Operation "URGENT RESTORATION"

m38inmaine

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Today between rain showers the task was separating the carrier from the apple orchard project. I had planned on a day of torching, pounding, cussing, rust, bruises etc. Just the opposite, the two carrier pins tapped right out, the u joint and steering shaft separated and it popped apart.

Brandon, if you are reading this post I have a spare carrier that has a very nice tub, no extra holes, the diff.,axles and steering arms will need to be replaced but it's yours for the taking if you can get it to your location.
 

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AMGeneral

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Today between rain showers the task was separating the carrier from the apple orchard project. I had planned on a day of torching, pounding, cussing, rust, bruises etc. Just the opposite, the two carrier pins tapped right out, the u joint and steering shaft separated and it popped apart.

Brandon, if you are reading this post I have a spare carrier that has a very nice tub, no extra holes, the diff.,axles and steering arms will need to be replaced but it's yours for the taking if you can get it to your location.
Thanks,I'll keep it in mind,I am planning a trip to TX around Labor day,maybe I can plan one to Maine before the snow flies up there!
 

m38inmaine

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I have not messed with the engine yet. I am going to try your method though, between work and other non mv related projects I have not dedicated the time to do it yet. And I think I am also afraid it wont free and I will have another big job in front of me. It was running great and drove up on the trailer when the po purchased it but it sat out under a tarp for the last 15 years. The oil looks good and under the valve cover is clean so hopefully with a gentle tug it will free up. It's just about impossible to get a socket on the crank pulley, I tried nudging the pressure plate with a long crowbar but I was afraid I would damage something by prying too hard.
 

m38inmaine

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After work projects today included replacing the heim joint at the center diff shift linkage, pretty straight forward. I noticed after I separated the carrier that the slip shaft u joint was frozen solid and the slip shaft was frozen and not sliding. A soak in Kroil freed up the slip shaft and it came off with a gentle tap. Now with that off I replaced the carrier steering shaft bearing, the final one of four. As with the other bearing surface areas this one was chromed where the bearing rides. You can change it in place without having to remove the shaft at the rear steering box. Getting the fozen u joint off was another story, hydraulic press, vice, sockets of various sizes did not even budge it. So the cutting torch came out, even then it was quite a job, being careful not to damage anything. My local NAPA had a Gama Goat part in stock on the shelf !, #861 u joint is the NAPA number for the steering shaft u joints. Before I put it all back I will blast, prime and paint the shafts.

The u joint that got replaced is exposed to the weather between the tractor and carrier and I suspect this is what caused it to rust up, that and an obvious lack of grease, the same goes for the slip joint. This part of the steering shaft needs to be maintained well as when the tractor and carrier pitch/roll this slip/u joint has a lot of movement.
 

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m38inmaine

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No actual work on the goat itself today but managed to clean, blast and paint a bunch of parts. I ran out of semi gloss od and zinc chromate primer. I guess I need to recruit a new supply SGT. I still need to order the inserts for the rear lights and the lenses for the front marker lights. The full red rear lights came out well, a buff with flitz metal polish cleaned them up nicely.
 

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mkcoen

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I really need to get MV of the Month before your's if finished. By the looks of things mine will be the ugly step sister that fell into the pig stye compared to your's.
 

mkcoen

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Looks good. Only thing I've done today is edit the GoPro video from the drive yesterday. I cut it down to 12 minutes for those truely dedicated Goat fans. Unfortunately it's still got over 3 hours of upload time to YouTube before I can add a link.
 

mkcoen

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m38inmaine

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Maine USA
I have been away for a week so work on the goat has been slow. Received a NOS windshield yesterday(thanks Bill) and set it on today. I noticed it was rocking in the center, the corner of the hinge was hitting on the dash so I had to grind a bevel on it for clearance. Also got an original -10 and the two PS magazines. The pictures in the original manuals are really nice, I think it is worth the effort to find them. Blasted and painted the one battery retainer I had, waiting for another parts order to arrive with the guts for the light buckets.

Inside the -10 there were a few folded pages of paper. One was a MWO for a new engine wiring harness, the other was a copy from the first edition of Army Motors, it talks about the upcoming surplus release of Gama Goats and weather the collector should be interested in buying them, given their faults.
 

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Jericho

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There are more of us than you know, I have two goats, I use one as a daily driver and put around 3000 miles a summer on it , on third set of tires, Its all original, my other goat is highly modified, ive installed a fresh Chevy small block 400 and have just about finished a complete overhaul , all I have left at this point is a replumb power brake upgrade with chevy hydro boost components on the brakes, Clinto on this site was instrumental in getting me the bits and pieces for a complete replumb, I have some cross numbers and a line on some parts , Popacom is a treasure trove of knowledge and parts, and a very nice guy! I am located a short jaunt down the road from you in Landaff NH I have a line on some aluminum hull plugs, trying to secure them as we speak ! If you need any thing drop an email to Jetoneusaf@gmail.com Andy
 

m38inmaine

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Location
Maine USA
Thanks Andy, I will be in touch.

I managed to get the steering box(thanks Mark)in today. Getting the main spline to line up was tricky, had to enlist help but it's all in and steering nice. I made a gasket for the top of the box out of a sheet of rubber, not sure what the original was made of. I filled the box with Lucas oil stabilizer, it's pretty thick and sticky so I think I will give it a try. It looked like there was some dark brown grease inside, also appears the box had been rebuilt at one time.

One thing to note is that the 3 screws on the top of the box around the triangle shaped area are threaded into the cavity of the box. This is another potential for water to get in and the threads should have sealant on them. The other screws are blind holes.

Now that I could steer it I pushed it I the garage with the help of my M1010, much better working on it inside.
 

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