Overheating

[rmgill]

So what antifreeze does have a specification for diesel engines. I've just been to a NAPA and to an O'Reillys and neither had antifreeze that was clearly for a diesel engine.

Bjorn, where'd you get your test strips? Fleet Pride?

 

[jwaller]

you can get the test strips at walmart or anywhere that has chemicals for treating swimming pools.

 

[houdel]

My local Parts Plus automotive store carries it, also the local truck stop. Any good sized truck stop should have it, or maybe your local parts store can order it. Just make sure it states "For Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Use" on the container. Surprisingly, it only goes for about a buck more per gallon that what Wally World gets for Prestone.

The swimming pool test strips are OK for checking pH, but I don't think theyy will test the SCA level. I think you need special diesel coolant test strips to do a proper test.

Bjorn, if you are out there, can you clarify if the LDT465 has wet or dry liners?

 

[cranetruck]

Dry liners as far as I know. The additives make the coolant more efficient regardless, so why not use them... better heat transfer and reduction of bubbles (microscopic) and better corrosion protection.
I got Cootrak (sp) test strips on line, about $6 for 50 strips.
The strips that test the level of additives are made for a particular brand of additives, the cooltrak tests the freeze point and acidity for any glycol based coolant.

 

[houdel]

OK, I guess I'll try another search on line. BTW, from what I've read on the internet, the test strips ARE specific to the brand of coolant you are using. "Cooltrak" are for coolants with "Cool" as part of thier name, i.e. Dexcool, Penncool, etc., which use a specific coolant chemistry. Other coolants with a different chemistry use a different type of test strip. Guess I'll have to research this topic again and try to provide some clarification. Of course, I have NO idea what coolant is in my system, other than it is green in color and my system is full up to just below the filler cap!

 

[houdel]

OK, I stand corrected. I thought the LDT465 had wet liners, guess I am wrong. I'll still go with the "Heavy Duty Diesel" coolant though, cost difference is negligable, with proper testing annual flushes and refill are not needed, sounds like if you keep the SCA and pH in the proper range the stuff will last almost forever!

 

[rmgill]

I was contemplating installing a catch tank for excess coolant on my Deuce. I'm a little tired of it spitting coolant on the ground every time I stop as part of the open system.

 

[cranetruck]

That's a new one on me, maybe you need a new radiator cap....7 to 8 psi.

 

[rmgill]

Hmm. Could be. I'll see about getting a new one tomorrow. I figured it was a partly open system like on the ferrets. But in retrospect I seem to recall that the manual said it was a pressurized system.

 

[clinto]

I was contemplating installing a catch tank for excess coolant on my Deuce. I'm a little tired of it spitting coolant on the ground every time I stop as part of the open system.

I have added a coolant recovery tank to all of my Mopars and it's nice.

 

[WillWagner]

Cummins sells a good extended life antifreeze with sca already in it. Comes in a 50/50 mix as well as a concentrate. It's called "Complete", made by Fleetguard. Just a heads up from what i see on a daily basas, the RED ELC or long life coolants, Shell, Chevron, and a couple others that i can't remember, have a nasty habit of eating rubber parts on older diesel engines, water grommets in h. gaskets, t-stat seals, o-rings that seal to coolant, etc. I don't think i'd use this type in my engine, it runs too good and doesn't leak coolant. I don't wanna take it apart for a self inflicted coolant leak. The test strips are also available and they are designed for the Fleetguard stuff.

 

[devilman96]

I am doing exactly that... When I was working on my radiator I removed the over flow tube to get it out of the way... In the process I noted that the tube was plugged solid from one end to the other... Proably started with critters and finished with whom knows what! Rather than risk a second plugging I cut it off and will plumb a tank in when I reinstall it.

Also the Napa PN is listed in the parts cross if your chasing a replacement... Even has the hole drilled for the chain.

 

[houdel]

Not all coolants are created equal. If you can find an extended life antifreeze marked for heavy duty diesel use with the SCAs included, by all means use it. Do NOT use ELCs designed for gas engines (the red stuff) - it is BAD for diesels. I don't understand the chemistry involved, you would think that since both gas and diesel engines circulate coolant through a cast iron (generally) block, rubber hoses, a copper (generally) radiator and back again the type of coolant shouldn't be important, but it is. For some reason which I am not entirely certain about, the diesels require specific additives that gas engines don't. The only thing I've been able to find out is that the diesel SCAs "wet" the cylinders better, preventing air bubbles from forming and creating hot spots in the cylinders.

None of which, by the way, addresses cummins original question about overheating, unless he refilled his cooling system with the wrong coolant when he replaced his head gaskets, and even that I doubt would create the problem he has.

Sorry about stealing you thread, cummins!

 

[rmgill]

The other issue that I know of with the normal coolants is they contain silicates, which eventually precipitate as sand.

 

[JasonS]

Again, cavitation erosion is caused by cylinder liner vibration. The coolant additives create a film around the liner to protect it. I would suspect that there two reasons it is needed on diesels. If the liners are steel, they are more susceptible to erosion that cast iron. Turbocharged diesels likely have higher cylinder pressures which cause more vibration. I'd be surprised if there would be a caviation erosion problem with the relatively low power, dry sleeve multifuel. Either way, you can add the coolant additive. NAPA has the cooling test kits for checking pH, supplemental coolant additives, and coolant filters. I run the "silicate free" dexcool in my wet sleeve gas engine.

BTW, caviation erosion is not the only way to result in a hole. There is an electrolytic process where a non-ferrous particle such as brass will stick to the block and eat a hole. Had a ford tractor die that way. A pH test would probably have identified poor antifreeze (acidic) in that case.

 

[bottleworks]

Cummins, when you did the head gaskets, did you have the heads machined? Purhaps your current heads can still be saved...

 

[CUMMINS]

No, I didn't have the heads machined. I have them off now and the headgasket and everything else looks just fine, but I will have them magnafluxed and machined this time around. I was wondering if the deck of my block could have cracked since I have the thin deck block, but I haven't seen any cracks and even then head gasket would have to show signs of leaking to get compression in the radiator from a cracked block so I think my block is alright, what do yall think?

 

[taylordc15]

Wow, wish I had read this thread a couple of days ago.
My truck started leaking at the top radiator hose. I of course added regular antifreeze and made it worse. It overheated on the way home. I did a search on here and found my mistake. I have flushed the system 4 times but when I went to pull the thermostat to speed up the process, it wasn't there. I think the radiator may be partially blocked, I have pulled and checked the hoses and flushed it with CLR. I ordered a thermostat and I ordered the filter kit from OD Iron. Just waiting on parts to see if this takes care of the problem. If not I will have to pull the radiator and get it rodded out. I have only had the truck for a few weeks, I drove it from New Orleans to Corpus Christi at between 45 - 50 MPH and the temp maintained between 200 - 210 which I now see from reading on here is a little bit hot.

 

[southdave]

You might have air in the coolanat system ect..

 

[southdave]

try bleeding the system