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Questions about my M1009

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HikerMan

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Boise, Idaho
Hey everyone, I bought my first CUCV a few weeks ago and have some questions about upcoming work I want to do to it...

1) Paint - want to repaint flat OD green instead of worn out camo scheme, I was hoping to do this as cheap as possible and can't really afford the high shipping fees of that Gillipsie paint and don't have the right tools. Can I rattlecan this M1009 and make it look halfway decent? I got one of those plastic handles for spray cans for better control...What paint should I use that I don't have to pay exorbitant rates for shipping off the internet? I got a can from Walmart od green for metal I was going to test...

Basically, can I rattlecan it with OD paint and it not look like total $#!&?

If yes, what prep work should I do for outside and inside? Should I wipe down with acetone before painting? If not, what are my other options?

2) Preventative maintenance - Planning on taking the CUCV on a 3 hour drive up to where I live now, what relatively cheap maintenance items can I do ahead of time with limited skill? Got AAA in case I break down :roll:

Already planning:
Oil and oil filter change
(Is this the correct oil filter? right part number but it just doesn't look right: https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=FIL1092_0331190695
Flush and refill antifreeze coolant (live in mtns want to make sure it has antifreeze)
Check air filter replace if necessary
Treat small pockets of surface rust
Paint truck
Buy spare tire when possible
Change fuel filter? Is there a write-up how to anywhere?

3) Rust hole in passenger front foot area - got about a 3 inch rust hole there, what can I do to patch this without welding?

Sorry about the novice questions, I just really enjoy this truck and want to keep it running right and learn some skills
 
D

DieselJunkie

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I am painting a m1009 as we speak I am using the rustoleum brand camo spray paint I got from lowes and it looks outstanding as far as prep work i went to the car wash and and that was it I taped the windows removed the lights. Then I got a bottle of Fighting Cock from the liquor store and started spraying. The pattern for the 09 is all over the internet. Only downside is it takes alot of cans but lowes let me buy them at cost:)
 
top_prop

top_prop

Member
243
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Location
Suffolk, VA
HikerMan said:
Hey everyone, I bought my first CUCV a few weeks ago and have some questions about upcoming work I want to do to it...


2) Preventative maintenance - Planning on taking the CUCV on a 3 hour drive up to where I live now, what relatively cheap maintenance items can I do ahead of time with limited skill? Got AAA in case I break down :roll:

Already planning:
Oil and oil filter change
(Is this the correct oil filter? right part number but it just doesn't look right: https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=FIL1092_0331190695
Flush and refill antifreeze coolant (live in mtns want to make sure it has antifreeze)
Check air filter replace if necessary
Treat small pockets of surface rust
Paint truck
Buy spare tire when possible
Change fuel filter? Is there a write-up how to anywhere?
Click to expand...
Did you buy this vehicle from G/L?
Has the doghead starter relay mod been done (typically one of the first things done to a CUCV)?
Absolutely change the fuel filter if you don't know how long its been on there... the TM's (Technical Manuals) have great directions.... start with the operators manual on this one.... Then start reading them for more info on what else to do and how...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/68984-howdy-newbie.html <-my thread on what I did before I started driving mine

I also recommend pulling the front wheels and checking the front bearings and repacking as necesary. I made a thread about doing mine search for it...

Tom (another newbie)
 
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Terracoma

Terracoma

Member
334
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18
Location
Albuquerque, NM
1) Paint

You might try sleuthing around the Paint and Bodywork forum, there are a few threads buried there dedicated to rattle-can paint jobs, and I remember one in particular with CUCV content, but don't recall the thread's title... They should turn up with some searching, though.


2) PMCS

Be sure to download the Technical Manuals for the CUCV, if you haven't already, they're a wealth of information!

The oil filter you want is the FIL-1061, if you're sticking with NAPA products.

Other things to check/service that weren't mentioned:
- Remove the fill plug on the rear differential and sample the fluid (with your pinky-finger)
- Remove the fill plug on the transfer case and sample the fluid (with your pinky-finger)
- Inspect the front brake pads and rotors for excess wear/abnormalities
- Check that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder is at the proper level

Word of caution if the brake fluid is low, don't add anything to the reservoir until you know what type of fluid is currently in the system.

For the fuel filter instructions, open up TM 9-2320-289-20 "Unit Maintenance Manual" and follow:

Table of Contents (TOC)
-- Chapter 3, Engine System
---- Section II, Fuel System
------ Paragraph 17, Fuel Filter
-------- Page 52


3) Rust

...... What's that?

:grin:
 
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H

HikerMan

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Boise, Idaho
Thanks for the replies everyone and don't worry, mechanical work is definitely my priority

CROM: It has a block heater installed, looks like I am going to be running a power cord out my apartment window [thumbzup] Do I only plug in a block heater awhile before I need to go anywhere or should I always leave it plugged in? How much will that add to an electric bill? I am planning on flushing the coolant and replacing with some I am positive has antifreeze as I live in the mountains and don't want any trouble with that

SouthernSteel: Thanks for the advice, it hasn't given me any trouble yet but when it does that will be an adventure too, hopefully a cheap one :) Got tagged onto a AAA thing for $25 a year, so that will be cheaper than finding a tow myself

DieselJunkie: Thanks for the advice, I did not know there was a Lowe's brand, I will definitely be checking that out. I painted a school bus camper conversion I did two years back with rustoleum and foam rollers and even that turned out good looking so I am optimistic about this job. Most of its in the prep work as I've found

top_prop: I bought this vehicle from a nice older fellow who bought it from a Police station who bought it from GL. It has been out of government service for awhile, and the PD installed a block heater and who knows what else the had to replace when they had it, but it runs great so far. I do not believe it has the doghead mod as there is still the bank of resistors behind the block in the compartment, but I am no expert in electric. It is still 24v with a push button starter so there has been a little modification in that department. Thanks for the advice on FF and bearings, I have never done bearings myself more than looking over someones shoulder, is it something a newbie like me could do with the TM?

