn't for you guys. I beleive helping others in this hobby is what Steel Soldiers is all about and my goal is to be able to help some others along the journey.

My hat is off to all of you! :beer:
 

RIrvin

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Kirkwood MO
Had similar problem. Got IP rebuilt at Diesel Fuel Injection Service, in STL . You will KNOW when fuel is flowing properly as small opening at nut will produce much fuel. Pump was my defect. Ensure pump is seated tight against block otherwise no flow. There have been several posts on IP work.
 

scrapdaddy

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Thanks, I got mine all apart and the plunger is very tight in there and that's the problem. I wasn't sure if they would mess with generator pumps. I'm going to give them a call Monday. Did you get your's running good, they got some great guys on here that will help. I got alot of the threads printed just so I have them them. There's alot of parts inside the pump! How to do you like your generator, got it hooked up to your house .

Thanks again, Ron
 

scrapdaddy

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Yep, That's been one of many threads that have been by my side for a week now. Got me enough courage to take the pump apart, found the problem and now I have to buy some of the little clips that went flying, like everybody said they would. Thanks
 

RIrvin

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The MEP-003 is tied to house system through a transfer switch. All works well. Glad to show you if you wish and are nearby.

Robert
 

scrapdaddy

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Dittmer, Mo.
We just finished wiring up my house. I have a plug in the garage and will run a cord out @ 35 feet to the gen. set on the trailer. My trailer is the 1.5 ton with two mep-003"s on it. I used a interlock system on my box, that why I can use whatever I what to in the house and/or shop. One day I would like to see your setup. I'm out Hwy. 30 about 30 miles from Kirkwood. Thanks
 

Speddmon

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I just saw this thread. I'm glad to hear you found the stuck plunger and are in the process of repairing it. Let us know if you need any help or advice, I know there are a few people here who have taken them apart and done repairs.
 

scrapdaddy

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Hi Speddmon, Glad you're on stand by! I have two 003's on a trailer, the first one was locked up [ stuck ] got it rotating, but everything was gummed up with old fuel right to the IP. Had to take apart, didn't really want to. Got down to the two little spring clips, under the button and lost one aua
So I started on the other until I can order parts. The second one was free turning at least. I'll take my time and go through it with all the great posts from all you guys that went before. I've learned alot this past week.

Thank You, Ron

I'll report back as I go along
 

storeman

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I've been following mep-002a and 003a posts for a year and had hoped to have the time to work on my mep-002a before now, but wasn't able to. i cleaned lines and filters, etc and had pinholes in the fuel tank welded. I started the unit a month ago and could get it to run about 5 minutes each time. 60 cycles, good power output. Black then gray blue smoke, then it would die as if starving for fuel. I found #1 cylinder was getting very little fuel from IP.

Got a chance to go back to work on it over the weekend. removed and disassembled IP.Nothing really bad about the IP but cleaned it and reassembled it. I did notice the plastic Delivery Valve Spacer #12, page 7-32 in the -34 was shredded. I don't know how important this is. The one in my Mep-003a was also shredded. I have no idea of the specs on the spacer and the TM implies some don't have them.

I got confused reading the TM and some of the posts on other threads. There is a "Locating Screw" with brass washer (#13 and 14, page 7-32). I located the gear slot and locked it down before reinstalling the IP, thinking the "Timing Screw" (#31) had something to do with the timing.

Everything I've read here implies that I should have left the Locating screw" out and put a 1/8" rod in as a temp locating tool. If so, when is the "Timing Screw" applied and what does it do? suffice it to say the unit cranks like mad but only spits fuel mist out the exhausts, no firing. Both cylinders now getting fuel.

Obviously, I failed to time it because I assumed that since the Locating Screw seated and button did not change and I had not disturbed the position of the crankshaft, all would be good. Thought I found a shortcut to timing. I hope I haven't screwed up anything and plan to pull the IP again once I can get clarity on the "Locating" and "Timing" screws. Hopefully, I'm not hijacking this thread since it is about IPs.

Also forgot to mention that I found no "cross drive washer" as mentioned by Treeman back in February, nor is it in the IP schematics. Don't know where to look for it. Perhaps an older/newer model of IP?


Help, please.
Jerry:confused:
 
Last edited:

treeguy

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Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
How deeply did you disassemble the IP? The drive washer that I had issues with is under the face gear. Upon removing the spring keepers and the spring located in the teeth side of the face gear you need to gently pry off the band camp (he he he, he said band camp!) aghhhhemm, band clamp/spring clip. The face gear should slide off of the piston shaft and on the under side of the face gear is a machined out area in the shape of the wretched drive washer. So the washer fits only one way into the face gear and the piston shaft has a flat on it to receive the flat in the drive washer. This is how the piston shaft is able to spin and plunge in and out at the same time. If I remember correctly it is the spinning of the piston shaft that is responsible for the opening (blocking and unblocking) of the injector line ports. This is how each cyl. is delievered fuel at the correct time.

Storeman, it sounds like when you reassembled the IP you timed it to the exhaust not the intake cycle. You might be able to just take the pump off, take out the timing screw, insert a 3/32" dia. wire put slight pressure on the wire and rotate the gear until the wire drops into the next notch (the only notch I mean, there is only one). It just determines what phase of the ignition cycle its timmed to.

We'll figure it out, but I'm perplexed about the plastic item you mentioned, no plastic parts in mine.
 

scrapdaddy

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Jerry, my spacer was bent up a little, but not shreded. You might need a new one. I never read where you don't need one in there. There's a better picture of it on page 7-32. If you can go to the Ambac website and look at the model 50 service instructions, it shows the Oldham plunger guide, that Treeguy is talking about.
 

storeman

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Mathews County, VA
looks like I may have more disassembly to do. i took it completely apart as far as i knew. every part in the TM was laying on my bench.
will try to rotate the timing first. still no answer about difference in the two screws, both of which go into the housing but appear to be named backwards.:confused:
thanks,
jerry
 
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