Operation Mighty Mite Miracle

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Another Ahab

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The cost of the kit is $47.50 + $8.50 shipping. I'm so thankful that they still make fuel pump rebuild kits for the Mite.
That's kind of like Mercedes-Benz, and I don't own one, but if you have a Benz (no matter how old it is), and it needs a part?

M-B will make it for you. I'm sure that's not cheap, but it's the principle: they will back you up. I like that spirit.

Maybe they have former M-B people on staff in "Mite" land. :mrgreen:
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
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Jeannie's regulator. EUWWW! Must have been submerged at one time. Just a guess, but this may have been the reason the batteries weren't charging....


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ODFever

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The gas pedal works a little smoother after pushing the oil pipe out of the way of the throttle rod.

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ODFever

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From Doc: I decided to work on something that had nothing to do with the motor so I made up a mirror mount from the Skycraft stash. I squeezed my eyes real tight like Forrest Gump and came up with this. Real close to a M series rear view. From thought to fabrication to painting and installing in an hour.

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ODFever

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A while back, I pulled the fuel pump off and shipped it to Then and Now Auto. They did an absolutely stellar job of rebuilding the pump. They cleaned off all of the crusty paint and installed new screws. I'm sure it was easy for Doc to install the new components. No rusted screws to fight.
 

ODFever

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From Doc:

I went from lawn mower gas tank to Mite tank and found that the line was plugged. I cleared the line and then found that there was air bubbles in the fuel filter. Air was being dragged into the gas. No leaks anywhere so must be above the gas tank. Put some low pressure air in the line and listened for hiss. Found the leak on a steel line near the tank.

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ODFever

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Old line removed. New line fabricated. No blood or four letter words believe it or not. New line installed. Took some time but went smoothly. Fuel coming from tank and no air bubbles or leaks.

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ODFever

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The new cap would not sit flat in the metal cover. I had to file a little bit of plastic off the three bump outs where the screws go through. As you can see in the first photo, the area that was rubbing and binding. Quick fix but took time to find out the problem. The new cap is made of Lexan I believe, the old one out of bakelite. I didn't see any other problems with it.

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Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
From Doc:

I went from lawn mower gas tank to Mite tank and found that the line was plugged. I cleared the line and then found that there was air bubbles in the fuel filter. Air was being dragged into the gas. No leaks anywhere so must be above the gas tank. Put some low pressure air in the line and listened for hiss. Found the leak on a steel line near the tank.
That was some excellent detective work. You really know your stuff, Mr. Doc.

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ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
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Another note from Doc: There are three fuel lines in the Mite. I replaced the center one. It's about 2 feet long. The front line looks like it's been replaced at one time and still looks good. It's about 3 or 4 feet long. the rear, which is about 1.5 feet looks okay. It attaches to the top of the tank and I'd rather not drop the tank at this time. I'm trying to figure out a flat spot on slow acceleration right now. The engine cranks up fast hot or cold, and it idles well.
 

ODFever

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Before and after photos. Too worn to repair. Being so close to the motor makes the wires brittle, so I made a new harness. The temp sensor is okay so you should have some lights now.

:)
 

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Another Ahab

Well-known member
15,915
133
63
Location
Alexandria, VA
Before and after photos. Too worn to repair. Being so close to the motor makes the wires brittle, so I made a new harness. The temp sensor is okay so you should have some lights now.
That Doc knows his stuff:

- That new harness looks a WHOLE lot better than that cob job he removed.
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
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Doc is at it again. I wish I had his impeccable fabrication skills.



The body panel on the drivers side at the firewall was loose at the body side and broken at the frame mount. I made a new right angle bracket and some rivets at the floor. It won't be flapping in the breeze now.

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ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
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From Doc: I used the second shifter top that you had. The one on the Mite had sticky plunger springs and had some extra holes drilled in to it. Still usable but the extra one that you had was a little better. It had me scratching my head on a problem. I found a reverse slide rail pin had been sheared off from use which gave the shift stick the same results of a loose stick and a mystery of gear selection. One roll pin later and all fixed. Nice and tight shift now. I also freed the lockout rod and pins and put new cotter pins in. Cut off switch lying in the background waiting for a mount on the transmission hump under the starter knob.

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