• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Rear Suspension Question

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
What's the best way to remove the top torque arms on the rear suspension? I can get to the mounts on the axle and remove them easy enough the problem I got is trying to get the two that go on the passenger side on the top behind the leaf spring... I could take the whole spring off but would prefer just to take the nuts off the torque arms can't seem to get anything in there... Also does anyone know what size those nuts are? Any suggestions on how to press the old bushings out and new ones in?
Thanks
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,088
9,248
113
Location
Mason, TN
Shave a 2-1/4" wrench down and the open end will fit or a thin type of wrench works fine or buy a socket.and cut down as such shown below

Just as easy to use a extension and 1-1/2" socket and remove the leave spring bolts pretty quick. Remove the upper lift shackle and use the socket on em.
 

Attachments

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
Thanks for the pic I got exactly what you're saying now should save me some time.... good idea. Also noticed when I was looking for new bushings there's rubber bushing and metal bushings other than the price is there really a big difference in the two?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,088
9,248
113
Location
Mason, TN
Metal bushings are costly and not worth it I have worn out the heavy duty ends. Add a rear safety bar or just use the truck and you wont have issues. Unused rubber is the worst kind. Stock bushings with normal useage will prevent failures.

As far as pressing them in and out. Just need something made to the exact size of the outer bushing to fit inside the rod end
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
311
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Drill and tap new stock ones with a threaded hole to bolt on a retainer plate. Quickly and easily done on a lathe before installation. Old ones press out easily with a shell of an old one. New ones press in by just pushing on the solid center, use lube.

I used the shaved wrench, then pulled it rearward with a truck and strap, came loose easily. Just sheared all cotter pins, did not remove any. Did all 6 bones at once, truck on ground. Went well.

Good info in this thread. My work is post #60 and on with pictorials if you want some ideas:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?167166-All-5-tons-Heavy-Duty-Torque-Rod-Ends/page6
 
Last edited:

Olly

Member
127
6
18
Location
Bristol/CT
guess you lucked out that you noticed it. I agree I think thats a major flaw in the suspension, hoping to come up with a better solution than stock cause they don't seem to be that reliable.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,088
9,248
113
Location
Mason, TN
Incorrect. They are reliable. You just need to make sure your truck is in road worthy condition. The issue is that most of these trucks just sit, and sit some more and then someone decides to go for a drive. Everyone worries about their tires having dry rot but do not realize that everything else rubber on the truck can have dry rot to. The less usage for rubber the more it fatigues and is not flexible. This is what causes it to pop off the end like that after the rubber has just gave out.

I have 3 torque rods that have rubber inserts and 3 that have the metal ones. I chose the metal ones for the upper rods due to what could happen if they came apart and the chaos it can do. However I have had the metal ones wear out well before the rubber ones. I drive on all types of road conditions including some of the worst paved roads you will ever ride on and I have not had an issue out of the rubber ones. and we are talking 240,000 plus miles on rubber ones. The key is usage. Or keeping them protected so that they do not fatigue.
 

BenRoberts

Certified insane
1,367
208
63
Location
southwest/ohio
I've used an air chisel to get the nut to start turning. It works out pretty good. The collar size is exactly 4" od for pressing them in and out
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks