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Painting a M998

FSRD

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Utah
FSRD, what happens to the look of the rivets when you use high build primer? Why don't you retreat with alodine after you strip that off? How long will it be until one of your workers gets cancer? You apply a coat of primer, then another if needed. Don't you sand the primer? I don't see lots of 1990's H1s with flaking paint.
I like original
The rivets still appear as they typically do and they are still visible when we use a high build primer even when we use a rubber coating on the whole body of the Humvee the appearance of the rivet is still there. Often times we will hand paint the rivets anyway to make them pop better and it definitely adds to the appearance. These Humvee are rough vehicles they were never made or designed to have high gloss coatings on them or to have a look of perfection, therefore there is a lot of work required to get them to look really nice like the civilian Hummers so on occasion it is required to do 2 coats of primer to fill in any of the low spots that may show up after the first coat has been applied. You do not have to sand the primer before adding paint, we are not working with wood here we are working with metal and fiberglass. As for not seeing many civilian Humvee with chipping paint those Vehicles were made with higher-quality in mind therefore they did a better job on them however when expansion and contraction occurs over time some of the rivets can get loose and when they're subjected to vibration when that occurs it will chip or crack the paint. Most people that own the original H1 also keep them garaged they're not sitting outside for their whole life like the military Humvees are. We also don't always have to paint over rubber coating to get the color that we want we are actually able to tint the rubber coating that we use so that we can change the color of it and spray it in many different colors. My point was that when paint is sprayed on this it's a less likely to chip because of the barrier that's created between the paint and the metal surface hits adhered to.

Will use respirators when we sand, paint and primer.
 

FSRD

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Another thing to add is we typically do not strip off all the paint we still leave it there but sand it to a level that is required for it to look nice. It doesn't have to be 100% perfect because the high Build primer does an excellent job at removing imperfections.
 

Action

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Another thing to add is we typically do not strip off all the paint we still leave it there but sand it to a level that is required for it to look nice. It doesn't have to be 100% perfect because the high Build primer does an excellent job at removing imperfections.
-6 Sandblast the entire body or nylon cup brush it with a grinder depending upon the condition of the paint. We will also sand them with pneumatic Sanders in the areas that need it.
So you sandblast the entire body, but don't remove all the paint?
 

FSRD

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So you sandblast the entire body, but don't remove all the paint?
Yes that is correct we sandblast but do not remove all the paint. The purpose in doing so is so the primer coat that we put on adheres to the surface better. If the paint job is really bad then we will remove all the paint. After we sandblast or cup brush it we will blend in the areas that have chipped paint. It's not typically necessary to remove all the paint.
 

Sintorion

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Fla
Just got a quote to dustless paint strip my HMMWV inside and out, for $2k... what do you all think?
Just had mine painted for $1K using Sherwin Williams CARC Type 2. In terms of you get what you pay for my guy did minimal prep, but it is a solid color now and looks better than before.
 

FSRD

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Just got a quote to dustless paint strip my HMMWV inside and out, for $2k... what do you all think?
For that price you could buy a good air compressor and pneumatic tools or a grinder with a nylon cup brush and a good respirator and just do it yourself for way cheaper. You could even buy all the things I just listed for less than 2k. If the 2K is for just the stripping of the paint buy your own supplies and do it then if you don't have an indoor facility to do it in it doesn't matter cuz you're just stripping paint off so just park it outside in the grass and get her done. I recommend you do it yourself because then you'll get to know the Humvee in and out. Even if you disassemble and reassemble the whole thing it's really not all that bad just take pictures of everything so that you remember where the parts that you take off go, that way when it comes time to reassemble you don't get lost in the process. If you do end up disassembling it I recommend replacing all of the nuts and bolts with stainless steel or aluminum ones that way you never have to worry about them rusting out and rust welding themselves together. It's really not all that bad to do it just takes time and if that's not something you have than I guess it would be worth paying someone else to do it but 2K seems pretty steep just to strip paint off.
 
Last edited:

sully199

Member
170
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18
Location
coral springs Fl
Just got a quote to dustless paint strip my HMMWV inside and out, for $2k... what do you all think?
That seems like a lot to me, I have used a company to do the frame of some of my hmmwv for me and it only take a couple hours to do. I pay 150 an hour for the guy to come out to my shop. I would call some one else for another quote.
 

