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Potential M101a2 buyer - need assistance

michigan4x4

Member
131
1
18
Location
Romeo, Michigan
Hello.. New guy here looking for advice, suggestions, and opinions on a possible recovery from GL. I have been lurking around the SS site for the last few weeks and want to say that you guys have a REALLY informative forum here!!! I have searched the forum on an off for the last few weeks but still have questions.

So. I have been looking for a M101a2 for the last few weeks locally with no luck. Thinking of now going the GL route. It appears that I will have to travel out of state in order to get what I want. Thinking of bidding on a few in the upcoming weeks.

Do to my work schedule I will not be able to preview anything before I bid... I know, I know... it is best to preview but unfortunately, it is not an option for me at this time.

I have a few questions:
#1 I am looking for a late 80's or newer M101a2. How risky is it to "expect" tp tow one of these home with my truck? I do not own a flatbed and really dont know anyone that does... In other words, based on past experiences you have had, would I have a 85% chance of getting it home without issue? What if I drive all the way to the GL location and I cannot make the trailer road worthy with the tools that I have? Will GL make me take it off site? Has this ever happened to anyone before? What did you end up doing. I would hate to see what a tow company would charge me for a 400 mile tow!!! OUCH!

#2 Other than magnetic trailer lights, various tools, a floor jack, jack stands, what else should I plan on bringing as my "recovery kit" should I win a trailer?

#3 I am mechanically inclined but will say that I have never repacked trailer bearings. Is there a "how to" posted somewhere (specifically for military trailers) that I could reference.

#4 What items are the "must inspect" items before hooking the trailer up and TRYING to pull it away.

The GL lots that I am planning on bidding on are anywhere from 4.5-8hrs drive time one way... This definitely scares me a bit and I am trying to go over all the "what if" scenarios in my head.

Last thing..... what is the standard Lunette height for the M101a2 when the trailer is sitting level assuming 8 lugs wheels and radial tires? I am trying to figure out how I would need to set up my hitch.

I know all of the above is premature since I havent even started bidding yet, but I would rather have some insight before I decide to pull the trigger.

any other tips, hints or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks for any and all assistance!
Jeff
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Hey, welcome and no worries. Whatcha towing with? Lunette height is around 22" but that shouldn't be a huge concern for the ride home. I would say odds are 90% that you could tow it home. Bring ot borrow 2 8 lug rims with decent tires and you have curbed most of the problems. May need some extensions for the safety chains as well. Bearings! If you have ever worked on wheel bearings on any automotive application, you can do trailers. Check tires, jack it up and check for wheel bearings or stuck hand brakes, yes they have hand brakes. Check to make sure lunette and coupler assy are securely boltd down, add lights and ride. Odds are good that WPAFB or Creekside will be the locals with trailers. Quite a few members around them so a little help should be no issues if the trailer is trashed. I say go forth. Maybe when you find one, post up in the inspections wanted forum and see if a member is going by the site and can put an eyeball on it. The 101A2 is probably one of the friendliest trailers to recover.
 

KsM715

Well-known member
5,149
142
63
Location
St George Ks
Maybe when you find one, post up in the inspections wanted forum and see if a member is going by the site and can put an eyeball on it. The 101A2 is probably one of the friendliest trailers to recover.
:ditto: Chances are if you have to go thr the EUC process you'll have a little time to find someone that can go look at your trailer, If you happen to get one without inspection. There are also several members that are willing to go with you on the recovery to help check things out or even offer a storage place incase things go FUBAR on the recovery.
 

michigan4x4

Member
131
1
18
Location
Romeo, Michigan
Thanks guys... I feel better already. It appears that they (GL or the DoD) has taken the EUC requirements off of the A2 trailers. The A1 still needs the EUC but for some reason the A2 doesn't.

If no EUC is required, I would probably want to pick up the trailer shortly after I win the auction. So yeah... Maybe putting a post up on the inspections thread might help me get a better idea of what I am dealing with... That is soild advice!! thanks!

Will GL generally let you do some safety related work in the lot where you pickup the trailer or do you have to go to a local walmart paking lot to jack the trailer up, check the bearing, make sure the wheel lugs and hitch bolts are tight etc?

Thanks again. I appreciate the assistance...
Jeff

My tow vehicle is a Chevy Colorado pickup truck with a 4000lb towing capacity. I think it should pull the trailer fine. If I find one with a cover, rails and bows, I will probably want to take them down for the ride home.
 
A fair # of these are sold at Ft Meade MD.

Previews can only be done on tue-wed-fri. I believe that is correct. The site administrator is called Jason. He does know me generally. I have been there many times previewing stuff. I bought an M35A2, M103A1, and tractor trailer + trailer dolly, there. I got my M817 in Richmond Va.
Want to buy an M817 ??;-) You will need a truck to take the M101 home;-)

If there is one at ft Meade MD you are interested in let me know as soon as you have chosen a few candidates. As much before the auction starts as possible!
I will go and look at them and inform you (with pics) as to how much trouble/cost it will be to make your prize "road ready". It is about 50 miles from my home to Ft Meade.
I have been an auto and medium duty truck mechanic for 20+ years. I usually catch potential problems that are too much to fool with. On a long road trip you don't want trouble.

