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Noob with a condition H question

autobon7

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Hi all......never bought from GL before so new to everything. Was looking on the local craigslist and a fellow was selling 2 M1101s that looked never used but he wanted $1300 each.....which lead me to searching and finally hear. After looking through GL and finding some M1101s but the condition on all are listed as H. Posted on a dif forum and all said to avoid unless I was buying for scrap. Whats the scoop? Any and all advice is most certainly appreciated. Btw, It is too far for me to preview. Thanks in advance
 
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porkysplace

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Condition codes don't mean a thing , the only way to know what your bidding is to inspect in person.
There are several thread at the bottom of the page under similar threads to read through.
 

Recovry4x4

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Welcome to Steel Soldiers. You will find a wealth of information here. Would you please take a moment to update your location to at least your state of residence. It helps a bunch with logistics and help for members and is one of the site requirements. Again, welcome aboard!
 

MWMULES

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If the Military is getting rid of something , sometimes they code it H as it is no longer in inventory but other times it is because it is broke.

:ditto: to what Recovry4x4 said we like to know which state you reside in.
 
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autobon7

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Just read through the link that hndrsonj provided and it seems there is no rhyme or reason behind these codes. I cannot inspect before auction end which sucks but maybe I better hold off for now. It is a 3 hour drive one way and would stink to 12 hours drive total (if I won). Guess it would not be good either if I didn't preview and showed up only to find a trailer that is not road worthy.
 

doghead

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The advice about scrap price was good advice(all things considered).
 

quickfarms

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If you do not want to pay retail you have to play the GL game.

Either inspect the item, pay scrap price or just roll the dice. How does a three hour drive end up being a twelve hour recovery?

If you buy a trailer from GL assume the tires will be flat and the lights do not work.

If I tow a trailer off the base I have tow lights and the CO2 tank with me. I also have an alternate plan in case there are issues with the trailer such as bad bearings or sticking brakes.
 

swiss

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If you are new to the game you have 2 options, jump in with both feet and do the GL route. Long term it will cost you more than just the trailer as that is just the way the hobby is. If you want an M1101 trailer then $1300 is not to bad, you get to see it and check it out. There are a ton of them now out there so if you pay attention you can find one maybe a bit cheaper. GL is not to be taken lightly but once you get it figured out it can be rewarding and so so frustrating.

Check out the classified on this site. In addition there is a great tan one I know of for $900.00 without top or bows but in good condition. I would consider going retail rate now to be 900-1500. I have seen the higher priced also.

Ultimately I would buy a M101A2 or A3 versus the 1101. Much better trailer. I have both and the 101 hands down is the better trailer.
 
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Bear Creek PA
A LOT of times the Government calls some thing SCRAP that is not really scrap ! I bought so many trucks and pieces of equipment that were marked as scrap. Most drove right home with no problems. 9 times out of ten they are calling it scrap to get rid of it and assume no liability for its being mis described. I bought two utility trucks, both were listed as parts missing not running. Jump started both and drove them home, no problems. But its always best to inspect things in person !!!!
 

autobon7

New member
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Alton, IL
Ultimately I would buy a M101A2 or A3 versus the 1101. Much better trailer. I have both and the 101 hands down is the better trailer.[/QUOTE]

What makes it a better trailer? I am totally new to this so all opinions are appreciated. Additionally......how hard to find bows and proper tarp and how much?
 
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