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Rapidly clogging fuel filters... Sand in fuel?

top_prop

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I've had a few diesels.... and as always as they age they've gotten 'bugs' in the tanks now and then. I've always added bio shock to a nearly empty tank, refueled and repeated as necessary to kill the infection. Typically a few tanks of bio shock and a few filters and all is well. But the bugs have always been a dark, pretty much black goop.

I modified my My M1009 with a 3/8 inline filter near the tank and an electric fuel pump (removed Mech pump) and a napa spin on fuel filter base instead of the square standadyne. Its always had a few black clogged filters, but as long as I changed them with the oil all was well.

A couple months ago it started clogging filters with redish, brown, rust colored goop. Worried it was rust, I felt it... it was goopy and smooth, no grit. So I shocked and changed filters... its been about 6 tanks of fuel and it seems to be getting worse (ie I plugged a 3/8 primary and a spin on secondary in a week.... just changed them and got about 60miles out of it today before the 3/8 inline primary clogged). Yesterday's goop wasn't goopy but gritty... I'm wondering if I've been getting bad fuel with dirt in it (I always use the same station and the same pump), or mud dobbers, or if someone pranked me... what do you think?

ETA: It might be 'rust' I just put a magnet to it from behind the plastic and it moved... a little.
 

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doghead

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I would remove, inspect and clean your tank.
 

Warthog

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Good Ol' bio-diesel. All most every station around here is selling it

I just watched that video. The commentary was the best part. How about some "macaroni"?
 
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Captaincarrier

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We have been seeing an aggressive corrosion in ULSD tanks since 2007. They have pulled samples from fuel tanks from New York to California and the results have it being linked to ethanol. Several laboratories have come to the same conclusion.
 

dependable

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If the red goop is not gritty it is an algae that can form in diesel if it is let sitting too long. It may or may not be worse with bio diesel, but shows up with regular diesel in marine applications all the time, often in tanks for auxiliary motors that don't get used much.

A few years ago I was given an old diesel Mercedes. It had been sitting for several years. After many filter clogs I removed the fuel tank screen and flushed tank. Some of the red algae strings were 2-3 inches long. Many of the better diesel additives contain algaecide, which should be added to diesel that might sit a while.
 

Captaincarrier

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Ethanol in diesel fuel?!!?!?!?
I know it sounds odd, so I went back to Sept 10th 2012 in my files and found the first notice we received :
To investigate the problem in an objective manner, eight stakeholders in the industry, including PEI, funded a research project through the Clean Diesel Fuel Alliance (CDFA). That project, undertaken by Battelle Memorial Institute, now has been completed, and a 146-page PDF report discussing the findings has been posted on the PEI website.
The report concludes that corrosion in systems storing and dispensing ULSD is likely due to the dispersal of acetic acid throughout tank systems. The acetic acid is likely produced by Acetobacter bacteria feeding on low levels of ethanol contamination. The cross-contamination could be due to switch loading or manifolded vent systems, although the report urges further study to establish the "causal link." The acetic acid is deposited throughout the system when it is dispersed into the humid vapor space (ranging from 72 percent to 95 percent) by the higher vapor pressure and by disturbances during fuel deliveries. This results in a cycle of wetting and drying of the equipment concentrating the acetic acid on the metallic equipment and corrodes "it quite severely and rapidly."
Battelle recommends further research on this issue.
 

