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Replacing Exterior Bolts with Stainless

EricSoWavy

New member
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Washington
It seems like for some of the higher end restorations, this is a common practice to do, to replace all fasteners around the exterior, engine bay, interior with stainless hardware. Trim stuff mostly - probably not the bolts that hold on the body etc.

But what's the best way to go about this? To try and find the thread pitch and lengths of each bolt one by one would be tedious. Might be better to just buy a big bundle and have extras, but does anyone know approximately what all the sizes are and approximate quantities?
 

Coug

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Olympia/WA
Some people do stainless and don't have any real issues, but those people tend to live in places like deserts or whatnot that don't have a lot of moisture.
High humidity areas, and especially areas with saltwater, galvanic corrosion will totally wreck the aluminum.
Even when bolting steel items to the bodywork, I tend to use some type of barrier between the metals whenever I can.
 

DREDnot

Well-known member
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Location
Phoenix, AZ
Really a waste of money and stainless fasteners are much weaker than steel and you need to put anti-sieze on all the threads or they gall when tightened and tend to snap when you need to loosen or remove them. Dont do it.
 

Vapor Trail

Well-known member
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Location
Kentucky
I've heard rumors a lot about galvanic corrosion but unless you're in saltwater I've never seen it be a problem. It's not just stainless to aluminum, it's dissimilar metals which there is a ton of already on every vehicle. Every aluminum engine and head and differential on cars is held together with steel bolts with no issue. Personally, we've been using stainless bolts on aluminum jobs for years at work and have never had any issues. If you have the energy to look it up in all that garbage that is the manuals it lists them out but I'm currently doing the same thing except with every single bolt in the vehicle. The best thing to do is buy the wooden test strip that hangs on the wall at the hardware store from McMaster Carr. It has every male and female thread pitch sample on it and you can take them out as you go and buy them. It's a long process.
 
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Vapor Trail

Well-known member
198
261
63
Location
Kentucky
I'm probably going to buy stainless and have the heads cerakoted black. People are really going to lose their minds then. HAHA
 
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87cr250r

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Rodeo, Ca
There are inorganic aluminum-zinc coatings that are far superior to plated fasteners and perform almost as well as stainless with less seizing issues.. Dacromet is a common trade name.


I am a little embarrassed to share the link to their website. It has nothing to do with the product the sell.
 
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Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Olympia/WA
There are inorganic aluminum-zinc coatings that are far superior to plated fasteners and perform almost as well as stainless with less seizing issues.. Dacromet is a common trade name.


I am a little embarrassed to share the link to their website. It has nothing to do with the product the sell.
I'd be embarrassed too. With the nonsense speak they start out their description with, I'd be hesitant to try any of their products. WTF does "powered by a multi regional synergy" even mean?
 

rcamacho

Well-known member
765
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Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Galvanic corrosion is bad enough on the armored trucks. Stainless on aluminum will be worse unless real care is taken with mitigation. Think non conductive sleeves, washers and plastic sheeting.
 
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