Removed gauge cluster trim, now dead gauge and Gen 1 light

[Glockamolie]

Ok, I was installing an oil pressure gauge, so I removed the dash surround trim around the gauge cluster. I installed the gauge (mechanical) into the radio block plate, and reinstalled. I had to unplug the battery/amp meter gauge to do the work. I reinstalled the gauge wiring as it was previously. The battery gauge is over to full left, and does not move. The Gen 1 light is on when the truck is running now. I checked the heater fuse, as I know if it blows the Gen 1 doesn't function (exiter). So, what did I likely disturb just taking the face trim off and reinstalling? I didn't even wire a light to my new gauge, so it was simply remove the trim, drill a hole for my new gauge, and put back together. I have 2 new batteries, and never seen the Gen 1 light any other time, so it had to be something I touched.

 

[gungearz]

This all can only mean one thing... Take it all back apart and recheck your work. You couldve done anything to cause it. We weren't there helping you to see what couldve happened. This happens to all of us and we just go back and retrace our steps...

 

[cpf240]

Did you disconnect the batteries before removing & reinstalling the panel? It is very easy to short the voltmeter leads to the metal of the dash. I would check for a blown fuse or burnt fusible link.

I wouldn't think the volt meter not working would effect GEN 1, but can't say for sure.

 

[timarr]

Is it possible you shook the diode loose that is taped to the wire harness behind the volt gauge . Mine wasnt seated right when I removed my cluster. And one of my gen liights were always on,just cant remember which one. Its worth a shot!
Tim

 

[Glockamolie]

After just generally poking around, I see that the Gen 1 light isn't on when it's running, but the gauge is still dead. There is no power getting to the gauge. I'm not very good with electrical schematics, so where does the gauge get power? I'm going to TRY to check out the manuals...

 

[doghead]

Look at the lowest fuse in the box. At the very bottom.

 

[Glockamolie]

Bottom fuse is good but is getting no power with the key on or off.

 

[doghead]

OK, I'm guessing you did not disconnect your battery cables when you did the dash disassembly. You may have grounded the volt gauge mount and cause whatever damage we are looking for.

I would have guessed the fuse(bottom) would have blown. You may have a burnt out fusible link at the 24 volt Buss bar on the firewall(passenger side). It will be a red wire with a black rubber section. You need to poke into the insulation on either side of the black rubber area and test for continuity(also check resistance/ohms). That may be your issue.

If it is not, you may have burnt out something in the through the firewall connector or behind the fuse box.

I am fairly sure what I have posted is correct, but Warthog usually covers these issues and is much more up on the wiring than I am.

 

[Glockamolie]

Well, I knew better than to mess with the dash with the batteries hooked up, but I DID do some tweaking of the panel after I hooked the batteries back up. Essentially, the panel is missing a few screws, and a few places have the screw holes messed up...so yeah, it's possible I did that after hooking the batteries back up.

Quick question: What else will I be missing if the fusible link is burned out?

I'll take a look and report back. Thank you for your help thus far!

My favorite part is that the positive terminal is on the side of the gauge nearest the metal dash panel, perfectly lined up to short out should you shift if over just a tad.

 

[cpf240]

My favorite part is that the positive terminal is on the side of the gauge nearest the metal dash panel, perfectly lined up to short out should you shift if over just a tad.

That, and the fact that it is hot all the time... why they decided to switch the GROUND side of the meter I have no idea...

 

[donalloy1]

Did you disconnect the batteries before removing & reinstalling the panel? It is very easy to short the voltmeter leads to the metal of the dash. I would check for a blown fuse or burnt fusible link.

I wouldn't think the volt meter not working would effect GEN 1, but can't say for sure.

I agree with cpf240! Have been down this road before. Check Fuse Box. Should be simple fix. Always unhook batts before any operation!

 

[Glockamolie]

I agree with cpf240! Have been down this road before. Check Fuse Box. Should be simple fix. Always unhook batts before any operation!

The fuse associated with the gauge was OK, but it's not getting power at the fuse panel, which makes me think (as stated) that it's a fusible link. I just need to find which one it is.

 

[Warthog]

The fusible link that supplies power to the starter relay (your truck starts) also supplies power to the very bottom fuse. The left side of the fuse holder will be hot at all times.

If the truck is starting and no power is at the left side of the fuse then the is an issue with you wiring harness that goes beyond a simple diagnoses.

The bottom 24v fuse suppllies direct power to the voltmeter and the Gen2 exciter circuit.

 

[erniemigi]

My Father in law got me a new 24volt guage but on the back it only has 2 post not like the 3 that was on the original, i have power leading to it but when i plug it in it doesn't read at all, any body have a clue as to what might be causing this, fuse is good, no burnt fusible links, had the gauge tested and it works fine just not when i hook it up, the ground wire is still good, i'm at a lost for this one, i would like to get it working as he had passed away almost a year ago and i feel that i owe it to him

 

[gungearz]

The third wire isn't hooked up... That's the problem. You need to get the same one that came out of there and put it back the way it was...

 

[Warthog]

The stock system uses the VM relay to complete the ground circuit. Hot is on all the time and ground is open until the key is on and the relay is energized completing the circuit.

What type of gauge are you attempting to install?

 

[erniemigi]

The third wire isn't hooked up... That's the problem. You need to get the same one that came out of there and put it back the way it was...

not sure what you mean by third wire, when i took the dash apart originaly and the old one was still hooked up there was only 2 wires

 

[erniemigi]

The stock system uses the VM relay to complete the ground circuit. Hot is on all the time and ground is open until the key is on and the relay is energized completing the circuit.

What type of gauge are you attempting to install?

i gave him the old gauge and he got one with the same #s but it only has 2 post on the back