Ongoing Log Of My 1987 HMMWV

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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Well, she arrived. I was told she was a restored model, but I think that was a little lipstick (although she is NOT a pig).

The good:

Straight frame, good body, X-doors that are intact, three good tires and one very acceptable tire.
Engine sounds great and pulls hard...6.2L
Tranny seems OK but I haven't had her on the road yet.
Turret seems OK, but have yet to inspect closely.
Glowplugs work well at 20 Fahrenheit. Glowplug indicator light works.
E-brake works well enough
Interior is clean and free of rips and other defects.

The questionable:

No gauges work
Lights (low/highbeam) don't turn on
Hazzards don't operate
Horn doesn't blow
Signal switch does not operate and indicator lights do not turn on or flash
Power steering pump that was supposedly new was whining with car standing still and turning right/left

So now I guess I can spend my spring recess with the kids reading FSM's and beginning the journey.

Over-all I'm happy with the vehicle and I'm super happy that she is a slantback. I always wanted one.

Before any of my modification projects however, I will need to tackle electrics and possible grounding issues.Most likely I will order the grounding kit I have seen in other posts for $70 as well as reground the system and use dielectric or some other substance to retard future grounding issues.

Also time to troll all the threads I see about lights and blinkers and such.

Then I guess I will need to replace glowplugs (which are the best that don't swell????), and consider rebuilding bearings and such in the axles, and of course look at brake pads for wear.

I guess I'll post a few threads later next week regarding all the issues and perhaps I'll even whine and complain a little bit.

In the mean time I'm pretty happy with finally having the vehicle here.

I'll post a few pics of the vehicle below :

HMMVV Turtleback.jpgfront right.jpgrear right.jpgrear left.jpgs-l502.jpgs-l500.jpgs-l503.jpgs-l504.jpgs-l506.jpgs-l505.jpg
 
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Action

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Looks nice.
I see the former owner dropped a paint bomb on the inside...ebrake handle, horn button, shifter assembly, etc.
 

JAGWAH

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Congrats on the score and welcome from San Diego! She looks really clean and I love the slantback. Awesome.

As I'm about two weeks ahead of you as far as ownership, it looks like you got a good one. The better seats are certainly an upgrade.

I don't see any insulation around the drives side foot well. I bet it gets a bit toasty in that area. You may want to add that to your short list of purchases...

Chris.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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BravoJ... Thanks!

Action... Yeah, and I will eventually have to undo all that but for now electrics are priority. Thanks.

JAGWAH... Thanks and good luck with yours! Cool screen-name.

juanprado... Agreed. I think I might start with just looking to see if anything was attached to the electrical harness or if this was just a quick gauge swap without connections. Then I agree 100% that grounding issues might be to blame and I agree 100% that the grounding kit mentioned in the top stickies is a solid idea. Nothing is more annoying than chasing electrical gremlins that turn out to be simple ground issues. Thanks!

Thanks guys.

T
 

linhster

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Delray Beach/FL
Well, she arrived. I was told she was a restored model, but I think that was a little lipstick (although she is NOT a pig).
No gauges work
Lights (low/highbeam) don't turn on
Hazzards don't operate
Horn doesn't blow
Signal switch does not operate and indicator lights do not turn on or flash
Power steering pump that was supposedly new was whining with car standing still and turning right/left
Hard to imagine that the electrical system is in that much of disarray. I would verified that the light switch is working correctly. It seems that you been doing a lot of homework on the humvee but just to rule out the simple stuff, read up on the operation of that switch. They are not intuitive (speaking from personal experience).

Now that it's in front of you. Try to envision a turbo in that setup.
 

jeffy777

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She looks great! Looks as good as new. Those little problems you will easily overcome. :) Great Job..... I know this is wrong... but.... how much? it looks so good so I am figuring 17-25.
 

Bulldogger

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There is a ground wire from the back of the instrument cluster that connects to the firewall near the fuel filter, and another ground from the harness on that side. Check them both. Your gauges might not be properly mounted either, one of mine was not mounted properly in back, for example. The bolt on my ground wire lug at the firewall is threaded on both sides, so one side can be dead nuts tight and the other still loose. Yes, that interior nut is VERY hard to reach and a PITA to tighten, but then all my gauges worked fine! To tighten the other, take off the doghouse, it's near the left side edge, about halfway up. Look for the ground wire coming from the harness near the left rear head corner.

Ditto on check the mains light switch too. That's a big screwed on multi-pin connector on the back of the light control box. The boxes can be temperamental on the inside too, could try jiggling the levers a bit to find a better connection. My headlights blink out sometimes if I have the service drive lever jammed all the way clockwise, but are fine if I remember to take the slack off it after switching into the Serv Drive position.

Welcome to the club!

