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Replacing floor in M38A1

honeaj

New member
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Location
McEwen, Tennessee
I purchased an M38A1, 1963 USMC, that I want to rebuild. Very little rust but wanted to remove hat channels to make sure rust was under control. After seeing condition, I decided to look into replacing the floor. How is the best way to remove the old floor without cutting holes in the side panels. Also, where is the best place to buy a replacement floor panel. Thanks in advance for any help/advice.
 

Bravo2Uniform

Member
253
21
18
Location
McMinnville, TN
I have a couple of floor panels and hat channel for a rebuild that didn't materialize. They are primed and painted and ready to install. I'd love to sell them to you.
 
Last edited:

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
Hat channels are available by themselves. Replacing the front and rear floor is brutal, zillions of spot welds have to be cut between the floor and everything else. And then the front floor does not go all the way up the firewall, so you have to weld a seam which is no fun. All the Jeep parts dealers have the floors, Midwest Military makes their own, all the others come from MDJuan (also a good product).
 

honeaj

New member
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Location
McEwen, Tennessee
Thanks for all the info. I have already tried to cut the spot welds without satisfactory results, leaving holes in floor. Hence, the idea to replace whole front floor pan. I still don't know how to remove the floor from the side wall without leaving holes in the side wall. I think I will cut the floor out with cutting wheel then grinding the rest of the material off. Has anyone done this? Bravo2Uniform, where do you live and how much do you want for the floors and hat channels? I live in McEwen, TN about an hour West of Nashville. Would drive to your location if not too far. Again, thanks for all the info and suggestions.
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
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Location
Gravette Ar.
Get a spot weld cutter , they look like drills. They are made to cut/drill thought the spot weld but not the other panel.
 

honeaj

New member
5
0
0
Location
McEwen, Tennessee
I have one. The kind I have necks down like a rife shell and will not let me get close to the welds on the hat channels without hitting the side of the hat channel and I end up cutting at an angle. There is another type that looks just like a regular drill bit that will not hit against the hat channel but haven't ordered one of them as you cannot control the depth of cut. I'm just trying to find out other ways of skinning this cat. Thanks for the response and info. Jerry
 

Bravo2Uniform

Member
253
21
18
Location
McMinnville, TN
Bravo2Uiform, how much are you asking for the floor panels and how far do you live from Nashville,TN?
I apologize for the lateness of this reply, I have been offgrid / offline for over two months. I live in Buford, GA but travel to McMinnville frequently. I can sell you both for $ 50.00 apiece.
 
308
11
16
Location
Bear Creek PA
After your done replacing them, coat them with ZINC RICH primer. We use it on everything. I found it stops the rust dead. We have one dozer painted with it and it has not started to peel or have rust popping out for the past seven years sitting out in the weather. We have it as a static display, as its working days are over. It just sits out in the weather day after day and has not had any rust issues yet.
 

61sleepercab

New member
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Location
Walton, West Virginia
I would suggest that you leave a lip of the floor pan welded originally to the Jeep and rest the new pans on the lip and reweld next to the body. I have learned a tip when stitch welding with a Mig is that the welding wire tip itself will glow long enough for you to see where your next spot weld will be. Good luck Mark
 
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