it depends on your vehicle...
I believe you must drain the transfer, but that's the easiest part
. You don't need to drain every last drop, just till the flow slackens near the end and put the plug back in, maybe 3.5 gal. (clean 5gal bucket, 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar, about 5 minutes)...
A 1078 you can trim the bed folded sheet metal crossmember. you can also unbolt the bed and lift the front 3-4" over the upper frame rail. Depending on your available tools and skillset, either will take perhaps an hour or longer. A plasma cutter would take perhaps 10 minutes to setup and cut out the interfering material... you need to be able to move the P6 clutch assembly~6" to the rear to slide the clutch center carrier off of the protruding center splined shaft...
There is a lower bolt-in crossmember in the main frame but it is far enough back to not be much of a factor except to reach around to access hardware or manipulate the assembly while lowering it out... not much of an issue...
If you have a 1079, get ready for the pain. I own a 1079 chassis... There is a heavy welded crossmember(same channel material the upper frame rails are made out of) in the upper frame, approximately 3" behind the P6... Besides having a m1079 box on top of it, it is huck bolted to the main chassis frame with 18-20 fasteners. you need to remove those fasteners and lift that upper frame rail ~8", or slide it 6" to the rear, to clear the P6 enough to remove it. The other option is to cut it out and turn it into a bolt-in crossmember... It is 1/4" 2" X 6" channel, so no easy task with the 1079 box in place, then prepping and drilling the remaining ends for a bolt plate or welding it back in...
Since I am converting that upper frame rail into my habitat floor, I did not want to cut that crossmember. but since I am making it a hydraulic captured spring habitat to chassis connection, I had already cut all the huck bolts out. I simply had to unbolt the front and lift the habitat floor and cargo boxes 8" to clear the P6.
Once the interferences are out of the way, Besides the 5 minutes to drain some oil, with a powered ratchet and a breaker bar, it is under an hour to remove all the hardware and pull off the p6 assembly(there is a notch on top to insert a screwdriver to pry/loosen the seal on the p6 cover, providing all the hardware spins out OK(15MM bolt heads, in 3 different lengths). It weighs ~55# but it is supported by the center shaft and a case guide ring, so you can get all the hardware out easily before you try and move it(nothing will freefall
). not horrifically heavy and not until you slide it off the center shaft.
On the bench, 2 minute disassembly. Remove the upper/outer snap-ring with a screwdriver, and lift the center carrier and all the rotor and stator discs(perhaps 25#?) straight up and out of the housing and set aside to inspect later. That will leave you staring at the P6 thrust bearing on top of the tower like in the above pics...
Good luck if you should decide to accept this mission... This tape will self destruct in 5... 4... 3...
