no third gear/drive

[AllenEM]

ok so I have a M1009 with bad engine I don't know anything about the rest of the truck I looks fair (may have been a parts truck) well I want to get it running so I find I donor truck with good engine bad transmission no drive that ok I believe the one in the blazer is good (PO said the truck run also). so I put the engine and axles in the blazer from the donor m1008 and it runs now and moves. Has rev, 1st and 2nd but no drive (what are the odds both trucks would have the same problem? I have checked the vacuum pump it has 25" of vacuum I have vacuum to the mod. valve. I guess my next is to change the filter and fluid (the fluid looks new) and the mod. valve.

What else could I be missing?

 

[armytruck63]

Misadjusted shift linkage perhaps?

 

[AllenEM]

Misadjusted shift linkage perhaps?

I have looked at that also

 

[Cucvnut]

with no drive sounds like the transmission is due for a rebuild.

 

[Dave Kay]

Check to see if there is a wire plugged into the LEFT side of the trans.

 

[AllenEM]

Check to see if there is a wire plugged into the LEFT side of the trans.

there is.

I talked with a transmission guy he said time to rebuild, third gear clutches are out.

Oh well it's only money ( oh yea I don't have any)

 

[Dave Kay]

Forget the trans rebuild for a minute; go unplug that wire and test drive. It may be the solenoid inside the trans is bad--- common problem and easy fix.

And keep in mind that ALL transmission guys are going to tell you it needs rebuilding, even if it doesn't need it. So you shoud do some simple troubleshooting before you fork over hard earned cash.

 

[AllenEM]

I will try that tonight when I get home from work
thanks Dave

 

[AllenEM]

Forget the trans rebuild for a minute; go unplug that wire and test drive. It may be the solenoid inside the trans is bad--- common problem and easy fix.

And keep in mind that ALL transmission guys are going to tell you it needs rebuilding, even if it doesn't need it. So you shoud do some simple troubleshooting before you fork over hard earned cash.

Will I finally got to check it with the plug unplugged and it has third gear. so do I need to replace the switch or what.

 

[WARWAG]

Also replace all of your vacuum lines. Especially the small one under the truck that goes from the hard line to the trans. Its about 2" long. My very late Hard shifting problem for 3rd gear was a factory defective hard line that was stretched and had a very long but slight tapper to it. I wasnt getting a good seal and that caused my trans to shift very late and HARD. My fix was about .10 cents. Good Luck. Also, Dave Kay is correct. Every Transmission shop will tell you, you need a rebuild when you say theres no third gear.

 

[natem]

Forget the trans rebuild for a minute; go unplug that wire and test drive. It may be the solenoid inside the trans is bad--- common problem and easy fix.

And keep in mind that ALL transmission guys are going to tell you it needs rebuilding, even if it doesn't need it. So you shoud do some simple troubleshooting before you fork over hard earned cash.

Another fine example of how outstanding this site is, well done .

Nate

 

[WARWAG]

I agree!

 

[hre513]

Also replace all of your vacuum lines. Especially the small one under the truck that goes from the hard line to the trans. Its about 2" long. My very late Hard shifting problem for 3rd gear was a factory defective hard line that was stretched and had a very long but slight tapper to it. I wasnt getting a good seal and that caused my trans to shift very late and HARD. My fix was about .10 cents. Good Luck. Also, Dave Kay is correct. Every Transmission shop will tell you, you need a rebuild when you say theres no third gear.

Another fine example of how outstanding this site is, well done .

Nate

Will I finally got to check it with the plug unplugged and it has third gear. so do I need to replace the switch or what.

Your downshift solenoid could be bad or you could just need to adjust the switch above the accelerator pedal, or it could be bad.

 

[harbordr]

Also replace all of your vacuum lines. Especially the small one under the truck that goes from the hard line to the trans. Its about 2" long. My very late Hard shifting problem for 3rd gear was a factory defective hard line that was stretched and had a very long but slight tapper to it. I wasnt getting a good seal and that caused my trans to shift very late and HARD. My fix was about .10 cents. Good Luck. Also, Dave Kay is correct. Every Transmission shop will tell you, you need a rebuild when you say theres no third gear.

I had the same 'no 3d' problem and changed all the rubber vacuum lines per the -20 trouble shooting. Got 3d gear so that worked. But the comments on high rpm shifting and what I call a pounding shift are the new problem.

Has anyone played with the vacuum valve on the IP. Seems this would change the **** point?

 

[Warthog]

Has anyone played with the vacuum valve on the IP. Seems this would change the **** point?

There has been countless post on the vacuum valve along with pictures.

There are sections of the TMs that cover the testing and adjustment of the valve. The manual talks about a $150 tool to set it. I just made my own out of a piece of wood. I posted a "How To" on the adjustment. I can't link it from my phone

***** EDIT *****

Here is the link to the Vacuum Valve Adjustment

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/50568-cucv-throttle-vacuum-valve-adjustment.html

 

[Dave Kay]

Will I finally got to check it with the plug unplugged and it has third gear. so do I need to replace the switch or what.

Glad to hear it worked! Transmission guys know this trick but they won't tell you 'cause they're all rip-ff con-artists!

And yes, you should replace that solenoid because it probably shifts pretty hard, like slam-shifting, right? Not good for trans nor beast. It's not that expensive or difficult either, probably get it at NAPA--- P.N. TKS 100, less than $20. Then just do a simple trans filter/fluid change. You will see the switch located right inside the trans body, an easy one-bolt R&R. You may also want to do a continuity check on the wire plug-in located OUTSIDE of trans-body on the driver's side. (where that wire plugged in) If it's bad too then better replace now because your whole fiter fluid change will then have to be done over again to access that connector.
Good luck!

 

[Dave Kay]

I had the same 'no 3d' problem and changed all the rubber vacuum lines per the -20 trouble shooting. Got 3d gear so that worked. But the comments on high rpm shifting and what I call a pounding shift are the new problem.

Has anyone played with the vacuum valve on the IP. Seems this would change the **** point?

That fore mentioned solenoid switch governs shift speed and smoothness. You don't mention changing fluid/filter lately and all trannys luv you when you do that. So if it's shifting hard and at high RPM, do a fluid/filter change and replace that solenoid switch while you're in there, then see what that gives you.

 

[AllenEM]

That fore mentioned solenoid switch governs shift speed and smoothness. You don't mention changing fluid/filter lately and all trannys luv you when you do that. So if it's shifting hard and at high RPM, do a fluid/filter change and replace that solenoid switch while you're in there, then see what that gives you.

I want to thank everyone who helped me trouble shoot this problem I now have a transmission that shifts just fine. about $50 in parts and 1.5 labor and we are up and running.

Now all I have left to fix is no heater, no wipers, and relocate the rear shock mounts on the 14 bolt.

 

[AllenEM]

oh yea and do a pickup truck tail gate conversion and half top.

 

[Warthog]

I want to thank everyone who helped me trouble shoot this problem I now have a transmission that shifts just fine. about $50 in parts and 1.5 labor and we are up and running.

Now all I have left to fix is no heater, no wipers, and relocate the rear shock mounts on the 14 bolt.

Glad you got it fixed without a $500+ rebuild.

So what was your solution to the shift issue?