optimizer long block - hummer 24V or cucv 24v

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richingalveston

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made some more progress on the truck.
The roof rack is 99% welded and ready for final paint.
I have completed the exhaust and almost completed the tire lift. I have a few more things to do to the tire lift. first is to reinforce the riser pole. I plan to add an outer pipe (one size larger) and weld it so it will be a double thick wall. The pipe is working and flexing a little bit but not bending. I would feel better if the pipe was a little stronger. The horizontal pipe will also get some truss framing to the top of it. The tire lift works well. My spare tire without the rim is about 110lbs. I use the four way tire wrench in the center to lift the tire flat. The vertical pole, pullies, 4-way and rope all store inside the tire, the horizontal bar will lay across the top of the tire and be used to secure the tire in place. a cover will be placed over the tire and then the pole since the tire does not have a rim I have to keep it from getting filled with water.
There is a lot of extra storage room in the tire so I will be able to carry additional recovery gear inside.

The roof rack is getting 1 inch thick foam board installed between all of the inner framing and then I am using 1/4 birch plywood to cover the entire inside of the roof rack. This plywood will get painted and sealed with rv roof top paint. This particular paint also has heat shielding properties. The roof rack covers the entire roof of the 1009 so with the foam plywood and paint, the sun and heat will never reach the roof. The foam has an r5 value and the plywood and this particular paint is supposed to act as an additional r5. I have used it on an rv and it made a very noticeable drop in the inside temps. There is about an 1/8 inch gap in the rack and the roof in the center and about 2 inches on the edges. This air gap will also help in keeping the heat from transmitting to the roof.

The rack at this time with visor weighs about 100lbs and I will add another 20lbs in wood paint and sealing tape before it is done but it covers approx. 44 sq. ft so it is less than 3lbs per foot. The AC is 75 lbs, the tire is 110lbs and I plan to carry some additional items on the roof including some water jugs so total roof weight with rack is going to be about 400lbs. The rack is definitely strong enough, I can walk on it with no problem not that I plan to.

attached are some picks. I hope to have it finished in another week so I can start to work on the inside duct work for the ac. I have not had much work lately so it will be a little while before can purchase the inverter but I can run the ac off of house power or my 2000 watt honda so I can get it all tested and ready waiting on the inverter.
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Sharecropper

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Paris KY
Instead of Birch plywood, you may want to consider using Medium Density Overlay plywood (MDO). Speaking from over 50 years in the architectural millwork business, I can attest that Birch plywood will not provide satisfactory performance in the application you are describing. MDO plywood is also known as “sign” plywood and is produced with stronger exterior glue and clear interior cores, along with a water-resistant fiber overlay on both sides for a dead-flat, exterior-rated surface. MDO is what I used for years for structural sheet goods in all exterior millwork projects.
Roof rack looks good. Really like the tire lift. I’m trying to figure out something similar for my M1028 build to get my spare into and out of the bed of my truck. The weight of one of my 11.00/20 NDT tire and wheels weigh upwards of 250 pounds. Seriously considering installing a Tommy Lift.
Stay safe.
 

richingalveston

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Location
galveston/Texas
my rack Is already heavier than I wanted it. I was hoping that the birch would hold up ok since it will have a water seal on the top of it and foam backing on the other side so it will be mostly encapsulated. The birch is the lightest plywood I can get. I am using 1/4 inch to save on weight. They don't have the MDO in any of my HD. I would have to special order it and I think the thinnest it comes in is 1/2 inch. I wanted to use aluminum but that Is really expensive to get a piece wider than 48 inches. I found a place in Houston that sells 60 inch wide by 8 ft. long but it is almost $300 per sheet. The other problem with aluminum is attaching it to the steel. I will be using some aluminum with rubber tape between it and the frame and nylon washers and steel rivets. The aluminum I plan to use will be 1x3x1/8 inch flat bar and it will wrap the outside of the frame to make it a water pan. The water is designed to run out the back corners of the rack.
I will see if I can find a local supplier on the MDO and take a closer look at it.
Thanks
Rich
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,703
87
48
Location
galveston/Texas
I will have to go to the store and see if they can order it. on the internet, it is not available for delivery and it is not available in any stores within 100 miles. I will go by the pro desk today and see if they can order it. 3/8 would probably be ok and a few extra pounds may be worth it.
Thanks
Rich
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,703
87
48
Location
galveston/Texas
I will have to source MDO plywood from someone else. I went to HD today and they could not even pull up the scu # They said when this happens they don't offer that item in my area and cannot order it.
I will look this weekend at a couple of other places.

I did get my camera cables ordered today. I have a friend that is in the business and he talked me into a dvr system that will require an inverter but it is much better and more reliable than the 12 volt versions. He says it should pull less than 2 amps. and will handle 8 cameras. I am getting a front camera that has pan/tilt/zoom with night vision that is in color.
They are making the cables for me so I can get the wires installed when I do the lights. I will only get the system and two cameras for now with my $400 that I can spend at this time but the additional standard cameras are about $75 each so I should be able to add the others in a few months. I plan on 5 cameras. front, rear, sides and one under the truck so I can see how the tires are lining up on the rocks.

I plan to start working on the wiring this weekend.
Rich
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,703
87
48
Location
galveston/Texas
I have been busy with work. I still need to remove the roof rack, paint and do the wiring for the lights and cameras. I have all of the supplies just not the time. I have been starting the truck on a regular basis and it starts really fast. I don't think the engine turns a complete revolution before it starts. The ignition is almost instant with the turning of the key.
One bad note, my passenger side valve cover has a slight leak. looks like I am going to have to break down the top of the motor and pull the cover and reseal it. The good news is I have become pretty good at this, I can have it broken down in about an hour. I will pull the turbo to get it out of the way, pull the intake and IP with all the lines so I can have full access to the valve covers I have the passenger side inner fender out now so getting to the turbo bolts is easy.

I have to be out of town for a few days but when I get back early next week I plan to start on getting the leaks fixed and finishing the rack.
Two steps forward and one step back seems to be my MO on this build.
Rich
 
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