RichDane

Member
51
8
8
Location
Hatteras, North Carolina
Just painted this, this morning, CARC 686 from the army-guy on Ebay...did it completely with two gallons.the paint was terrific, took my breath away...light scuffing, the normal removal of small items...reenforce the hood , looks great if I say so myself
 

Confederate2348

New member
6
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1
Location
Houston, Texas
Hello guys, I am about to give my truck a new coat of something. I am killing myself about what to do. Do i take the easy way out and use Raptor liner ( either black or tintable with 383 Rapco)? I say easy way in reference to sanding the existing CARC Paint. I really REALLLLY dont want to deal with CARC dust of any sort.

For the most part, the trucks carc coating isnt terrible, theres a lot of little spots that are rough, cracked, flaking or drips. Additionally, theres a handful of places that show bare metal, all about the size of a quarter. With that in mind, do i perform spot prep and paint? Or do i just tape the whole girl up and blast away with a fine bed liner?

My concern about painting with just 383 Rapco is the chips showing through like crazy. Wouldn't it be like patching a dry wall hole and not sanding it smooth before paint?

Thanks, any input is welcome. Again, ill reiterate, i have a thing about breathing in dust/sand, a lot of people will mention respirators, but im going to be doing this in my driveway, a place i dont really want to make a hazard area.

Pics for Reference!

IMG_0122.JPGIMG_0124.JPGIMG_0129.JPGIMG_0315.JPG
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Brooklyn, NY
Hello guys, I am about to give my truck a new coat of something. I am killing myself about what to do. Do i take the easy way out and use Raptor liner ( either black or tintable with 383 Rapco)? I say easy way in reference to sanding the existing CARC Paint. I really REALLLLY dont want to deal with CARC dust of any sort.

For the most part, the trucks carc coating isnt terrible, theres a lot of little spots that are rough, cracked, flaking or drips. Additionally, theres a handful of places that show bare metal, all about the size of a quarter. With that in mind, do i perform spot prep and paint? Or do i just tape the whole girl up and blast away with a fine bed liner?

My concern about painting with just 383 Rapco is the chips showing through like crazy. Wouldn't it be like patching a dry wall hole and not sanding it smooth before paint?

Thanks, any input is welcome. Again, ill reiterate, i have a thing about breathing in dust/sand, a lot of people will mention respirators, but im going to be doing this in my driveway, a place i dont really want to make a hazard area.

Pics for Reference!

View attachment 750612View attachment 750613View attachment 750614View attachment 750615
There is a great section in paint and restoration regarding exact color matches for the non-cancerous BEHR paint products from Home Despot. Color codes, paint options, and best of all it is not nearly as cancerous as CARC.
 

Confederate2348

New member
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0
1
Location
Houston, Texas
I'm not concerned with color options, i know what color and product i will use.

What i am asking revolves around the process and possible dangers of spot prepping for paint (risk vs benefit) in comparison to other coating solutions to avoid carc dust (bed liner type products).

Additionally, i just wanted to throw it out to the community to see what they would do.

Thanks,
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
I'm not concerned with color options, i know what color and product i will use.

What i am asking revolves around the process and possible dangers of spot prepping for paint (risk vs benefit) in comparison to other coating solutions to avoid carc dust (bed liner type products).

Additionally, i just wanted to throw it out to the community to see what they would do.



Thanks,
I would do what richdane reply 54 did. I dry sanded my HMMWV in my garage with zero respiratory protection 15 years ago and I'm still kickin'.
The isocyanates are bad when the paint is uncured.
 

ohiohmmwv

Member
450
16
18
Location
Columbiana, Ohio
Hello guys, I am about to give my truck a new coat of something. I am killing myself about what to do. Do i take the easy way out and use Raptor liner ( either black or tintable with 383 Rapco)? I say easy way in reference to sanding the existing CARC Paint. I really REALLLLY dont want to deal with CARC dust of any sort.

For the most part, the trucks carc coating isnt terrible, theres a lot of little spots that are rough, cracked, flaking or drips. Additionally, theres a handful of places that show bare metal, all about the size of a quarter. With that in mind, do i perform spot prep and paint? Or do i just tape the whole girl up and blast away with a fine bed liner?

My concern about painting with just 383 Rapco is the chips showing through like crazy. Wouldn't it be like patching a dry wall hole and not sanding it smooth before paint?

Thanks, any input is welcome. Again, ill reiterate, i have a thing about breathing in dust/sand, a lot of people will mention respirators, but im going to be doing this in my driveway, a place i dont really want to make a hazard area.

Pics for Reference!

View attachment 750612View attachment 750613View attachment 750614View attachment 750615
I’d recommend going to a military show to see the differences in paint. You’ll see some trucks painted in CARC and some in other paints attempting to look like CARC. Some of the CARC substitutes can easily be noticed 80 feet away or more because of color and how much they slightly glisten in the sun.
 
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