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Pintle hitch question

ChemicalSFC

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Alabama
I am scheduled to recover my first ever M1101 next week at Ft. Campbell and am trying to make sure I get it right the first time. In reading everything I could find related to M1101s on this great site, a concern arose concerning the pintle hitch. I purchased a combination pintle/2 inch ball hitch and then read somewhere that this type hitch did not allow enough clearance behind the ball for the military size lunette ring. Is this correct or am I obsessing over nothing? By the way, does anyone know how "thick" the lunette ring is?

My thanks to all for helping this newbie get started in this hobby you all obviously enjoy so much.
 

Squirt-Truck

Master Chief
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Every combination hitch I have ever seen will work with the MS ring. But, yo should avoid using that kind of hitch, it has far to much slop. You should use a full pintle style hitch. Even then, the small hitches are sloppy, but much stronger than the ball combination.
 

juanprado

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I have both and feel they are the same as slop is part of the lunette/pintle equation. I prefer the full hitch on the riser plate just so the trailer sits more level. Slop to me feels the same.

The combination hitch is always straight and most military trailers sit higher than stock receiver heights. The straight one I have is rated 6 tons but I have never even gotten close to that weight.

I tow m116,m101, and the bigger cousin m105 with a 2007 tahoe, 2002 Durango, and 2007 Durango to give you a feel.

I use chain quink links in the hole of the hitch to reach the military safety chain as typically they are too short and the hook will slip into the quick link but not into the standard small hole on most receivers.
 

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HMMWV Nut

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Here is a picture of my setup which uses a 2" ball and i have 1 3/4" behind the ball. I have pulled everything between an M332 to a M1082 without any issues.IMG_0386.jpgIMG_0388.jpgIMG_0277.jpgIMG_0276.jpg
 

KsM715

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You understand that the safety chains ( to be legal) must be hooked to the tow vehicle and not to the removable hitch.
 

ChemicalSFC

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Alabama
Thanks for the responses. Squirt-Truck, I appreciate your input and would probably get the regular if I hadn't already bought the combination. It is rated at 10,000, so should be okay for the M1101. Juanprado, the hitch I bought is the combination that bolts onto the 12" riser, so I should be good to go. HMMWV Nut, I will be towing with a 2500 Duramax and normally tow 28' gooseneck, but have never considered towing anything like the monster behind your 3500. How tall is it and how much does it weigh?
 

kblazer87

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I have a 2 5/16" ball/pintle combination rated at 16,000 lbs. and it works with all of the lunette hitch trailers I have ever pulled, (which is quite a lot) both civilian and military.
 

HMMWV Nut

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Thanks for the responses. Squirt-Truck, I appreciate your input and would probably get the regular if I hadn't already bought the combination. It is rated at 10,000, so should be okay for the M1101. Juanprado, the hitch I bought is the combination that bolts onto the 12" riser, so I should be good to go. HMMWV Nut, I will be towing with a 2500 Duramax and normally tow 28' gooseneck, but have never considered towing anything like the monster behind your 3500. How tall is it and how much does it weigh?
Overall height is 79" and weighs around 6,500lbs. Normally i wouldn't pull anything like this with the truck but i had to get it removed from that location in a hurry and didn't have enough time to arrange someone to load it on my goosenck.
 

Amer-team

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you won't have any trouble pulling that trailer with the pintle ball hitch set up. As has been said, watch for the height, tongue to height of your tow vehicle. Also you want a good adapter from your tow vehicle to the trailer or some tow lights. You can drop the trailer down about 4 to 6 inches by putting civilian 8 hole rims on it. There are a couple of good threads on this topic with the M1101 or M1102's. I have had three and they are great trailers.
 

ChemicalSFC

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Location
Alabama
Amer-Team, thanks for the advice. My hitch adapter should allow me to level the trailer for the recovery trip. When I upgraded my Chevy 2500 to H2 rims and larger tires, I kept the stock aluminum 16' 8 lug wheels and tires to install on the M1101. At some point I want to put matching H2 wheels and tires on the trailer. As far as wiring, I plan to change the stop/turn/tail bulbs and splice in a 4 wire connector for the recovery trip. In case something goes wrong with my wiring attempt, I will also have a set of towing lights along.
 

Amer-team

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The bulbs that are in it, 24v will work, but be dim, or you can go with the LED bulbs (sorry don't remember the numbers) and pull it on either 12 or 24. If you end up using your tow lights, if they are magnetic, there is a lot of aluminum on that trailer. You might want something you could clamp on the tailgate. I bought one of the adapters that someone on here made for the military connector to the connector on my civy truck and it works like a champ.
 

Trailboss

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The military usually has the tires inflated to ~15psi, but I've found the trailer travels smoother with 30psi. I have picked up one with very little air pressure, but with the run-flats in the tires, you couldn't really tell - so check the tires before you hit the highway.

Your hitch will work fine.
 

m16ty

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I've got a plug adaptor were I can plug my civilian truck to the m-series plug. The 24v lights will work but will be dim.

I always carry magnetic lights (with clamps) when recovering one of these trailers though. More often than not, the trailer lights will have issues so I just slap the magnetic lights on and go.
 
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