Terracoma: Thanks for the great advice!
That oil filter looks right, I was gonna say the one I linked I haven't changed any oil with a filter like that before. I printed out the first 400 pages of the main TM for a shop manual so I will certainly be referencing that.
Is there any way to tell which dexron(?) fluid is in the brake system or do I need to do a complete flush if low?
Thanks for the direction to the fuel filter page, it is always a trip trying to get to the right spot in that TM
Good advice on the P&B forum, I scoured the CUCV section for paint advice and found little, thats why

Thanks everyone so much for the advice I can't wait to get this truck cleaned up and running smooth down the road!
 
IdahoPlowboy

IdahoPlowboy

Member
286
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Location
Ririe Idaho
Too bad you are in Boise. If you lived near Idaho Falls I could help with most of those projects. Let me know if I can help If your in the area.
 
Terracoma

Terracoma

Member
334
13
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Location
Albuquerque, NM
HikerMan said:
Is there any way to tell which dexron(?) fluid is in the brake system or do I need to do a complete flush if low?
Click to expand...
Dang, I wish I had more time to reply to this.....

Short version: it should have DOT-5 (silicone) brake fluid in it

DOT-5 is usually purple or yellow, and to test, take a small sample from the reservoir and put it in a glass jar, add water to the jar, shake vigorously, and let sit. You should see the water stay definitively separate from the brake fluid, literally a layer of DOT-5 floating atop the water. I try to take a sample with a turkey baster and draw from the bottom of each half of the reservoir.

If you find something other than clean DOT-5 fluid in your sample, I would flush the brake system for peace of mind.
 
H

HikerMan

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Boise, Idaho
IdahoPlowboy and Cobra33Bravo...I'm not sure why it says I am from Idaho I must have put that in wrong two years ago when I registered, I am located in central and mountains NC. My fault, but thank you so much for your offers

4x4 Forever...you are completely right but its just one of those things working minimum wage jobs :roll: I will be getting one asap tho

Terracoma, thanks again for the great advice, without that post I wouldn't have the first idea to test what I should be looking for.

Thanks again for the great help everyone

Another question, once I get a spare and common maintenance done, I would like to install a CB and eventually a cheapy little radio, how do I power those from the 24v system? Is there any way to do it other than tagging onto the batteries and connecting it to the ignition? I don't know much as you all can probably tell [thumbzup]
 
H

HikerMan

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Location
Boise, Idaho
Does anyone know where I could find a stock spare tire mount for the rear compartment of the truck?

Also, does anyone sell fuel can or ammo can baseplate mounts for the rear cargo area as well?
 
top_prop

top_prop

Member
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Location
Suffolk, VA
<quote>I have never done bearings myself more than looking over someones shoulder, is it something a newbie like me could do with the TM?</quote>

Search for my thread... read it and decide for your self. I thought it was easy once I saw how all the parts went together and read the TM a couple times...

But Hikerman... why would you want to use 24V to power 12V equipment? You do realize, your truck has mostly 12V circuits in the fuse panel under the driver's side of the dash... you can use a volt meter and test which spots are 12v and which are 24v to be sure (and remember when the alternators are turning you're really 14.4v and 28.8v).

I've been using the add a circuit connectors to add my smaller draw additions (less than 10A)... they plug right in the fuse panel and have two spots for fuses in them... one is for the original circuit and the other is for the new circuit. For bigger than that, I've grabbed GM patch leads from junkers in the junk yard and then thrown them on a fused pig tail.

If there is a junk yard around you may find your spare tire, rim, and other stuff you may need there too...

good luck with the ammo can base mount.

If you use the search... There is a ton of info here about the differences in break fluids. I just redid my breaks... someone had mixed dot 3/4 in with the dot 5 the truck had, and it was rusty brown, so I've totally flushed the system and replaced all the callipers, flex lines, and cylinders. I decided to stay with dot 5 as it has far superior anti corrosion (think long term life) properties. But it is very expensive. Besides cost the only disadvantage I see on dot 5 is that its hard to find, and anyone who adds break fluid will probably screw up and add dot 3/4.

Hope it helps.
Tom
 
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Terracoma

Terracoma

Member
334
13
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Location
Albuquerque, NM
top_prop said:
If you use the search... There is a ton of info here about the differences in break fluids. I just redid my breaks... someone had mixed dot 3/4 in with the dot 5 the truck had, and it was rusty brown, so I've totally flushed the system and replaced all the callipers, flex lines, and cylinders. I decided to stay with dot 5 as it has far superior anti corrosion (think long term life) properties. But it is very expensive. Thebesides cost the only disadvantage I see on dot 5 is that its hard to find, and anyone who adds break fluid will probably screw up and add dot 3/4.
Click to expand...
Good advice, here.

The battle over brake fluid gets beat to death, and a search covering the whole forum (specifically the Deuce section) will yield a lot of reading material to keep you occupied for several hours... When it came time to do a brake bleeding on my M1008, I decided to stay with DOT-5 because that made sense for what I do with my truck, and the additional expense was worth it for me.

That said, your available funds, your available time, your level of skill, and what you do with your truck will determine your best course of action.
 
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