out of ideas. no start m1008

[ohfisherman]

about 3 weeks ago i was driving down the intersate in my m1008. motor just quit. i thought i ran out of fuel. i know, the gas gauge broke a week earlier. got it towed home. added fuel and tried to start it with no luck. bled it out and still nothing. i squirted a little diesel down the intake and it sounds like it wants to fire but it doesn't. i replaced the glowplugs, solenoid, and put in a new card. i know it had nothing to do with it quitting but i figured i had them around anyways. i added all of the new stuff after it would not start. the truck was fully warmed up when it quit so it does not make sense to be a glowplug issue. its almost like it jumped time or something. i am not the best diesel mechanic so any ideas would be appreciated. it has 20k original miles and is the worst running truck i have ever had (i own 3 total). i did notice when i pulled the pink wire the shut off solenoid was not working. i put in a good one. any secret to installing that? looks like it just sets in. also cleaned the check valve on top of the IP. thanks in advance.

 

[Grega]

Try to bleed the injectors, starting with the fuel filter. Maybe you got air in when you ran out of fuel.

 

[ODdave]

the top that holds the stop selenoid has to be "slid" into place. if bolted straight down you could have a potential WOT situation that will NOT shut off.

 

[Dually]

This may not be your problem, but it is some place to start.

I have a couple of 84's that suddenly lost power and died. Low mileage like yours. The first time I restarted the engine, I was able to drive a short distance with low power, and then they would die. After that they would start for a couple of seconds and die. I could bleed a little fuel when cracking a hard line, but they would not run.

In 85' or 86' there was a modification to the injection pump. A governor dampner ring [SIZE=-2][/SIZE]was omitted and a design change was made to the weight retainer assembly. A new weight retainer superseded the old design. I think it is called a EID retainer. You can find seal kits, but they have the replacement plastic ring. You want the new hard part. I don't remember the exact part names. The plastic retainer disintegrates causing no mechanical connection through the drive section of the injection pump.

A little metal tag was supposed to be installed on one of the 4 screws holding the GCC if the pump was upgraded, but that is no guarantee.

One test to see if the plastic retainer is bad is to remove the governor control cover GCC (rectangular cover on top of injection pump) and see if there is little black pieces in the bottom of the pump. If there is, that is probably the problem.

GL UncleSam's had rebuild kits for around 70 bucks that had all the hard and soft parts usually needed for a rebuild a few months back. They are sold out now. The part number for the kit is 2910-01-413-3615. I rebuilt both of mine and it was not difficult.

The injection pumps are not that complicated to disassemble and put back together if you are mechanically inclined. Sparco makes all the parts if you can not find a Stanadyne dealer that will sell you parts.

Google JDemaris & Stanadyne DB2 for more information. He is a guru on these pumps and resealed/repaired them in field during his career.

All the parts are available from a diesel supplier out of Ft Worth, TX. A Sparco seal kit and the retainer is around $75, but it does not have the hard parts in the part number I listed previously.

FYI As old as these vehicles are, if the injection pumps have not been resealed, they probably need it anyway. [SIZE=-2][/SIZE]

 

[ohfisherman]

when you say slid into place, is the j shaped piece supposed to hook around the linkage or does it just ride up and down like a cam?