Odd wire issue

[Harijan]

So far I have been able to find all my answers using searches. This forum is an amazing place. Thank you to all of you who have made it what it is.
I ran into a problem this week.
Background: M1009 – 1985, owned about 3 months. I bought directly from GL out of Nellis. I had it towed to a local diesel mechanic. I also paid him to replace the starter since I don’t live in Vegas, and it was going to cost less to get the starter replaced and fly 1-way than it was to tow the vehicle to Phx. I told the mechanic he needed to put in a 24 volt starter. He didn’t listen.
I made it to Phoenix and the starter even lasted the first 2 months. Now, the starter is blown and I have all the symptoms consistent with the well-documented Pre-Doghead Relay Disease. I rebuilt the starter, did the Doghead relay fix, and started cleaning/lubing the electrical connections starting with the battery cables and working my way to the wire harness.
That is when I came across this issue in the photos. A wire (not sure which one yet) had shorted so badly that the wire itself had severed. I have seen a few shorts in my day, but never mid-wire, they have always been at a connection or a splice.

So my two questions are:
1. What could be wrong to cause a short mid-wire?
2. Can I cut-n-crimp the wire into a new connection, or do I need to pull the whole wire out of the bundle and replace it?

Other symptoms that I think are consistent with Doghead Relay fix:
1. Battery closest to the grill doesn’t hold a charge even though the battery is less than 3 months old.
2. Glow plug indicators on the dash are not functioning properly
3. No matter how long the glow plugs warm, it takes several tries to start.

 

[Jersey4x4]

Looks like a fuse link. Cut it out and replace it with the same AWG fuse link. I think that is the in from the generator light on the dash. Will have to look at the TM to be sure

So far I have been able to find all my answers using searches. This forum is an amazing place. Thank you to all of you who have made it what it is.
I ran into a problem this week.
Background: M1009 – 1985, owned about 3 months. I bought directly from GL out of Nellis. I had it towed to a local diesel mechanic. I also paid him to replace the starter since I don’t live in Vegas, and it was going to cost less to get the starter replaced and fly 1-way than it was to tow the vehicle to Phx. I told the mechanic he needed to put in a 24 volt starter. He didn’t listen.
I made it to Phoenix and the starter even lasted the first 2 months. Now, the starter is blown and I have all the symptoms consistent with the well-documented Pre-Doghead Relay Disease. I rebuilt the starter, did the Doghead relay fix, and started cleaning/lubing the electrical connections starting with the battery cables and working my way to the wire harness.
That is when I came across this issue in the photos. A wire (not sure which one yet) had shorted so badly that the wire itself had severed. I have seen a few shorts in my day, but never mid-wire, they have always been at a connection or a splice.

So my two questions are:
1. What could be wrong to cause a short mid-wire?
2. Can I cut-n-crimp the wire into a new connection, or do I need to pull the whole wire out of the bundle and replace it?

Other symptoms that I think are consistent with Doghead Relay fix:
1. Battery closest to the grill doesn’t hold a charge even though the battery is less than 3 months old.
2. Glow plug indicators on the dash are not functioning properly
3. No matter how long the glow plugs warm, it takes several tries to start.

 

[southdave]

That is the wire from your alt. and source of your charging and starting issue. check out the follwing pic, save them on my desk top and save me from blowing the dang thing up..

 

[Harijan]

Beautiful. Thank you for those clear instructions. Going to take care of this tomorrow. Hopefully, I am competent enough to make a go of it.

 

[mistaken1]

Please keep in mind that the picture of the relay is showing 12V at the top power post. That is only if you have done a 12V glow plug conversion.

In a stock system that top post will show 24V until there is current flow through the resistor on the firewall to the glow plugs. Then the voltage should drop to something close to 12V but only as long as the glow plugs and the relay are all working correctly. The troubleshooting pages of the TMs show what voltage readings are acceptable.

Search "voltage divider" in the CUCV forum for more details on how the resistor operates in a stock system.

Antennaclimber among others here on this site are manufacturing and selling new glow plug cards. I believe a new card with properly functioning sensors is much better than a manual button.