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Pre Start questions

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
I'm getting two residue M1009s from GL and would like to know if there are any specifics that I should look for before starting them up for the first time? I know they are drained per GL (EPA) requirements so I'll have to refill them with fluids, but is there anything specific to check on before attempting to light them off for the first time?

Any advice on how to bleed the fuel system if it's been purged

BTW, this will be at home where I can get to tools and what not.

Later,
Joe
 

JohnFire

Member
336
4
18
Location
Pottsville, PA
The way I bleed the air out of my M1028 is using a hand brake bleeder vacuum set up. On the fuel filter base you plug the fuel discharge outlet where you would normally bleed out the air by cranking the engine. I just used a rubber plug for that. On the top of the filter take the bleed valve out. Connect the little resevoir to the front of the brake bleeder and use the little cone vacuum plug and stick that in the bleed valve opening. Pump till you get fuel. At this point you have fuel to the filter, and a couple cranks with the engine and you should be in business. You could probably do the same thing if you pull the output hose off the filter base and pull the vacuum from there. If you need pics just ask and I will try to get them asap.
 

CCATLETT1984

New member
3,507
5
0
Location
Saint Clair Shores, MI
i doubt that they would have purged the fuel system.

first before you crank the engine over, pull the pink wire from the top of the injector pump, this will prevent any air (if there is any) from getting into the high pressure lines (you really dont want to have to bleed those.)

then crank for a few seconds and run over to the filter block on the firewall and open up the bleeder screw to see if you have straight fuel coming out or air mixed in.

If you have straight fuel, go ahead and close it off.

If you have some air in the stream, close the bleeder and go crank for a few more seconds, continue until the stream has no air. (let the starter cool for ~2minutes after 30sec of cranking)

Your now good to swap out the old filter for a new one, as a trick fill up the new filter with fresh diesel before putting it on the block, it will save a lot of cranking to fill it.

Then rebleed with the new filter in place. Once you have no air in the stream, you can reconnect the pink wire and try starting the truck. It may run rough for a minute or so as the last little bits of air run out of the system.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Well, I need to go back down there to make sure that the fuel filter housing is still there... I don't remember seeing it on the firewall and there are LOTS of pieces missing from these trucks. Both are missing the wiper motors and the brake master cylinders, both are missing the glow plug relays and one has the wires cut to the relay. One is missing both alternators the other has them both but is missing the belts. The starter is connected to one and dangling from the wires on the other. And they took the ubolts and diff cover off the front axle of one but left the axle... :cookoo:

Overall the engines look to be ok, with no holes in the block, but who knows if they run. But they both have new looking exhaust systems so that's a plus... LOL [thumbzup]

Later,
Joe
 
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