Bulldogger
 

bikeman

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Hard to imagine that the electrical system is in that much of disarray. I would verified that the light switch is working correctly. It seems that you been doing a lot of homework on the humvee but just to rule out the simple stuff, read up on the operation of that switch. They are not intuitive (speaking from personal experience).
agreed. Are you SURE you're operating the switch correctly? This would be my first look. Find a known good switch and swap, and see how many problems stay or go away.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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There is a ground wire from the back of the instrument cluster that connects to the firewall near the fuel filter, and another ground from the harness on that side. Check them both. Your gauges might not be properly mounted either, one of mine was not mounted properly in back, for example. The bolt on my ground wire lug at the firewall is threaded on both sides, so one side can be dead nuts tight and the other still loose. Yes, that interior nut is VERY hard to reach and a PITA to tighten, but then all my gauges worked fine! To tighten the other, take off the doghouse, it's near the left side edge, about halfway up. Look for the ground wire coming from the harness near the left rear head corner.

Ditto on check the mains light switch too. That's a big screwed on multi-pin connector on the back of the light control box. The boxes can be temperamental on the inside too, could try jiggling the levers a bit to find a better connection. My headlights blink out sometimes if I have the service drive lever jammed all the way clockwise, but are fine if I remember to take the slack off it after switching into the Serv Drive position.

Welcome to the club!

Bulldogger
Loose wires tightenned and now front lights operate, but I also needed to learn some basics about how to operate switch properly. Read a few posts and voila... LET THERE BE LIGHT (and flashers/blinkers). Still need to learn about the switch though. Years of college, medical school and residency and yet almost defeated by the switch. THANKS for getting me motivated to read about switch operations.

agreed. Are you SURE you're operating the switch correctly? This would be my first look. Find a known good switch and swap, and see how many problems stay or go away.
I seem to recall something like "Harvard's Law" or "Yale's Law" (corollaries to Murphy's Law)... "IT WORKS BETTER WHEN YOU TURN IT ON". Also "Under the ideal conditions of temperature, pressure, and humidity... the machine will work as it **** pleases".

I read up a little and tightened a few loose connections and ... You guys were correct... Things are beginning to operate.


As Far as Jeffy777 "She looks great! Looks as good as new. Those little problems you will easily overcome. :smile: Great Job..... I know this is wrong... but.... how much? it looks so good so I am figuring 17-25."

Thanks for compliment. As far as all else... I could tell you, but then I'd have to .... LOL


As far as "One Patriot of Many's" most welcome offer/comments:

Oh Man, I'd trade my wife of 31 years for that........ ENVIOUS! Not just green but camo..... :wink:
Thanks man... Yeah, I love the way she looks!

But trading? It all depends. I'm fair game for a trade, but compared to this HMMWV, will she appreciate frequent fluid checks and changes, and grease jobs, and getting her tires rotated on a recurring basis? You know, the "full service with a smile".;) (just kidding)


The encouragement I received from members here is most appreciated and most motivating.

Now time to reground the system as per sticky note number 1

Then time to register and re-title the vehicle (already insured as per last of the sticky notes using Haggerty).

Then it will be time to test drive and begin to make a "To-Do list" prior to any mechanical and powertrain upgrades.



Best thing I did all day... took a moment out of my work day to go out and sit in my new-to-me slantback and just drink it all in. It was a great feeling and a moment of sanity in the middle of a hectic and at times irrational day.

THANKS ONE AND ALL.

Goodnight.
 
Last edited:

bikeman

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I seem to recall something like "Harvard's Law" or "Yale's Law" (corollaries to Murphy's Law)... "IT WORKS BETTER WHEN YOU TURN IT ON". Also "Under the ideal conditions of temperature, pressure, and humidity... the machine will work as it **** pleases".

I read up a little and tightened a few loose connections and ... You guys were correct... Things are beginning to operate.
Yeah, it tends to help...
 

79f250guy

Member
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6
Location
Macedon NY
Sharp truck, Looks like you have the deep fording kit also minus the intake and exhaust snorkel , I've go the opposite problem and wish I had the rest of it along with your slant back! and of course many more the wants never end lol very cool. Good luck and have fun with it!
 

erasedhammer

Member
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Location
Seattle
Whining in the power steering, or in the brakes (fully depressed) is most likely lack of fluid in the system. My system has a leak in it so it drains itself after a week, and it always comes back to whining. Try filling then driving it for a while and see if it stays fixed.

Well, she arrived. I was told she was a restored model, but I think that was a little lipstick (although she is NOT a pig).

The good:

Straight frame, good body, X-doors that are intact, three good tires and one very acceptable tire.
Engine sounds great and pulls hard...6.2L
Tranny seems OK but I haven't had her on the road yet.
Turret seems OK, but have yet to inspect closely.
Glowplugs work well at 20 Fahrenheit. Glowplug indicator light works.
E-brake works well enough
Interior is clean and free of rips and other defects.

The questionable:

No gauges work
Lights (low/highbeam) don't turn on
Hazzards don't operate
Horn doesn't blow
Signal switch does not operate and indicator lights do not turn on or flash
Power steering pump that was supposedly new was whining with car standing still and turning right/left

So now I guess I can spend my spring recess with the kids reading FSM's and beginning the journey.

