I surfaced the fly-wheel, replaced complete clutch, changed transmission, and now I hear clanking or clattering when pushing the clutch pedal in. Can't tell if it's coming from the transmission, or the rest of the drive-train. I have the tunnel cover off when listening. Transmission appeared new inside, and shifts very well.
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Noise in drive-train
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gimpyrobb
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Try taking out the short shaft and see if the noise is still there.
m816
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I'd check the Jack shaft. Lube it up well first and watch it with the tunnel off and the engine running as you go around the block. I'm not sure how you could put the clutch in backwards and still get the whole thing back together so I would skip right to the Jack saft.
hemichallenger
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If it does it when you are not moving it has to be the in the clutch presure plate or throw out bearing. When you hold the pedal down the input shaft should not turn.
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throw out bearing
nk14zp
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I wrote this in a hurry, so I will try again. Also, thanks to all for trying to help. I've put clutches in the M35 before, so I don't think I have the disc in backwards and all the clutch parts are new. I'm driving forward, or in reverse, about 100 ft. on hard pan road, using 1st and 2nd. In between shifts, with the pedal in, coasting, is when the clanking sound happens. The tunnel is off so I can see the short shaft. Also I feel a bouncing forwards or backwards and see it reflected in the short shaft rotation. I have checked the short shaft with the trany in neutral and the transfer case in gear and there appears to be minimal slop and the u joints appear tight. There in no noise idling in neutral or with the pedal down in neutral. The other shafts I have not checked yet and the front shaft is not turning with because of the hubs. The trany looked like new when installed. Also I do not remember the noise before. I have locking hubs on the front and I tried it with them free and locked. The e brake was sticking, but is free now. No matter what I do, it's the same story. 2 questions, 1) Could it be pedal adjustment? 2) The disc I put in, does not have the springs around the splined hub, it's riveted. Are they like shock absorbers? That's about it. Thanks!
gimpyrobb
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The springs could be considered like shock absorbers in that situation. I doubt it would be pedal adjustment. Did you check the T/O bearing for slop or did you say that was new? Did you grease it? I think if I were you, since the trans cover is off, I would PULL THE SHORT SHAFT and see what happens.
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Is there anything loose in the parking brake assy that might be chattering when the drive train unloads as you coast?
Try putting the transfer case in neutral with the clutch pedal pushed in while you are coasting and see if the noise stops. If the transfer case is in neutral and the clutch pedal is pushed in, the clutch and transmission isn't turning.
Try putting the transfer case in neutral with the clutch pedal pushed in while you are coasting and see if the noise stops. If the transfer case is in neutral and the clutch pedal is pushed in, the clutch and transmission isn't turning.
Hello, the t/o bearing is new and greased. I ran the engine with the trany bolted up without the short shaft in first, just to make sure there was no strange noise's before finishing. Standing still with everything running and installed, there is no noise. It's when I am coasting between shifts. I will try shifting the transfer case out of gear while rolling and see if it goes away. It's like the brakes are pulsing, on and off in between shifts which causes a forward/rearward bouncing effect accompanied by clank. The noise sounds like it is running the complete length of the drive train. I keep thinking about the service brakes, E brake, U joints and maybe a bad transfer case. I still think the trany is good because of prior inspection before installation. I'll keep looking.
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Seems as if you eliminated the first suggestions already. My two cents would be to include the transfer case in the rule-out (disconnect shaft or shafts if you do not have front lockouts) and check the u-joints next.
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Maybe the E-brake is... if pulses are the same frequency as the rear drive shaft turning? Adjusted too tight? ... and the drum not perfectly even or round ?
You said you serviced the E-brake. Have you tried to apply it to a more or lesser extent, while rolling, and how it influences the noise?
G.
Hello, I tried all of the suggestions I received and a few other things. Backed off the E brake, checked shafts and universals and I still have the noise and I don't like the sound of it. Tomorrow I drop the trany and check my clutch/installation and see if I can find a problem in the transmission. If a flywheel is not surfaced correctly, could that cause a problem? Got to figure this out. Thanks!
rolling18
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here is my 2 cents and experience with that sound.. I believe the posters who mentioned the emergency brake assembly are correct. I also had a clunking dinging sound similar to a bell but only when driving in motion.. I found if I hit the emergency brake drum with a to0l it was the same sound!
There is a boltt on top of the emergency brake assembly near the cable I had to tighten it down quite a bit and the ringing slash banging sound gradually went away until it was tight.. This nut seems to take up the slack or free space and stop the emergency brake from hitting the bell somehow but it got rid of the noise that bolt is very hard to get too.. I don't know what it's called or have any manual to reference now.... But it would not be the e brake adjustment it is a boat that goes to the brake shoe it self from laying under the vehicle it would be running up and down with the bull head against the brake caliper sorry for the long post I don't know how else to describe it.. But it made a horrible racket when your driving down the road
hemichallenger
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If the flywheel was not done right it will only cause the clutch not to engage without grabing. It should not make a noise. Is this a air shift transfer case or sprauge?
Sorry for not getting back to everyone. I found the problem to be the clutch disc. The one I had in had no springs around the hub. The new one does. Problem solved, as I guessed they kind of act like a shock absorber. This is a air shift truck. The e-brake may have been contributing also. I still need to do final adj. on it. Thanks for everyones help.
OH, I might add that the clanking noise/bell noise is similar to hitting the e-brake drum or a drive shaft. It transfers thoroughout the entire drivetrain and can be very confusing. Had me thinking trany, transfercase or other major components. My clanking must have come from the wind up of the drivetrain/torque on system which the springs on the disc help eliminate. This is just my deduction. Thanks again!!!!
gimpyrobb
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At least you followed up with final info, many do not.