Problems after lifting M1009 4 inches

[Strad]

Hey all, I decided to lift my truck 4 inches and add some 35 inch tires since I read you didn't have to modify anything else except changing the steering arm. Well, I finished all up and now when I accelerate from a dead stop, I hear all sorts of clanking and popping coming from my transmission area. It doesn't sound like its the transmission itself, but once I hit about 20 mph it stops. I thought it might be the cross shafts in the U-joints, so I greased them up with the grease gun but that didn't help any.

Has anyone come across this issue? Any suggestions I would really appreciate! Thanks again.

If I need to upload a video clip of this, let me know so I can do so.

 

[FM5332FF]

Check the front drive shaft to make sure that it is not binding at all the U-joints.

 

[Strad]

Check the front drive shaft to make sure that it is not binding at all the U-joints.

I took some pics of the U-joints coming out of the transfer case to the front drive shaft. Does this small clearance look like an issue?

 

[Shop Rat Fab]

Few questions:
Is the noise present in 4x4 and 4x2 or is it one or the other?
Hubs locked or unlocked does that make a difference?
What's it do in reverse?

As FM5332FF stated check the joints grease will not cover up a worn joint and since your changed the working angles on them the needle bearings are moving more. Make sure you didn't forget something and leave it loose like the sway bar brackets or axle u-bolts. Jack up the front of the truck body/frame, say put the jack under the front bumper and raise it 2-3 inches, but leave the axle hang and tires on the ground, then rotate the front d/shaft by hand this will simulate the rear going down and the front coming up like it does on accel.

 

[Strad]

Few questions:
Is the noise present in 4x4 and 4x2 or is it one or the other?
Hubs locked or unlocked does that make a difference?
What's it do in reverse?

As FM5332FF stated check the joints grease will not cover up a worn joint and since your changed the working angles on them the needle bearings are moving more. Make sure you didn't forget something and leave it loose like the sway bar brackets or axle u-bolts. Jack up the front of the truck body/frame, say put the jack under the front bumper and raise it 2-3 inches, but leave the axle hang and tires on the ground, then rotate the front d/shaft by hand this will simulate the rear going down and the front coming up like it does on accel.

If I let go of the brake and let it move on its own, it makes no noise. When I step on the gas to accelerate from a stand still, then it makes quite a bit of noise up until I reach 20 mph and I'm not pushing hard on the engine. I haven't put it in 4wd yet. I did put it up on the lift and double and triple checked everything. Would it be possible that when I step on the gas, the tranny might shift a little and close the angle down on the U-Joints even more causing the u-joints to rub?

 

[Shop Rat Fab]

If you are in 2wd then the front drive shaft is not rotating unless the front hubs are locked. Was the rear lift blocks or springs? If blocks did they have an angle to them or were the spring and axle surface parallel? If the blocks had and angle to them the shorter distance should be in the front and the longer distance so it angles the pinion on the rear axle up if the block is installed backwards the working angle on the rear joint is way beyond 3-4 degrees which is prefered.

 

[Strad]

If you are in 2wd then the front drive shaft is not rotating unless the front hubs are locked. Was the rear lift blocks or springs? If blocks did they have an angle to them or were the spring and axle surface parallel? If the blocks had and angle to them the shorter distance should be in the front and the longer distance so it angles the pinion on the rear axle up if the block is installed backwards the working angle on the rear joint is way beyond 3-4 degrees which is prefered.

Well I guess that's another problem. My front drive shaft spins when I'm driving and my hubs are off. I guess the front is still engaged...sigh...
The lift was leaf springs all the way around. I'm going to drive right now and film it.

 

[Shop Rat Fab]

Obviously check the T/case shift linkage and t/case operation then go after the double carden joint and clearance issues. Looks you are on the right track now.

 

[Strad]

Obviously check the T/case shift linkage and t/case operation then go after the double carden joint and clearance issues. Looks you are on the right track now.

Its definitely the double carden joint. I can see the wear marks. I just don't know where to go from here. Is there something somewhere that I can buy to fix this?

 

[jcappeljr]

You might have to lower the transfer case,I did when I put a 6" on my 1009.

 

[Shop Rat Fab]

Usually you are good till your over 6 inches. I have only lifted Ford trucks and my 1009 is stock. I see no reason you couldn't work the areas of contact with a die grinder. Since you are not the only one to lift one of these I would see what others have done if they have run into the same problem.

 

[Mudstone]

i lifted 4" and put on 16.5 and 37's. We had to drop the transfer case slightly even though only 4 inches.

 

[Strad]

i lifted 4" and put on 16.5 and 37's. We had to drop the transfer case slightly even though only 4 inches.

Did you use a kit to drop it, or did you do something else?

 

[militarycucv]

Did you use a kit to drop it, or did you do something else?

u should be able to take the spacers that are under the trans x-member and put them unbetween the frame and x-member.. free transfer case lowering kit!

 

[Strad]

u should be able to take the spacers that are under the trans x-member and put them unbetween the frame and x-member.. free transfer case lowering kit!

I did exactly what you said and man did it ever work!!!

 

[Strad]

I want to say thanks to all you guys, you guys helped me out through this issue. I dropped the transfer case using the spacers and that solved my problems. No more vibrations or noises. I want to thank Shop Rat for the quick replies and helping troubleshoot the problem!

Now I just have to figure out how to dissengage my front end!

 

[akonitony]

That might work fine but...
You need to rebuild the CV joint, and while you have it apart, grind down the small clearance tabs on the inside surfaces where it was hitting. It is very easy once you have made the mistakes I made and learned from them. You will need a propane torch to heat the joint up and make the plastic retainer boil out of it's holes. It will come out of the holes on the sides like a snake. It will take about 30 minutes to do this step, but afterwards, you can get the u-joints out just like a normal driveline's. Do this, and you will have a bullet-proof lift, otherwise, you are driving a time bomb if you do a lot of off-roading.

 

[FM5332FF]

you dont need to drop the t-case, just clearence grind where it is hitting. I Lifted my M1008 12" and had to do the same. just alot more than what you will have to grind, Another fix is buying offset U-joints which will give you more room. Tom Woods makes some and they are bullet proof.

 

[akonitony]

I want to say thanks to all you guys, you guys helped me out through this issue. I dropped the transfer case using the spacers and that solved my problems. No more vibrations or noises. I want to thank Shop Rat for the quick replies and helping troubleshoot the problem!

Now I just have to figure out how to dissengage my front end!

Probably have grease in the hubs that has gotten old and hard and is making the locking mechanism stick. Just try turning each axle shaft at the knuckle u-joint on each side with the t-case in 2WD. Although both probably need to be taken apart and cleaned, the one hanging up will be the one you can't turn.
Just another pearl of wisdom from your's truly

 

[48cj2a]

It is not uncommon for the drive shaft to turn on Chevy 73-87 and 88-91 K5s and Subs w/ hubs unlocked. A 4 degree taper shim between the springs and axle will also help a little on 4 - 6" lifts.

In 1981 when the NP203 and NP205 began to be replaced with the NP208 most of the lift companies started a T/C lowering kit if vibration or noise occurred after lift. The spacers already there usually solved the problem. Like mentioned earlier a little trim of the tabs with a die grinder will solve this but be ready for premature ujoint wear in the rear.

I used to be pretty rough on a 79 Jimmy with 36s", then 38s", 40s" and back to 37"s before I got rid of it. Put u-joints in the rear upper about every 3 weeks. Got to where I could remove the drive shaft in about 10 mins and drive home on the front.