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no start / will start with a sniff of either

junkyardog

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i just got this 86 cucv 1008. it sat 2 years. i did dump some fresh fuel in it and changed the filter. it will start on either and run good. when you shut it off and let it sit 1/2 hour it wont start. could it be glow plugs. it is 90 degrees today would it need them that quick. how do i check them. could it be its loosing its prime. the pump filled the new filter when i put it onso the pump works fine.it runs good when its running. no smoke only a little when you floor it quick. i would like to make this a driver so any help would be helpfull. thanks
 

Keith_J

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Ether is really bad for these engines. Yes, it could be the glow plugs.

Easiest way to tell is to measure the resistance of each, bad plugs will have much higher to infinite resistance. Good plugs will have resistance in the 12-18 ohm range.

Most indirect injected engines need glow plugs. They have higher compression ratios and ether tends to damage the rings, causing greater blow-by which further reduces the ease of starting.
 

donalloy1

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Martinez Ca
Have heard to avoid Starting Fluid like Plague with this family of vehicles!

Sounds like time to start troubleshooting.

After 1/2 hr in 90 degree heat. It should start right up?

Always start with easy fixes and work your way to harder ones if possible. Those simple fundimentals win everytime. Just my .02
 

GPrez

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If your glow plugs were working correctly the ether might have done some serious damage. If it were me and I didn't know the accurate history of the truck I would replace the glow plugs, relay, control card, and temperature sensor. Less than $200 in parts and then you know your good. I would consider the resistor bank bypass also.
 

GreggVA

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BLUF: Changed my glow plug relay (NAPA ST-85) and did Doghead mod

Mine did something very similar. It would start when it had not been run (wait light comes on, 1/2 pedal depressed). I would drive it around and go to the store and it would sit for a while and would not start when I came back. The WAIT light did not come on as the engine was warm and I would crank but no starting. I would let it sit for 5-6 hours until the engine was cold, the WAIT light would come on and it would start again.

I changed the glow plug relay and did the Doghead starter relay modification and this seems to have fixed the issue.
 

doghead

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Are you familiar with military tech manuals?
 

Danl

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Danl M915A1

come on guys keep it simpal, you are loseing the prime there is a small leak in the fuel system. it could the new fuel filter is not tight enought, or some dirt on the seat of the filter. put a little compress air in the fuel tank and look for for a small fuel leak frist. pretty sure its a leak suking in air. glow plug on a cold motor warm motor loseing the prime
 

edpdx

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I agree with DANL. I had something similar happening in my Blazer and saw a pattern of it happening whenever I parked for very long facing uphill. When I backed in and faced downhill I never had the problem. Months later when changing in new glow plugs I still had this problem. A question here on this forum led me to check all the fuel lines- no small task. I lucked out almost immediately and found a slit in the fuel line (rubber) that goes from the fuel pump to the IP- hope that right. FIXED.

It can be brutal checking for a fuel leak; but there is lots of advice on this forum on where to start and how to proceed- the TM will help.
 

Skinny

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Put new plugs in, takes like 20 minutes, costs about 70 bucks. At least you know you have new plugs.
After you add the extra time for taking out the swollen ones:grin:

Good advice, unknown plugs...not even worth while trying to trouble shoot further until you know they came out of a brand new box.

My M1031 had massive issues with starting when I first got it. Even with bad plugs, it would start on a hot day. I would be surprised that yours wouldn't do something in that kind of heat with malfunctioning plugs. I would vote for a fuel issue. Don't get me wrong, you should replace the glow system components that were mentioned above unless you like walking for some reason.

Are you getting any puffs of smoke when cranking? When my plugs didn't work, it would puff gray smoke on both pipes indicating it wasn't a fuel issue. That may narrow it down.

Either way, stay off the ether:whistle:
 

sandcobra164

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I would only use ether if I disabled the glow plugs. My truck fried what was left of it's glow plugs on the way to a parade one morning when I used either. The damage was 3 shattered glow plugs that probably were working up until the point the ether hit the tip. I got off easy. Fuel leaks on a Diesel can be hard to find. I prefer to pressurize the tank but only to about 2-3 psi MAX. That will show a leak pretty quickly even though it doesn't sound like much pressure at all. I've got 2 CUCV's at work that were doing the same thing. On 1, we found a cracked rubber line between the fuel pump and the IP. On the other, we found a cracked cartridge filter base so we plumbed in a HMMWV filter and base. They both do much better now.
 

GPrez

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After you add the extra time for taking out the swollen ones:grin:

Good advice, unknown plugs...not even worth while trying to trouble shoot further until you know they came out of a brand new box.

Either way, stay off the ether:whistle:
You need to be sure your not going to burn out a new set before just replacing the plugs. I installed a new set on my M1009 only to burn them out again because they were staying energized. Check and be sure they at powering up and turning off after the warm up period.
 

Skinny

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Roger that!

I keep a close watch on my voltage gauge when I think my GP's are on. I also confirm the loud clunk from the solenoid turning off.

Will AC60's prevent swollen tips if the solenoid stays on for whatever reason? I had Wellmans which were all seized up.
 
91
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Redmond, Oregon
If the starter is wearing down it will be hard to start. I ran through all of the trouble shooting and was left with a slow starter. If your starter is not turning the engine at or above a 100 RPMS it will not start well or at all.
 

wallew

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First off, the fuel filter BACKING PLATE is known to leak air, allowing the fuel to go back into the tank. Hence the 'hard starting' condition.

A simple fix is add in an electric fuel pump. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/89656-questions-those-have-done-electric-fuel-pump-mod.html - see post #3.

Also, regarding the glow plugs. INSPECT THEM. Make sure they do not have oil on the contacts - half of mine did. A q-tip and a paper towel and about fifteen minutes cleaned them right up.

That resolved the issue of glow plugs - for me.

And 'starter fluid' IE ETHER, used judiciously (small spurts - don't just SPRAY AND SPRAY AND SPRAY) can be a valuable tool in chasing down a fuel delivery problem. Again - used SPARINGLY it can make a difference. Mind the fact that you are heating the cylinder with the glow plug system. And you are spraying a combustible fluid INTO the cylinder so bad things CAN happen, though if you are very careful, you can use it. I keep a can in each vehicle, just in case.

Other than that, give your fuel lines a close inspection. That may reveal what your problem is.
 
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Colo.
I would not touch a CUCV with ether. Ever. Use something much less volatile. Heck, just throw a bunch of diesel down the throat, or use WD40.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Also, regarding the glow plugs. INSPECT THEM. Make sure they do not have oil on the contacts - half of mine did. A q-tip and a paper towel and about fifteen minutes cleaned them right up.

Ether works well to clean oil off of contacts. Leaves no residue.

Just make sure you don't mix ether and things that make sparks! :D
 
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