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Rear Axle Trouble

M1009 Fiend

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Costa Mesa/Corona, Ca
Well i started my m1009 for the first time in a week drove it around a little and noticed a slight grinding noise in the rear. Well i figured it was just something rattling around back there, so i dismissed it. Later i when to a little mud hole in front of my school. after stopping a disengaging 4 wheel drive i heard the grinding was back and louder than before.
So my roommate got out and listened while i rolled forward and we thing that the bearings are shot...:evil::evil::evil:

So any help or ideas welcome...

Also if you are the Northern California Region and have a spare rear axle feel free to PM me.
 
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Sgt Hulka

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San Francisco CA
Check the fluid level. And use a limited slip additive. Preferably GM brand (even though the TM doesn't call for that.) Try the cheap, easy stuff first. Although reviled by serious off-roaders, I really, really like the Eaton Gov-Loc and have no trouble with mine. Age and condition of differential fluid makes a much bigger difference than you might imagine...
 

4bogginchevys

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rathdrum idaho
maybe you got some dirt/sand crap in the drums....try a stream of water through the gap between backing plate and drum, dont be surprised when brown and black water somes washing out. A thorough washing like that works on my mud truck!:p
 

kenny

Member
186
2
18
Location
San Antonio Texas
put it on 4 jack stands and put it in gear in 4wd and then look around. I have had mud dried up in the drums and rotors that made a grinding noise.

But first check the oil level
 

wkbrdngsnw

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Aurora,Co
When I got mine it had a terrible grinding noise in the rear end because the pinion bearing was pretty much gone. That's usually not an instant thing, though.

I would start checking U-joints since they are easy. Then put it up on the stands and spin it. Also, don't be scared to pull the dif cover since its usually very apparent if there is a problem in there and the fluid probably needs changing anyway.
 

jimm1009

Well-known member
1,163
68
48
Location
Louisville, KY
CUCV brakes

It could also be a broken return spring for the shoes or also a rock that
got weged in there.
Jack it up, remove the wheel, and then remove the drum. If they have never been removed there are two or three star washer style retainers over the studs that hold the drum on with the wheel removed.
Just take a pair of wire cutters and cut them off as they are not needed.
The drum may need a block of wood with a hammer to be removed but I would certainly check the inside of the drum as it is quick and easy and costs nothing to do other than about 20 to 30 minutes of your time.
Be safe, use a jack stand and floor or bottle jack. Keep all your fingers and toes attached to your body.
NOTE: You can not remove the wheel with the parking brake set. Had to say it as it is easy to forget.
Let us know what you find.
jimm1009
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
ivar take the housing off and re fill the fluid and use posi additive. your axle is a c clip style you can take the axle out and have a new bearing pressed on the axle shaft if its a bad bearing. there are lots of people on pirate 4x4 who have blazers who gwet rid of your axle for 14ff axles so if you need parts check that place out also. i dont think you need a new axle just yet.
 

M1009 Fiend

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Costa Mesa/Corona, Ca
Thanks For all the advice.

How noticeable is it? With careful, cautious driving is it transparent?
Yes it is really noticeable with careful driving.

I think that i will change/check oil, and wash/remove the drums a hope that is my problem.

But on the plus side Saturday Cal Maritime Rugby Beat Fresno State 77-5.
I had to add this because i wasn't able to work on my truck this weeknd because of the game.
 
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Sgt Hulka

New member
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Location
San Francisco CA
How noticeable is it? With careful, cautious driving is it transparent?
In my experience the gov loc is pretty transparent if the fluid is good. Occasionally under load on turns I'll notice it a bit. But even that has diminished since the fluid change. And it works locks up tight as a drum with wheel slip. I don't drive with any special care. Just normally and prudently...
 

Sgt Hulka

New member
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Location
San Francisco CA
You are correct. And the TMs DO NOT call for additive. I only put it in after strong recommendations from this board, knowing it would, at worst, do no harm... The unit is working great. Like you I doubt if the additive is doing much except possibly increasing the longevity of the fluid...
 

Crackerjax

New member
176
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Location
Fuquay, North Carolina
I had a joint go bad in my drive shaft that sounded horrid....definitly jack it up put her on stands and go over all the moving parts and brakes...change gear oil and try again....no need for a new axle unless your is really boogered up and if it was you most likely could not drive it.... this will be a good time to learn ....go forth and fix..and hope its not a pinion problem.
 

M1009 Fiend

New member
213
0
0
Location
Costa Mesa/Corona, Ca
Well Gentlemen i found the problem

There was a bolt in the bottom of my driver side drum, i just need to find out what it is

Any ideas???

The only noticeable thing that i though it could be is it looks like there was a bolt in one of the holes in the upper left side of the picture. But i dont know what it would hold...:lost:
 

Attachments

burbn10

New member
142
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0
Location
Lake Villa, IL
Hmmm.... That's a good one! I can't really tell from the picture, but is your E-Brake hooked up? That has a large pin and washer like that to hold it to the brake shoe. (Think it is in that hole in the lower-left of your pic) I can't see the rest of the brake system, so I'm not saying that is what it is, but I'm just guessing from the pictures. I wish you luck!

Does that bolt have an "H" shaped head? From picture 1 it looks possibly like a brake cylinder pushrod.
 
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