Over-all I'm happy with the vehicle and I'm super happy that she is a slantback. I always wanted one.

Before any of my modification projects however, I will need to tackle electrics and possible grounding issues.Most likely I will order the grounding kit I have seen in other posts for $70 as well as reground the system and use dielectric or some other substance to retard future grounding issues.

Also time to troll all the threads I see about lights and blinkers and such.

Then I guess I will need to replace glowplugs (which are the best that don't swell????), and consider rebuilding bearings and such in the axles, and of course look at brake pads for wear.

I guess I'll post a few threads later next week regarding all the issues and perhaps I'll even whine and complain a little bit.

In the mean time I'm pretty happy with finally having the vehicle here.

I'll post a few pics of the vehicle below :

View attachment 666765View attachment 666756View attachment 666758View attachment 666757View attachment 666760View attachment 666759View attachment 666761View attachment 666762View attachment 666764View attachment 666763
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Brooklyn, NY
Sharp truck, Looks like you have the deep fording kit also minus the intake and exhaust snorkel , I've go the opposite problem and wish I had the rest of it along with your slant back! and of course many more the wants never end lol very cool. Good luck and have fun with it!
Not sure about deep fording kit... Some peices there, others missing. ie.: Has tranny and engine dipsticks for deep fording but lacks oil cover and tranny fluid cover and power steering water resistant units. I would love deep fording but that is for the future.


Whining in the power steering, or in the brakes (fully depressed) is most likely lack of fluid in the system. My system has a leak in it so it drains itself after a week, and it always comes back to whining. Try filling then driving it for a while and see if it stays fixed.
Yeah, I'm an old Pontiac GTO guy so that whining from a failing PS unit is like a song from an old friend. I found at least one area of leakage accounting for lost fluid. I saw oil in my driver's side compartment on the floor. A touch of oil on the brake shaft for the pedal.I kept looking upwards. I opened the hood. Then I saw a hose under the hood that was leaking. I'll post below. Of course it is the LONG one that goes under the radiator stuff. Whoopie for me.

leaking power steering hose.jpgpointing to bad hose.jpg

Next I installed lockable door handles/latches. I'm a bit happier at night. I also de-activated the rear slantback hatch to prevent curious onlookers from opening her up. Steering wheel lock also will supress the intentions of all but the most curious onlookers.

replaced door latch with lockable unit.jpgreplaced latches 2.jpg

Finally noted that retaining spring is missing from one door handle latch. It is the unit pictured below and it attaches to a rod that goes between the handle and the latch actuator on the interior of the door. Any idea where to get these simple items? I can always drill and cotter pin but I'd rather use the correct stuff.

retainer spring.jpg

Off to the O.R. Someone broke a hip and I've been requested despite the fact that I was to start my vacation... Not the first time and I guess I feel honored.

Thanks again one and all!

T
 
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Socommfg

Member
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Location
n. Augusta sc
ground wire, ground wire... How did the military ever get them to , battle ready, condition? Seems everyone I work on has ground problems.... gauge panel and head lights. It is easier to install your own ground straps. Be sure to scrape any paint off of the grounding points.

Ernie
Socommfg
800-648-7687
 

Action

Active member
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Location
SW Florida
Not sure about deep fording kit... Some peices there, others missing. ie.: Has tranny and engine dipsticks for deep fording but lacks oil cover and tranny fluid cover and power steering water resistant units. I would love deep fording but that is for the future.
What is the oil cover, tranny fluid cover, and power steering water resistant units?
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,065
62
48
Location
Brooklyn, NY
ground wire, ground wire... How did the military ever get them to , battle ready, condition? Seems everyone I work on has ground problems.... gauge panel and head lights. It is easier to install your own ground straps. Be sure to scrape any paint off of the grounding points.

Ernie
Socommfg
800-648-7687

Yeah, I agree. Mine is a 1987 so after 30 years I'm gonna cut my USA military a tad of slack :smile:. I agree that grounds are frequently a problem so I plan to reground via kit in stickies AND also via braided grounds on various engine and dash components. Dielectric grease also to prevent Copper on Aluminium and Copper on steel galvanic reactions.

What is the oil cover, tranny fluid cover, and power steering water resistant units?
From my reading there are various kits and such that I found here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?142120-Deep-Ford-Kit/page2

Post #11 has part numbers.

Engine oil and tranny fluid input seem to require a watertight seal.

PS seems to require some type of air seal or cover.

Seems like there are also many many smaller parts and tubes and such.

Flea-bay also listed these items for sale for roughly $1350.

There was another post elsewhere that I just cannot find on another website. That listed specifications that I read but never logged the site as I never expected to need to recall it.

Now you know these vehicles much better than I do Action, so feel free to correct me if necessary.

Glad you're following my posts.

T
 

tomcata3

Member
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1
16
Location
spring city, pa
Hi
It looks good but you have the wrong base for the driver seat and you need to upgrade your wheels from the 8 lug around the outside of rim to at least 12 lug
24 lug looks the best of course
 

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