PTO neutral on M51A2

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tobyS

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Thanks, I'll have to take a look tonight. It does seem like that collar moves too far forward.

Any idea if the boots on the shift rods would be available at a local parts store or are they a specialty item? I figure I can get everything else locally (seals & gaskets) and am hoping to have this put back together by the weekend.
I like the looks of your truck. I miss my 817...one of the last ones made. This no reverse in low is a pain with the 929. I like the body style too.
 

gringeltaube

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....Any idea if the boots on the shift rods would be available at a local parts store or are they a specialty item?....
No idea. The only thing special on these boots is the collar on one end, to hold it in the bore via the stock retaining cup.

Dust boot, PTO.JPGCup for dust boot B.jpgBoot retainer, shaft seal.jpg
 

fasttruck

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Reference post 18: the air cleaner used was not completely consistent between Mack and Continental engines. If one was damaged in the field whatever the parts man had would be put on the truck. The Army had kits to convert gas engine trucks to either Continental or Mack engines which would require a new air filter as the gas engine's was under the hood. If an engine was replaced in the field apples went to apples and oranges to oranges. It would be difficult to replace a Mack with a Continental engine as the starter, air pump, fuel pump and alternator would be on opposite sides of the engine. I sure someone will tell be it was done somewhere but it would require a lot of hours to change all that over.
 

Seq

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How is that retainer coming out (#39)?!?!! Can I push the shaft out far enough to remove the seal so I can get at it from the back side? There is not much room to work in there!


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gringeltaube

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You really don't have to remove that shaft unless the bearing is bad. Just pull that old oil seal out with the help of a pair of sheet metal screws.
 

Seq

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New hydrualic pump installed and PTO all sealed up. Still weeping a bit of oil from the auxiliary shaft after driving a bit but I can live with it. I have to engage the auxiliary shaft by hand as I'm missing the linkage. I think I'll just make it air actuated if I can find a cylinder that will work.

I was hauling some gravel this weekend and discovered a split in a sidewall. I knew the tire was losing air, now I know why. So I'm in need of a tire or 2 (would like to have a spare also). I also need to change the wheels up front as the driver side is rubbing on the idler arm during sharp turns. I've been reading up on combat vs HEMTT wheels and think I have combat wheels as the HEMTT wheels shouldn't hit the idler arm (am I right?). If that's the case, can anyone identify these wheels that I found for sale? This is the only pic I can get (no pic of the front).Wheel #1.jpgWheel #2.jpg
 

Robo McDuff

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See below diagram....

Unscrewing 5 cap screws (#37) is all it takes to remove the whole rear auxiliary drive unit and take a look inside.
It should come off easily; if not then the front nose of the output shaft (#40) could be stuck in the corresponding shaft assembly #4 and that would already explain your issue.
Otherwise check for a loose set screw #55; a bent shift fork #54 and a full 1/2" travel of the shift shaft #47.

Just came back after a long day, and ending it with a good pizza with some glasses of wine. Makes it very difficult to read that diagram, seeing everything double. Will try again tomorrow morning :beer:
 

gimpyrobb

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I haven't put big tires on my 5ton, I left it pretty much stock. I don't have a good answer.
 
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