No Start After Fuel Filter Replacement

[avlon01]

Just replaced my fuel filter. Now the engine will crank, but not turn over.

These are the steps I followed:

1. Remove old filter
2. Install new filter
3. Open fuel tank cap
4. Open vent valve
5. Disconnect solinoid wire
6. Crank until clear fuel comes out of tube from vent plug.
7. Closed vent plug.
8. Closed fuel cap.
9. Reconnected solinoid wire
10. Tired to start - no luck.

Any suggestions? I followed the TM and have never had a problem starting the M1009 before.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Is the pink wire on the injector the same as the solenoid wire you mentioned?

 

[cpf240]

If it "cranks" , then it is "turning over" ...

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Try 6-10 again, and floor your accelerator.

 

[avlon01]

Tried steps 6 - 10 and floored accelerator.

Now I'm getting a fast clicking noise when I turn the ignition key.

 

[cpf240]

Fast clicking can mean that the batteries have gotten too weak. Put them on a charger.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

^^^ Yep.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Has you opened any injector lines to see if you fuel at them?

You can also add a squeeze buld in the fuel line to help prime it. You can pump turn the key to open the fuel shut off, the pump the bulb until it has plenty of pressure and fuel at injectors. Then try to start, also soldier B can pump the bulb when trying to start and when it starts if needed. Then after it up and running, you can leave the bulb or remove it.
This saves some wear on the starter.
I did this on my truck, I have the bulb at the tank but it should work at the filter if you have to tank access.

Hope this helps

 

[joshuak]

Just replaced my fuel filter. Now the engine will crank, but not turn over.

These are the steps I followed:

1. Remove old filter
2. Install new filter
3. Open fuel tank cap
4. Open vent valve
5. Disconnect solinoid wire
6. Crank until clear fuel comes out of tube from vent plug.
7. Closed vent plug.
8. Closed fuel cap.
9. Reconnected solenoid wire
10. Tired to start - no luck.

Any suggestions? I followed the TM and have never had a problem starting the M1009 before.

A good nights rest?

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Get it running?

 

[avlon01]

Nope. Both batteries failed testing. They came with the truck and I have no idea how old they are.

I'm heading out to get new ones tomorrow. Just to be sure - will any Group 31 battery fit in the trays? I have a car show on Sunday to attend so I'm looking for a "plug and play" battery. The Group 31's seem easy to find by me.

 

[avlon01]

Just dropped in some Group 31 batteries from Advanced Auto. Dropped right in to the existing battery trays and hold down brackets.

Truck started right up - runs better now than it has in a while.

Thanks all!!

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks for the update and fix,alot of us newer guys figure if its turning over it will start,but no it really has to be spinning to start well.I battled lots of problems with my first 1009 with hard starting til I finally bought a volt meter.I just figured I had 2 new redtop optimas so they were good.Not so,as soon as it would get cold out (0) no start.Discovered front batt.was at 7.5 volts and rear was 12.5 Explains why starters didn't last and the hard start issues.

 

[Assel]

had the same problem when one of my optimas (yellow) died last winter, showed 25V overall, 12.5 each..but on use it dropped on 8V.... Somehow it fried my gp controller card aswell, replaced it with one from antennaclimber and throw 2 new batteries in it and never had an issue since.

it all began when I changed my fuel filter ...huehuehue

 

[jpg]

It seems we've heard this story before... Is it the case that nearly-expired batteries are sometimes pushed to the point of failure by the stress of cranking to bleed air from the fuel system after a filter change?

I'm not sure if this argues for keeping the batteries on a trickle charger so they don't fail so quickly, or using an auxiliary pump to circulate fuel until the air is bled from the system after a filter change, or some means of detecting when batteries are near the point of failure. Or perhaps all three?

 

[Timber]

If you remove the glow plugs and disconnect the pink wire on the injection pump, the engine will spin over freely and much faster - it'll prime fuel quickly. It doesn't take that long to do and it will greatly cut down the amount of cranking you do to get it running again. I don't know if it'll extend the life of your batteries but your starter will appreciate it.

 

[Assel]

If you remove the glow plugs and disconnect the pink wire on the injection pump, the engine will spin over freely and much faster - it'll prime fuel quickly. It doesn't take that long to do and it will greatly cut down the amount of cranking you do to get it running again. I don't know if it'll extend the life of your batteries but your starter will appreciate it.

did that... but still took few "spins", but agree...maybe its a way to find worn out batteries in a CUCV ...

 

[jpg]

If you remove the glow plugs and disconnect the pink wire on the injection pump, the engine will spin over freely and much faster - it'll prime fuel quickly. It doesn't take that long to do and it will greatly cut down the amount of cranking you do to get it running again. I don't know if it'll extend the life of your batteries but your starter will appreciate it.

Thanks! How do you tell when it's primed and you can stop spinning?

 

[Timber]

Thanks! How do you tell when it's primed and you can stop spinning?

I've only done this once when I had to replace my injection pump. I'd read that you could see fuel "misting" out of the glow plug holes when it's primed. I never saw that, but my eyes aren't so good anymore. I just did three or four bursts on the starter lasting maybe a four or five count and it was good to go. Of course if you see fuel before that, you're good.

 

[joshuak]

How do you tell when it's primed and you can stop spinning?

Page 187 in the TM9-2320-289-20 gives instructions on bleeding the fuel system (10 steps), similar to what Timber is describing, with additions like: taking the fuel cap off, using the bleeder valve on filter to ensure fuel flow, letting the starter rest during cranks, etc.