Question about starting my M1009

[lindsaym]

When I start my M1009, sometimes the engine hsa to turn over several times before it fires up. Usually, we're talking in a range of 2-3 seconds. Sometimes though, it can be 5-6 seconds. Weird thing is, when I first start the truck in the morning, It will fire right up. But if I go to the grocery store, and come out a half hour later, it will take longer to fire up. I'm wondering if this is normal, and is this causing any extra stress to my starter or any other components? Thanks, guys!

 

[Hasdrubal]

I had that symptom, turned out to be a leaking fuel pressure sensor on the filter base. Want to test it ; Try cracking your fuel cap, to release vacuum after the last drive of the day, then see if it fires quicker in the morning. So, no it is not normal. The longer cranks will hasten the day when your starter bushings will wear out and starter will begin to crank slower, needing a rebuild.

 

[cpf240]

He says it is hard to start *after* having been run.

Maybe its the heat-soak issue with the IP fuel-cutoff solenoid? Next time it seems hard to start, try pouring some water over the IP, and if that seem to help, you may need to replace the IP fuel-cutoff solenoid.

 

[Shankem-Deep]

Mine was doing the same thing. I replaced the GP temp sensor, GP's, GP relay, GP controller card, fuel filter and base, and maybe a few other things. None of these things made any difference. If you want you can wire in a manual GP button as a backup option to the controller card. If the engine is warm enough not to engage the GP's and it's still turns over too long you can hit the button for a few seconds and I bet it will fire right up. But what fixed my issue was having the starter rebuilt. Although it didn't seem like anything was wrong, the starter cranked the engine over too slowly. Since rebuilt it spins the engine over with authority! It starts no problem now no matter what the engine temp is.

 

[lindsaym]

I will try that, but what does pouring water over the IP do to indicate that the solenoid is bad?

 

[lindsaym]

Gar! I was hoping no one said anything about a starter! Mine was rebuilt within the last two years, right before I purchased it. Could it be ready to be switched out again? And what is the difference between having it rebuilt and replaced?

 

[cpf240]

I will try that, but what does pouring water over the IP do to indicate that the solenoid is bad?

Sometimes the solenoids fail when they get hot. Pouring water over it cools it down, and allow it to work again.

Just one possible issue.

As to rebuilt vs new on the starter... with a rebuilt, you know what you started with. Many of the new ones are made in China, and lets just say that they don't build things the way they used to...

 

[Shankem-Deep]

Both my MV's had the 27MT starter on them. I had them both rebuilt because the guy at the starter shop told me that the 27MT would probably last longer than the gear reduction style. Plus I had the support bracket for old style starters. I would at least take it off and have it checked. Be sure to tell them it is 24V. Assuming you're still configured that way.

 

[Barrman]

There could also be nothing wrong.

A normal functioning CUCV glow plug/cold advance/fast idle system works off the two sensors at the back of the engine.

The fast idle/cold advance sensor on the outside of the passenger rear head sends power to those two solenoids when it senses the coolant temperature below 95°. That is how hot your coolant is when the high idle turns off.

The glow plug sensor on the drivers side inside rear head is only supposed to call for glow plugs glowing below 125° coolant temperature.

Your truck should have a 195° thermostat in it. A fully cold engine is starting just fine for you because everything is working. Driving it to fully warm and then letting it sit in Alaska for 30 minutes might only drop your coolant say to 126°. Or, 145°, or anything between 195 and 125. The glow plug system thinks the truck is fully warmed up and not needing any glowing.

The 6.2 is an indirect injection engine. The best I have ever seen when it comes to when glow plugs are needed is "anytime it is below operating temperature." Chevy thought that was 125° or higher. I think it is more like 160° or higher. The newer Civilian glow plug controllers actually come on up to around 170° coolant temperature.

This make sense? Everything could be fine. You might just be catching the engine right at the line of needing glow plug help, but not getting it. Here in the Texas summer my truck has the same problem when it sits for more than 1.5 hours but less than 2 hours. The normal .2 second start is 3-5 seconds. I am also sure the cold air getting sucked into the engine might be effecting you as well.

 

[lindsaym]

Actually Barrman, that makes total sense. I've never had an issue first thing in the morning, or leaving work, but when I drive 5-10 miles, go into the store for 20 minutes, it gives me issues. A couple of times it didn't fire up my first try, but did on the second. It's been unseasonably warm here in Alaska (in the 40s everyday) which could be playing a role, too. Maybe the engine isn't cooling as quickly as normal.

Is this causing extra stress on my starter? When your truck has been sitting 1.5 - 2 hours, is there anything special you do when starting?

 

[Warthog]

Taking Barrrman's post furture, you may want to install a manual switch as a backup and when the engine is slightly warm. Very easy to do.

 

[lindsaym]

Warthog, just read up on that. I'm clear that I take the blue wire from the controller and wire to switch. The other line I run to ground...where exactly would that be? I'm not the savviest dude on the electrical system.

 

[Warthog]

Easiest place is at the GP relay on the firewall. Leave everything as is.

Attach a wire to to the small terminal with the light blue wire. Run that wire into the cab, attach it to a momentary switch. A 10amp will work fine.

Then attach the switch to ground. There is a 6 prong ground terminal near the emergency brake.

 

[doghead]

You don't "take" the blue wire anywhere. It stays right where it is now.

You ad a wire to the terminal/stud that the blue wire is on.

The other side of the pushbutton goes to ground. Ground is the metal part of your dash, or the ground spade lugs under the dash(near the parking brake).

 

[Skinny]

One day when it warms up (like July), I'm going to take the wire going from the GP solenoid from the card and woe it inline with a switch. I can buy a three position toggle with an ON - OFF - Momentary ON setup. That way you can run the GP as normal, manual override as a momentary contact so you don't forget to shut it off, an off completely which is a secondary anti-theft and all gives you the option to leave the ignition key ON without running the GP's.

One day...