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no start condition

D10Blazer

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Santa Monica
Hey everyone heres the problem i have an m1009 30,000 miles idk if there original probably not, I was doing some work on her trying to rewire the stereo, and add a cigarette/usb phone charger. Here is were i messed up and could use a little help I ran the positive of these electrical devices to the GP relay not knowing what it was ( did not have manual with me rookie mistake). The truck drove great all day yesterday and hasn't had a starting problem since I have owned it I bought it already converted to 12v so of course there are a bunch of hacked and cut wires. My question is could i have fried the GPcard,relay, and plugs by doing what i did or would the gp relay it self have shorted, All the relay does now is click repeatedly, fuel and compression have been checked are good.
 

rickf

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Disconnect everything you hooked in and see if that solves the problem. If not there is a good chance you may have damaged the controller circuit board.
 

Warthog

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Many times when a truck is converted to 12v, the GP relay will also need to be replaced. The contacts inside have carbon arcing on them.

There is a step-by-step procedure to test the GP controller card in the TM 9-2320-289-20 tech manual.

Without knowing how the truck has been "rewired", we will just be guessing on how to help you.

Also when did Santa Monica become a State? ;-) The forum rules require that you list your state of residence.
 

D10Blazer

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Location
Santa Monica
lol just set up this name in a rush so i probably have errors, picked up the truck in an emergency situation, unfortunately I understand that nobody will know the wiring situation better than my self I am just looking to see were someone would start in my situation. It looks like someone has already opened up the controller card box as well i think i just jumped into the fire with this one.
 

D10Blazer

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Location
Santa Monica
with that being said I have no problem running a toggle switch or push button for gp I would like to keep the original set up with the card however I have heard they are expensive.
 

rsh4364

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I would undo everything you did,then do some searching before doing any mods.Your mess up doesn't even qualify as a newbie screw up.
 
Last edited:

Warthog

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On a stock system, the glow plug realy has 6 wires on it. The large red wire provides the voltage. The two large orange wires are connected to the glow plugs. The small orange wire is connected with the othe rorange wires and provides a sense voltage to the controller card.

The other two wires actually control the relay. The small pink wire provides 12v contentiously when ever the key is in the run position. The small light blue wire provides a ground to energize the relay. The ground signal is provided by the controller card.

With all that said, if you are getting 12v at the small red wire when the key is in the run position, you just need to connect a wire to the terminal with the small blue wire, connect the other end to a push button switch, and then connect to ground.

That does assume that you have the correct relay installed.

E-7 - GP Manual switch2.jpg
 

D10Blazer

Member
36
17
8
Location
Santa Monica
got my hands on a gp relay

so I have read that you can use a different relay like a ford starter relay idk if that is true? I went out and was able to get a heavy duty continuous use starter relay $20 bucks not a huge waste. 85 for a new controller card isnt bad I can do that.
 

rickf

Well-known member
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Location
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"The pink wire provides 12 volt contentiously?" That is actually a pretty good description of CUCV electrics.rofl
Get the controller card and also get the right relay. If you start trying to cut corners then we will stop trying to help you because you will be creating problems beyond our control. Also get rid of the stock glow plugs and put in AC60G plugs, especially if you are going to a push button. They will not burn out or swell. You will have to put new ends on the wires to fit the plugs, simple job.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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"The pink wire provides 12 volt contentiously?" That is actually a pretty good description of CUCV electrics.rofl

ROFL! :beer:



Get the controller card and also get the right relay. If you start trying to cut corners then we will stop trying to help you because you will be creating problems beyond our control. Also get rid of the stock glow plugs and put in AC60G plugs, especially if you are going to a push button. They will not burn out or swell. You will have to put new ends on the wires to fit the plugs, simple job.

I'm thinking he might want to make sure the circuit is working before he messes with the GPs. One thing at at time, to reduce confusion.

Or contention. :mrgreen:
 

rickf

Well-known member
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Location
Pemberton, N.J.
This is true and I was not trying to come across as an a** but when people say "I can get this a lot cheaper that the right one" that is usually a red flag. If you want to go the push button route you can go with a constant duty solenoid and a button. Do not use a Ford starter relay, they were not made for that and even on Ford starters they had a bad habit of sticking on. I use a button on mine and I just hooked it up as Warthog said earlier. Be sure change the plugs if you do that though because the 11G's are only designed to stay on for very short periods and will swell and short out quickly.
 

D10Blazer

Member
36
17
8
Location
Santa Monica
Problem fixed burnt glow plug relay and glow plugs, total cost for repair $100 knowledge learned priceless. NOTE do not wire anything to the glow plug relay.
 
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