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Replacement Gen 1 altenator

davidkroberts

Active member
1,453
22
38
Location
west tennessee
I have used the autozone altenator on several vehicles and they all bolted onto the back of the case. Ive never had an issue. Yeap firewall drivers side is where i had my problems. Two post bridge connection with a bunch of hotwires coming from it.
 

mthomas5620

New member
3
0
0
Location
macon Ga
Have I mentioned yet that I hate working on electrical stuff? Love CUCV's and hate electrical work; what a rotten combination.

So today, my only day off I get for God knows when I finally am getting to finish getting my altenators back on. The Gen 2 bench tested fine and went back on. I put the Duralast 7175 replacement from the Wiki on the Gen 1 side. It is not isolated ground, and only has a hole with a bolt that goes into it to put the ground wire on. I thought this wasn't a problem.

I got everything hooked back up and when I go to install the negative cable on the front battery, I have now smoked a fusable link that is connected to the rear battery cable that runs to the firewall right in front of the drivers side. I get no sparks at all until I go to hook up the negative cable on the front battery; then it's the 4th of July. I hooked the batteries back up in the correct order: pos rear, pos front, neg rear, neg front.

Is my ground on my new Gen 1 maybe causing this? I'm afraid I am going to run out of daylight before I can get it running and it's frustrating.
Did you get this resolved? I am haveing the exact same problem except to add the Gen 1 light does not come on at all. Any Ideas where to start looking. The fusable links at the wiring harness all look good.
Thanks
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,775
227
63
Location
OKC, OK
Did you get this resolved? I am haveing the exact same problem except to add the Gen 1 light does not come on at all. Any Ideas where to start looking. The fusable links at the wiring harness all look good.
Thanks
The place to start is with the troubleshooting section of the TM 9-2320-289-20 technical manual.

You do have the free copies downloaded don't you?

We need to know if your truck is stock. What you have checked and what your confort level with troubleshooting electrical issues.

It could be as simple as a bad fuse, bad dash light or as bad as fried wiring.

**** EDIT **** because more info has come to light

Looking back at your first post about a bad starter and blowing fuses, you never posted if you got it fixed. So whats up with the other issue?

Not trying to be an arse but you are not giving us all the info that will help with the issue.
 
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mthomas5620

New member
3
0
0
Location
macon Ga
Hey Warthog, No worries about being an arse, sometimes I need a kick in it. I had those earlier starter issues resolved after I burned up the starter by not following your advice about the starter relay mod. got that taken care of and things went fine for a while untill the OE Gen 1 went out. I had it rebuilt and it was fine for almost a year. Then a few weeks ago the brake lights went out and the right rear light went very dim but not all the way out. In conjuntion with that the blinkers would act erratically, sometimes work somtimes not. This is my 17 year old sons truck so he drives it every day and because i am out of town a lot I dont get to see it and look it over daily. So one one of those days that I am traveling he calls and says he smells elictrical burning under the hood and gen 1 was very very hot. It came to pass that the Gen 1 had stopped working . then the gen 2 light woudl blink as the turn signals were used. After replaceing the gen 1 with the caddilac alternator the battery sparked and the gen 1 light will not come on at all. Also the lights in the back will now burn bright as always but the brake lights still wont work. Also, the blackout lights now burn whenever the service lights are on. They have never workd at all untill now. Every other electrical issue works great as if nothing is wrong. I have not had a chance to test the alternator to see what it is putting out but I have to assume that with the Gen light not coming on at all somthing is wrong. Fusable link or something but I dont know whare to start. My son says the links at the engine harness are good and those are the only ones I know about.

The truck is stock witht he exception of a couple 12 volt recepticles put in and a radio. I am pretty handy as well as my som but elecrical is out week link. I ahve not been able to really find a solution in the TM and that Is why I am reaching out to see what you experts have to add.

I thank you
 

sarge1

New member
46
1
0
Location
MO.
I think you have a different issue than I had. My issue was stupidity. I hadn't clearly understood what an isolated ground was at the time and when I had hooked my Gen 2 alt back up, I hadn't properly put the fiber washer in the right spot. DOH! Got it switched around, and many new fusible link replacements later, it works like a charm.

On a side note, something to watch out for is that the replacement alt's being sold at parts stores don't always have the right pulley. The first one I got, was the right part number and everything but had a smaller pulley. I was still able to get it tightened without hitting the stop, but it chewed the crap out of a belt and when I took it back, they got me another Gen 1, same part number mind you, with the correct pulley and all has been good ever since I put that one on.
 

Oldsouthernboy

New member
164
0
0
Location
Jacksonville, al
I have a local rebuild shop who will for a few extra dollars, replace the broken generator casing he quoted 15.00 plus a 60.00 rebuild fee. Check your local shop, or find a scrap yard they always have a bin of scrap to look through for good casings.
 
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