I know there are obvious risks with this next detail since you and Jason don't actually know me personally.
If you are going to need a title GL will get it for me because I live in Va. (for $60.00) I think I will have to do the purchase on my account for that. I will not do that without me holding enough of your money to make the entire purchase with. USPS money orders are my choice. After you have bought your prize you will get an invoice from GL. It is 2 pages. You will fill out page 2 and send it toi me so I can pick up your prize.
My M103 is all the trailer I should ever need.

GL might do that title thing for you too. Check that out! Some of the state gov't's can be miserable to get an original title from. Especially for an old vehicle.

It is 100 miles round trip for me to go there. I would want fuel costs + $25.00 per trip. Pic + notes about it would be free. I can pick it up and move it to my house near "Tyson's Corner Center" in VA. for a short time if necessary to do any basic repairs to make it "road ready".

We can discuss costs of such repairs once you have bought one.
You should pick one that needs not much more than a flat fix.

I think that is all.
Bob
E
 

Ratch

Member
586
5
18
Location
Chester County, PA
I've picked up (9) 101/116's (116 is the 101 chassis), and all but 1 have been road ready. You wouldn't know that 1 wasn't ready til you got there, though. Another had a worn brake shock, but I didn't know that until after I sold it and became familiar with the symptoms through this site. Not un-towable, though.

I've sold a few of these trailers and looks like I'll be selling a few more. Can't seem to stop my bid finger. If you're willing to drive to eastern PA (much further than your nearest GL lot :D ), I could sell you one I've already monkey'd with and know to be long-haul-worthy. With a lighting harness conversion, too... :p

#1:
Why that particular period and why only A2?
There are 90's A2's that I'd prefer over the 80's unit's, and for my own towing pleasure, I'd prefer a early A3, the one's with the A2 axle but the gusseted bed walls. I'd really prefer the latest A3 with an A2 axle so I can have fender wells far enough apart to carry 4'x8' plywood flat, but I would rather cut and widen the older bed style than swap an older axle under a newer trailer. Personal preferences, I'm just curious why you settled on that series, and figured I'd rattle on a bit in case you were unaware of the other differences.

#2:
I have a rough checklist I've set up:

recovery tool list:

-Several pliers
-dikes
-phillips and flat head screw drivers
-mini sledge hammer
-Tire iron
-pry bar
-(filled) Air tank with hose and tire chuck, or some form of compressor
-Tire pressure guage
-crossbar-lugwrench
-jack stands
-floor jack
-bottle jack
-several 2x4 sections
-cordless drill w/ phillips and flat bits, and charged batteries
-12v 1157 bulbs and plug-in harness
-(2) 5-link 3/8" chain sections with clevis hooks and removable links (safety chain extensions)

For multi-trailer recovery:
- (4) 20' towing/recovery straps
- (4) small ratchet straps
- (4) 30' ratchet straps
- (2) 15' chains with hooks or removable links (1/4" should be sufficient)
- (3) chain binders
- (1) 6' 2x4
- (1) 6' chain with hooks
- (3) 8' 2x4's
- Several 6' 4x4's or landscape logs
- Several various length 2x3's and 2x4's
- Magnetic towing lights
Most of it has never come out of the truck on a GL lot, but if I needed any of it, I'd sure be happy not to be asking if they can wait for me to run up to the nearest Lowes...

#3:
Sorry, I can't answer that with any experience. I can tell you that here at my house, with a pile of tools handy, I've still never gotten a hub bearing cap off. Be prepared to skip a thorough bearing check and be frustrated by that very basic step. But at the very least, jack up the wheel, unlock the brake, and check it for free spin/binding/excessive play.

#4:
-Tires, lugnuts, hub stability (see #3)
-Lunette bolts
-Brake actuator to mount bolts
-Drawbar bolts at actuator mount and chassis


Long post, but I'm sure it's incomplete and others have more info.

It's also good to remember a trailer can go to a depot and have a couple parts pulled off it before it's sent to DRMO. Once at DRMO, it comes in with 50 good trailers on the back of a semi, they're bound to not notice things that would screw up roadworthiness.

Good luck! It's an adventure!
 
Last edited:

michigan4x4

Member
131
1
18
Location
Romeo, Michigan
BobUSNR. Thanks. I appreciate the offer.... Seems like too long of a drive for me, and more time than I want to spend getting a trailer. I appreciate it though.

Ratch...

I am looking at getting 1980's "Or Newer".... Believe me, if I can find a good 90's vintage or be lucky enough to find one that was Reconditioned by VSE in 2007-2010 I am all over it!!

From my understanding the A3 has bigger bed dimensions no? Bigger Hummer tires as well? Believe me, If I could find a M416 in decent shape for a decent price I would be all over it. But I cant... I would prefer smaller not bigger and heavier. The trailer will be used as a hunting rig in Northern MI. I will be a gear hauler for our wall tent and hunting gear. When emptied, it may also serve as out kitchen. It will more than likely never be loaded with more than 500lbs unless I get a haul of firewood etc.

Thanks for the Recovery tool list. That is exactly what I was looking for...

Again.. I appreciate everyone helping out.
Thanks
Jeff
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I am not too far from Wright-patt. I could pick up and store a trailer from there for you. Do you need bows and a cover for the trailer? I have one available with the crank up landing leg without the cover I need to move. Feel free to PM with any questions.
 
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