remote mount turbo

[cldh35611]

Has anyone thought of a remote mount tubo like the sts turbos?

 

[jwaller]

sure but why not just do it on the motor. much cheaper and easier. much less plumbing and no elec oil pump to fail

 

[hobie237]

Remote mount turbo would theoretically be easier than a traditional mount, because you wouldn't have to screw around with manifolds and whatnot, just flange the exhaust pipe wherever you want, bolt in the turbo, run another pipe up to the intake, done.

Disadvantages, of course, would be lag and potential damage to the turbo itself, since it'll be hanging out where it's exposed to road debris and water much more than it would be if it was high up in the engine bay.

 

[cldh35611]

It doesnt seem like it would be extremely hard! Is there anything special that would be needed? What size or kind of turbo would be needed. How much boost does the banks system have? I was thinking about plumbing it out back with a seperate oil reservoir and maybe a cooler with an electric pump hooked to the ingntion. Then a boost pipe going forward straight into the intake. Do I need anything else or am I over simplifing it??? Since the motor is control by fuel I dont think it will need a blow off valve. How could I control the level of boost to optimize power and economy. I have never put a turbo on anything! I need input! I would like to do this as cheap as possible!

 

[hobie237]

You'll need to up the fuel flow into the engine (I don't think the stock injection pump is good for a whole lot of fuel delivery) to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio, that's it. Blowoff valve would not be necessary, as there is no throttle plate that's going to slam shut. Boost would be controlled via the turbo's wastegate (internal to the turbo or external) which controls the amount of exhaust going through and spooling the turbo.

As for what turbo to use, just remember that smaller gives less on the top end, but faster spool, with larger turbos being generally the opposite (although this isn't an absolute). You'll want a ball bearing turbo to minimize lag, variable vane or "variable geometry" would be ideal to minimize lag (like the Aerodyne on my Miata), but more expensive. Cooling and oil supplies would be more difficult in a remote setup, but not unbearable, especially if you use a turbo with a self-contained oil supply as you mention (again, like the Aerodyne unit on my Miata), although these units sometimes have issues with longevity.

No, you can't have my Aerodyne.

 

[cldh35611]

Well I guess you could turn the pump up as far as possible even though I may have excess air supply. That should not hurt a diesel motor, right? As long as I watch the exhaust gas temp and it doesn't go over 1000 deg in a fully loaded pull.

If I tapped the stock oil system do you think I would need to add a pump to help the flow?

I think the banks system uses a garett T4 turbo? Is is internally or externally wastegated? Would you start with low boost like 6lbs and then slowly work up?

 

[hobie237]

Running lean won't cause the same issues on a diesel as it would on a gas motor (diesels don't really mind running lean that much) but I still wouldn't recommend it, as if you're running lean, you do risk the high exhaust temps causing damage, but you also aren't making as much power as you could be with a proper mixture. I'd consider upgrading to a better injection pump.

I have no idea what the stock oil pump is good for, but I'd imagine the pressure drop over the length of plumbing that may be necessary for such a setup could be pretty bad- you run the risk of starving the motor and/or turbo of oil, neither of which would be pretty. I suppose you could run some sort of auxiliary electric pump just for the turbo, though.

Don't know what turbo the Banks kit uses nor do I know it's specs. I don't see why it matters, though, for what you're doing.

You may also consider bolting on all the 6.5L turbodiesel stuff, as my understanding is that it'll all just bolt on, and you stand a decent chance of finding it in a junkyard.

 

[tsmall07]

I've thought about doing the same but I was mostly concerned with dirt, water, and debris since my truck sees a lot of off road time. The self contained oil supply turbo would DEFINITELY be easier. Running the intake line would be simple because you could use soft hose to do it. The other problem is (at least on my truck) I'd either have to install a y-pipe or run 2 turbos. 2 small turbos may be where its at as far as low lag time and still reasonable power. Let me know how it goes for you.

 

[hobie237]

My buddy and I poked around under my truck to see what we could do, as we highly considered this for one of his trucks. I don't want it because of the off-road use I put my truck through, but for his it'd be OK I think since he basically only drives on road.

2 small turbos would be preferable to one big one, although a Y pipe wouldn't be too hard to fab up under there, and then you'd only have to flange it once for the turbo.

 

[res0wc18]

remote mount turbos can be great, but they need to have large oil supplies and coolers, with some massive skid plates to protect them. The main benefit is the drop in charge temperature as well as the possible simplicity. For a duece though unless you are going to be in mud up to your frame i dont see a problem with one just make sure you protect it.

 

[hobie237]

Just to be clear, are we talking about a CUCV or a Deuce?

 

[tsmall07]

AFAIK, this thread is about the CUCV given the section it is posted in.

 

[CDN-CUCV]

I have been repeatedly advised against turbocharging my 6.2, Banks kit or other due to the risk of snapping a crank or worse, cracking the block. The cost is somewhat prohibative as well, even though this seems to be a popular mod for CUCV's. It'd suck, after all that hard work of intallation, to have your engine grenade on you with all that added torque(been there, lesson learned the hard way!!)
If you still want to go ahead and install a turbo, research the heck out of it and I'd suggest running a lower boost 6-8 psi max. At 15 psi you double the power load and adds stresses to a motor that wasn't originally designed to take it. As for remote systems, more cost and more lag, so I couldn't really justify it for myself. Look into what it takes to build up a 6.2 for a turbo, stronger rods, pistons, bottom-end bolts from ARP etc. for added insurance. You can't fire a cannon from a canoe you know

 

[hobie237]

Crank snapping is mostly due to a failed harmonic balancer. Block cracking is mostly due to the alloys used. These are issues with or without a turbo.

AFAIK, this thread is about the CUCV given the section it is posted in.

That's what I thought, just wanted to be sure, since somebody mentioned a deuce.

 

[CDN-CUCV]

Crank snapping is mostly due to a failed harmonic balancer. Block cracking is mostly due to the alloys used. These are issues with or without a turbo.





That's what I thought, just wanted to be sure, since somebody mentioned a deuce.

these are things that I've been told are common with 6.2's that have been turbo'ed. This comes from a friend who has been in the diesel engine repair business for 30+ years. Just thought I'd pass on his advice to me. I'm not a mechanic.

 

[84cucv1ton]

i cam across these a while back.....

 

[Westech]

that first pic is a cucv for sure! its got the dual alts. That sure does look cool like this

 

[hobie237]

these are things that I've been told are common with 6.2's that have been turbo'ed. This comes from a friend who has been in the diesel engine repair business for 30+ years. Just thought I'd pass on his advice to me. I'm not a mechanic.

Yeah, it's common in turbo'd 6.2s, but it's also common in non-turbo 6.2s. I could see the added cylinder pressure of the turbo doing more damage to a crank with a failed balancer (although, at the end of the day, the balancer was the problem, fix it and you'd be fine), but the locations of the block cracks that tend to form would somewhat lead one to believe that they'd be unrelated to cylinder pressures.