Captaincarrier

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The red goop we find in fuel tanks is linked to one of the many additive that are added to the fuel. What most folks don't know "once the fuel additive is open, it is usually expired in 12 months". Most additive for diesel are for the killing of the bugs, and like I noted in an earlier post, the bugs are there as long as the water is there. The solid type deposits we find in diesel fuel tanks can range from like coffee grounds (a sure bet the owner was adding a biocide) to like broken peanut brittle (a sure bet of an expired additive). The not so solid type deposits found in diesel fuel can range from oysters to pancake syrup. The oyster is from water and the pancake syrup is from heated fuel being returned in to a less than half full tank. Fuel conditions in gasoline tanks have their own problems.
 

axeman

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I am just recovering from this same (rust) issue. Much research here and on thetruckstop got me to drop the tank, thoroughly cleanse,replace. Changed my fueling setup to goldenrod 10 micron frb10 factory 5 micron. The goldenrod has a clear plastic bowl so that i can see if crud is building up.
The tank sock was plugged solid! I went through numerous filters before finally dropping the tank to be rid of the tank sock. That stuff even plugs up the last filter. Get to it before it leaves you stranded somewhere. The wife and ktyids lose faith very quickly on the side of the road.
 

top_prop

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I am just recovering from this same (rust) issue. Much research here and on thetruckstop got me to drop the tank, thoroughly cleanse,replace. Changed my fueling setup to goldenrod 10 micron frb10 factory 5 micron. The goldenrod has a clear plastic bowl so that i can see if crud is building up.
The tank sock was plugged solid! I went through numerous filters before finally dropping the tank to be rid of the tank sock. That stuff even plugs up the last filter. Get to it before it leaves you stranded somewhere. The wife and ktyids lose faith very quickly on the side of the road.
I completely agree. Truck is grounded until I get the time to pull the tank... started working on the skid plate but as I welded the hitch to the bumper in an effort to reinforce the pintle mount... I have to cut the welds and pull the hitch off now. And I've got a friend in town visiting... guess I'll get to work over the 4 day weekend. Thinking about ordering a tank and sending unit and just swapping them in instead of cleaning... there's some light rust on the outside of the tank and for $200 I can swap in new.

ETA: Anybody got common part numbers for M1009 fuel tanks and sending units? The auto parts place say that either a 31 gallon (GM14B ~$99/.00) or 25 gallon tank (GM15B ~$129.00) are appropriate, but I can't get them to cross to the GM number in the 20P for the tank (14050685)... and my eyes go crossed when I try to figure out sending units...
 
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usmcpatriot

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For what it's worth, I 've put so much garbage in my tank, I sometimes wonder when she'll tank. No pun intended. My usual concoction is some sulphur additive, marine 2 oil, atf, kerosene, and dieselclean, run til close to empty. Change my fuel filter every 3 months. And of course had my tank removed scrubbed and cleaned, with a new sender.
 

doghead

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The part tech manuals list GM part numbers.
 

top_prop

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The part tech manuals list GM part numbers.
I know.. and I posted the GM part number for the tank above... but its not cross referencing... so I was hoping that someone who made the swap would be able to state what number (GM14B = 31 Gallon or GM15B = 25 Gallon) they were sucessful using... I guess I'll just put a tape to my tank once I get it out, order the new one and wait... Got it down to two corroded straps that I'll need to remove and the tank will be loose.

ETA local shop was just sucessfull of cross referencing the GM part number to the 25 gallon, GM15B...
 
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top_prop

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clogged sock.jpg
Sock clogged with gunk.

Rusty inside.
rusty inside.jpg

Lessons learned... just cut the old 1/4" and 3/8" fuel lines when removing the tank. The ground for the tank is by the drivers rear wheel in the M1009. Fourth line on old sending unit was for fuel removal... as new unit didn't have it, I just removed it from the frame. New sending unit comes without return line inside the tank connected to the down tube, and zip ties were crimping. Take a look go slow and set it up right the first time!

Waiting on new filler neck and vent lines from LMC (only place I could find tem).

I also plan on abandoning the old metal line between the sending unit and the primary filter for my electric pump, and just going with one hose from the sending unit to the primary filter (less joints and hopefully less chance of failure).

Hope this helps someone.
 
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usmcpatriot

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My sock looked worse than the one your showing. Albeit mine was black from the biodiesel. If I may? Have you thought of keeping the old one and getting the left side tank with a diverter valve, and have two tanks. Just thinking.
 
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