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Radiator Replacement

Seabee15

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Rochester, NY
Found a leak in my radiator today (kinda funny seeing I just had my plow installed last week). But anyhow, its leaking right at the bottom of the radiator. So i'm going to see how much it will cost to be repaired or replaced.

Does any one know what kind of radiator this is? Size and options installed?

the part store Radiator available has "w/ Engine Oil Cooler; Fits w/o AC; w/ HD Cooling; w/ AC; w/ MAX Cooling"

will this work?

here is the link to that radiator. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Radiator-Ready-Rad_3900681-P_31_R|GRPCOOLAMS_1443161099___
 

musclecars664

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Northern VA
i got a quote from the radiator shop recently to have mine recored. the shop told me about $600 bucks just for a core... they gave me the option of a 4 row 100% aluminum radiator from china for $290, oil lines tranny lines and all. he never told me where he ordered it from but i assume if was from Alumarador something.
 

musclecars664

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Northern VA
ive had mine in for about 3 months and ive noticed that it cools better so my heat isnt as good. but as far as craftsmanship it looks fine. the only thing that didnt quite fit with mine is that the bung for the overflow hose on the filler neck of the rad.... it was in a different position then stock so i had to extend overflow line. I have no complaints so far. i dunno about the longevity of them though.
 

rnd-motorsports

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Evart,Michigan
If I had a choice always go alum I build a lot of race type trucks and street trucks aluminum will take a lot more abuse and they cool better do not rot like the copper and are lighter. I see alot of peaple on here recommend napa I dont like giving more for the same parts or the napa name so I shop other places I drove semi for years for cardone a parts rebuilder who supplys most auto parts yes napa and the parts all come off the same assembly line just a dif box and napa charges more for the same part!
 

mtjbrown

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Cohutta, GA
I just installed a rad from advance auto, copper and brass. Fits well except the oil cooler lines seem to be a different size. I even bought new aluminum lines to go across the radiator, still won't fit. I believe I am going to use an external oil cooler and eliminate the one in the radiator entirely.

Mark
 

southdave

Active member
1,986
6
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Location
ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh
There is someone on ebay out NC I bought a alum. for 6.5 (he had crap pile of them) they where for gruman trucks but they where new in the box and pnly had the engine oil cooler ports...
 

dhedden

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Georgia
Most manufacturers have gone to aluminum due to the higher manufacturing costs with copper/brass radiators. Aluminum as a material doesn't cool better than copper brass. The all aluminum chinese manufactured radiators are using small concentric oil and transmission coolers. The original radiator used a 5 plate transmission and a 6 plate engine oil cooler. The concentric coolers are equivilant to a 3 plate cooler. Thats only half the cooling capability of the factory coolers. Most likely wouldn't be an issue in a M-1009, but it would be in the M-1008 trucks or even the M-1009 running big tires and definately when towing. If you shuck a transmission as a result, you really haven't saved anything.:idea:
The 6.5 radiators have the engine and trans coolers on opposite sides as the 6.2.
 

cfish

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Purely frm a metalergic point, copper is far more conductive of heat then aluminium! It draws the heat out of the water far better then aluminium.
 

doghead

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Hmm, how come all the custom aluminum radiator vendors at car shows, say they aluminum radiators are more efficient than copper? seems like they had some pecentage number they were all using(CRS):confused:
 

cfish

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Who knows! But if you look at the metalergic make up of the two metal copper is far superior then aluminium for conducting heat. Its a denser metal. Maybe with the aluminium rads they are able to change the size and flow of water, which would have an effect on cooling capacity. WHo knows with all the modern marvels out there engineers have a lot to choose from.
 

doghead

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Well, I like my all copper radiator from NAPA
 

Oldsouthernboy

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164
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Location
Jacksonville, al
I had a small leak on my radiator, being cheap and lazy I aded a bottle of Barstalls leak stop, filled the tanks and drove it for about 300 mile in a coiuple of days. Leak stopped and hae had no more problem. That was over a year ago.
 

Hasdrubal

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Vancouver BC
My rad started leaking. The core was shot. My rad guy says it could be expensive as these cores are custom made now only. Turns out I only had a three core, not a four core rad thats supposed to be in there. Luckily in his storage he had a new copper core left from a post office contract on their trucks. It was a two core but with 1/2" instead of 3/8" pipes. Told me that this rad had way more cooling than my truck would need. Got it for $480. I did the re&re.
 

dhedden

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Location
Georgia
The two rows are plenty of radiator. There is so much surface area even with the two row cores that it does the job just fine. The original in my M-1009 was only a two row. The headers are plenty large enough for a 4 row core but it isn't necessary. There is a manufacturer that will be bringing copper/brass replacements to the market in the near future.
The advantage to copper/brass radiators over all aluiminum is longevity, repairability, and resistance to chemical corrosion, especially in an environment with alot of road salt and snow. Copper is incredibly salt resistant. Aluminum falls victim to electrolysis caused by interactions of dissimiliar metals in the cooling system. Those all aluminum units cannot be disassembled and repaired like copper/brass units. just a little food for thought.
As far as cooling is concerned it's about the core design and proper air flow through the core more than the material used when it comes to these two metals.
 

nudewheeler

New member
41
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Location
Tucson, AZ
I just installed a rad from advance auto, copper and brass. Fits well except the oil cooler lines seem to be a different size. I even bought new aluminum lines to go across the radiator, still won't fit. I believe I am going to use an external oil cooler and eliminate the one in the radiator entirely.

Mark
Mark, what was your solution to this problem? Just encountered the exact same problem, replaced radiator and engine oil cooler lines don't fit. Reference the thread I just posted for additional details.

I am quite interested how you solved this!
 

dhedden

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Location
Georgia
It is possible that you guys are getting radiators for later model 6.5L civilian applications. The dimensions are similiar but the engine and transmission coolers are transposed compared to the 6.2L radiators. This would appear as improper cooler fittings when in fact the coolers are on different sides.
The correct DPI part number for our radiator is part# 850.

Hope this helps.
 

mtjbrown

New member
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Location
Cohutta, GA
This may be a "ghetto" solution but it worked. I took a dremel tool and slit the ends of the cooler tubes down to the o-ring position and used a pair of pliers to reduce the diameter of the lines. new o-rings and they worked like a charm!!

Mark
 
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