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rear axle seal & bearing orientation

g2065g

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Is this correct? Plan to put it all back together today.

I don't have the seals/bearings with me to take a pic and ask so this terrible drawing will have to do.

bearings and seals.jpg

I do not have the cork or rubber insert but I will be using rtv which was explained to me in another post.

Thanks in advance.
 

clinto

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Yupp. I'd let the rtv cure for awhile before moving the vehicle.
 

g2065g

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Thanks for the replies.

It will sit a nice long while before moving. I have to rebuild or replace the MC. Bled the brakes, no air, pedal squishy. Pulled back the boot and it was full of fluid. So I will be pulling it today also to see if this will be a $35 or $100 repair. I read the TM on it looks straight forward. One part mentions keeping the pedal from moving for ease. I assume that means just put something under the pedal to keep it from dropping to the floor.
 

Floridianson

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I think the peddel is not so much the problem but the one bolt that looks hard to get to if the last person was a good mechanic. Use a long extension and a swivel sockett to reach it. Also after you remove the brake Hyd. line remove the brass fitting that is in the end of the master where the hyd.line screws in. Do this fitting and line before you remove the bolts that hold the master in. Oh If I rember correctly you will have to feel the head of you sockett and bolt match to get the tough bolt out. Close your eyes and see the bolt be the sockett. lol
I will not comment on the rtv.
 
Last edited:

g2065g

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Wish I read the post about the 1 bolt before I went at it. SONOFA... anyways I got it out with a socket and long extension. A swivel woulda been nice but didn't need it. Also draining the lower portion woulda been a bonus but live and learn I guess. Also whoever installed it didn't put the lock washer on one of the bolts so only half the bolt head was showing. Almost stripped it but got it off too and will replace it. I got gear oil rtv. Supposed to be good to 500 deg and be for gear oil. I have read make an insert and do not equally so I skipped it and used the rtv. If it starts leaking there I will use one. I'm sure it will not be the last time I replace seals anyways. Tomorrow I will inspect inside the cylinder better but it looks nice and smooth at first glance. I suppose I should hone it anyways before rebuilding it.

$37 shipped for a rebuild kit a good price? Not sure if I can find one local.

Another question. The TM says to mark the nut and take it off the shaft. When I took the pin out the shaft just came out of the MC. Is that supposed to happen? The whole shaft, nut and bracket all came out in one piece.
 

Tow4

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I used the Ultra-Black Permatex in place of the cork and also the drive axle to hub gasket. No leaks observed.
 

welldigger

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The shaft just fits into a divet in the MC plunger. The rubber boot will sometimes hold it in but its supposed to come out. It will make sense when you pull the boot off the MC to rebuild it.
 

g2065g

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I wasn't confused really about if it should come out or not. I guess I just meant that the TM says to take the nut off and mark it and all that but the shaft just fell out and there was no need to mark it or take the nut off. Also near the end it has a recessed area that looked like it might have had a lock ring there. I took it all apart and I see that it just sits down in there. Having now done the job of removing it I see that it is pretty easy and straight forward. The rebuild looks simple. I will have to get a diagram of how the parts go back in as it all just fell out when I removed the retaining clips. I'm sure a search here will do the trick.

the cotter pin was also missing which would be dangerous I suppose if the spring broke.

Thanks all for your input.
 
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