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Oil filter adapter

TommyG45

Member
210
2
18
Location
Cleveland Ohio
Has anyone had any long term experience with the oil filter adapter such as those listed in the classifides on SS. I was looking at filter replacements also, looks like a complete kit cost around 100 bucks from Memphis - includes fuel filter also. I have to believe for the price of the adapter, and the cheaper cost of the Napa filters, it has to be a cost effective value prop over time. Has anyone been running these?
 

TommyG45

Member
210
2
18
Location
Cleveland Ohio
Ren,

No doubt, My deuce arrives today, as I go through it and change out all the fluids, This is going to be the first mod I make. There were a few threads on the site concerning the modification, and it peaked my interest due in part to it's simplicity. Thanks for the reply.
 

SasquatchSanta

New member
1,177
18
0
Location
Northern Minnesota
I just read through the two threads (links) above and have a few comments.

I've pretty much ran the rack in this area. I've installed Builder77s 1970XE 5-Micron filters plus an Amsoil by-pass filter (see the black filter on the firewall), plus a 24 volt Bendix pump that pre-lubes the engine.

I'm in a unique climate situation up here in Northern Minnesota. Cold weather is a challenge therefore I elected not to go with the Jatonka style check valve system. My fears may be unfounded but I have concerns about prolonged by-passing during cold morning startups caused by cold oil trapped in the filters. I also fear the pre-lube pump would have trouble clearing the cold oil from the full filters on zero mornings. In warmer climates I'd say Jatonka's system, linked with the Amsoil bypass filter is the way to go.

For the ultimate in protection I've also installed a pre-lubber along with a 150W and 450W oil pan heater pads on the bottom of the oil pan. The 150 watt pad will keep the oil warm if it is plugged in all the time but the 450 is nice to have for a quick shot if the truck hasn't been plugged on overnight or if I'm relaying on the generator to start it up. I also have 600 watt front and read freeze plug block heaters that I use the same way --- one for constant and both as an added quick boost.

In winter I don't like to run the pre-lube pump without the oil being warmed. It takes about 30 seconds for the pump to build oil pressure in the summer and about a minute in the winter (cold starts) with at least one oil pan heater plugged in.

All in all, I may be over killing the problem but I feel it's the ultimate solution. Since installing the new LDS engine it has never been dry started. Having said this, installing the pre-lubber was a pain in the butt --- even with the engine out. The heater was modified and mounted up under the dash and the plumbing for the pump was a pain. In warm weather the Jatonka solution is a lot simpler. Sometimes you can overkill a problem.

Oh yeah --- I've also got three oil gauges. One between the pre-lube pump and the 1970XEs, one after the 1970XEs and one at the turbo (end of oil galley). It's interesting to watch the gauges respond to the pre-lube pump. With the oil temp gauge which I felt necessary to have then running the electric fan and not the water pump fan, I've got a good window on the world.

There has been a LOT written about this. I hope this helps shake-out the subject.
 

Attachments

alphadeltaromeo

Active member
1,901
3
38
Location
Alto, GA
Ernie - thanks for posting all those pics and the description of what you've done. I like the mods thus far. Whatcha think of the bypass system now that you've had it on there for some time?

Andy
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
I just like the gear shifter boot. I like the heat in the winter from the motor but in the summer, 130+ comming in gets rather warm. Anyone have one of the boots thay want to send me?

"I've installed Builder77s 1970XE 5-Micron filters" Does this use the same base as JA Tonka but with a filter w/o the valve?
 

SasquatchSanta

New member
1,177
18
0
Location
Northern Minnesota
alphadeltaromeo wrote:

Whatcha think of the bypass system now that you've had it on there for some time?
I've only got about 400 miles on the new motor BUT --- believe it or not, I can still see the dipstick through the oil when I check it. With a diesel this is pretty much undeard of. Between Builder77s 5-micron filters and the Amsoil bypass the system is getting the job done. Also ... Thks for the kind words.

sermis wrote:

I just like the gear shifter boot. I like the heat in the winter from the motor but in the summer, 130+ comming in gets rather warm. Anyone have one of the boots thay want to send me?

"I've installed Builder77s 1970XE 5-Micron filters" Does this use the same base as JA Tonka but with a filter w/o the valve?
I "think" I got the gear shift boot from John Tennis (Jatonka). The under dash heater is used for defrosters only. I installed another heater under the passenger seat for the cab (see attached picture). I installed valves so I can shut the water off both heaters in the summer.

I'm almost certain that Builder77s and Jatonka's filter bases are different.
 

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grobinson2

New member
59
0
0
Location
Peach Bottom, PA
Cost

I am sorry for what I am sure is an incredibly stupid question but I have my little M35A2 with stock everything although it was redone by Uncle Sam in 2005. What am I looking at cost wise to put the 5micron filters on it along with the preluber?

Thanks,
Glenn
 

SasquatchSanta

New member
1,177
18
0
Location
Northern Minnesota
RE: Cost

There's nothing stupid about your questions.

Builder77s and Jatonka's filter systems are listed in the classifieds. You can get current prices there.

As for the pre-lube system, that's a different story. Unless you can find a heavy duty 24 volt system you'll have to pretty much engineer it yourself.

I "think" I paid $125.00 for my 24V Bendix pump from McDonalds Trading Post, Plainview Tx Tel: 806 296 9239. Unfortunately it doesn't stop with the price of the pump. I installed the pre-lube system while changing an engine so, though still a PITA it was relatively easy. We pulled the pan and installed a pickup port for the pump. A one way valve was installed between the motor and the pump --- cost approx $40.00. Add a solanoid, switch, cables etc., and it's easy to get $300.00 tied up in the pump system. There are several threads on this website and have posted quite a few pictures.
 
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