Replacing ignition lock cylinder M1009

[EMISSARYx]

Hi all,

I have searched this site for a good while, and tried a basic internet search, but did not find the info I am looking for. I am surprised this has not been covered, and sadly all my experience has never led me to messing with an ignition lock.

Just need to know the basic steps for replacing my ignition lock cylinder. I have replaced both door locks and the tailgate lock, this is the last lock. Don't want to waste time removing things I don't have to - like the steering wheel.

Can someone please give me a description of the steps required to replace the ignition lock cylinder?

I looked at the steering column for a few minutes, there does not seem to be a clear method at getting to the ignition lock.

Do I have to remove the steering wheel?


TIA!
Dustin
85 M1009

 

[319]

Need to pull the steering wheel and remove the lock plate. Then remove a screw and you can pull the cylinder out and put the replacement in. You'll need a steering wheel puller, lock plate depressor, snap ring pliers, and a T-20 torx (I think) screwdriver.

This has been covered a few times before.

 

[porkysplace]

Go to ; www.jatonkam35s.com download TM 9-2320-289-20P, go to section II figure 99
it is the breakdown of the collum

 

[EMISSARYx]

This has been covered a few times before.

Like I said I could not find any info from searching, I assume it has been covered with another topic or indirectly.

Well at least there is a thread now with a specific topic on this.

I'll go ahead and yank the steering wheel, and use your guidance from there!! Thanks for the reply!

 

[EMISSARYx]

Go to ; www.jatonkam35s.com download TM 9-2320-289-20P, go to section II figure 99
it is the breakdown of the collum

Got it, thank you!

I think I have enough info now, I'll bump the topic if I get stuck.

Thanks all.

 

[SPCHowe]

I just did this on my M1009 and there was no screw holding the lock cylinder in, only pure evil! No matter what I did it would not come out. I had multiple people try, had the TMs and a chilton book, no luck. Eventually I just pulled the whole housing that the lock cylinder was in to get my new lock in. Hope you don't have to go through that. Good luck!

 

[EMISSARYx]

I just did this on my M1009 and there was no screw holding the lock cylinder in, only pure evil! No matter what I did it would not come out. I had multiple people try, had the TMs and a chilton book, no luck. Eventually I just pulled the whole housing that the lock cylinder was in to get my new lock in. Hope you don't have to go through that. Good luck!

I wish I never read that.

 

[SPCHowe]

Shouldn't be that bad, I think I just got the short end of the stick

 

[Barrman]

Have the key in when you go to pull the cylinder out. It helps on some of them.

What are you doing with your old CUCV keyed locks? Shoot me a pm is you want to get rid of them.

Also, the steering shaft has a line on the end. The wheel will have a line on it. Line them back up when you put the wheel on. It really won't fit any other way and will drive you nuts unitl you notice the lines.

 

[Bob USNR]

I assume you have completed the job by now.

However there is an early model lock assy that uses a "push pin" to release the cyl. The hole you need to reach through to push the pin is not there until the cyl has been replaced the first time. You have to punch the hole your self. If you know exactly what to look for you can tell where to punch the hole.
If you have never done it before any half decent mechanic should be able to punch the hole for you.

25+ years under the hood, I have done dozens of these.

e

 

[EMISSARYx]

Have the key in when you go to pull the cylinder out. It helps on some of them.

What are you doing with your old CUCV keyed locks? Shoot me a pm is you want to get rid of them.

Also, the steering shaft has a line on the end. The wheel will have a line on it. Line them back up when you put the wheel on. It really won't fit any other way and will drive you nuts unitl you notice the lines.

Just finished a little while ago, it went pretty well.

After I got the wheel and lock plate off I was able to pull the turn signal mechanism out a little (lazy and didn't want to disconnect the wiring), just one 5/16" bolt holding the lock cylinder in. Removed bolt, cylinder came right out. To summarize, the lock cylinder removal and replacement was the easiest part - getting to it was a pita and reassembly was even more fun.

I had a few delays when putting everything back together. There was a nut of sorts that the screw that holds the turn signal lever down, it had pushed out of its socket so I had to put it back in and thread the screw lightly until it grabbed.

Biggest delay was putting the lock plate back on. The steering axle (not sure if this is correct terminology, maybe the "shaft", anyway it is what the nut holding the steering wheel grabs on to) was pushed in a some point, about an inch, so I had to pull it back out to get it back in position so the locking ring could hold the lock plate on the shaft.

I was taking it slow, all the plastic is brittle as you all know.

I still don't see how you are supposed to remove the plastic cover over the lock plate. It grabs onto the lock plate at two points, there is no clear way that I saw to pry it safely off.

Sorry I already promised the locks to my neighbor after I saw his truck with holes where the locks go.

I'd also like to tell you about the tailgate crank/lock I got from LMC. Those parts stink. All the components look like they come from different mfgs and none of them are aware that they are supposed to fit together. I had to modify the cam, cutting away some metal. I had to modify the lock (cut some springs and grind some metal) so it would latch. It took a simple job into 1/2 day affair! I am not sure what other options we have, but I would look at the cost from the dealer or something. What also made it difficult is my truck never had a lock cylinder in the tailgate, I just lowered the window by sticking a large screwdriver in the hole and rotated the crank until it grabbed. So I had nothing to reference except crappy illustrations.

I have been seeing more and more CUCV's on the road. I am not sure if it is just the timing of the govt getting rid of them, or people getting 4x4 trucks to run to the mountains when the tsunamis come.

I have put a lot of work into this truck, I'll take some pics for you all. It is the least I can do all for the help!!

 

[EMISSARYx]

I assume you have completed the job by now.

However there is an early model lock assy that uses a "push pin" to release the cyl. The hole you need to reach through to push the pin is not there until the cyl has been replaced the first time. You have to punch the hole your self. If you know exactly what to look for you can tell where to punch the hole.
If you have never done it before any half decent mechanic should be able to punch the hole for you.

25+ years under the hood, I have done dozens of these.

e

What a wonderful way to design something. Mystery punch holes.

I didn't have to add any more holes thank goodness!

You should take a picture next time you have to punch a hole, so you have it when someone has that situation!!!

 

[cheiser666]

Do you remember what size the puller bolts are for the wheel?

 

[boomer431]

5/16" coarse thead

 

[mudman]

I changed mine pretty simple, but I should have changed my blinker control as well, and didn't and now I need to disasemble again. You might want to look into it. I wish I did!!

 

[Moto2four]

Did you ever get a picture of where this hole needs to be punched? I'm posting for a buddy of mine who is trying to get his truck road ready and we hit a snag trying to get it out. Any help is appreciated.

 

[pbrstreetgang]

I had to make this repair, however i came across a different problem. My ignition lock cylinder did need
to be replaced, without question.

The real problem turned out to be the actuator that the ignition switch / lock cylinder turns
to move the rod to start the truck.

it is a small black plastic piece about
As big around as a nickel. It has teeth, like a gear to actuate ignition. The piece that sticks out for the
ignition lock switch had broken off.

i can find nothing like it on the internet.

at this point, unless i can find one
i am considering glueing it back.

 

[doghead]

That is called the sector gear.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-83221?seid=srese1&gclid=CNml3Oi_psQCFdcWgQodgzgAmw

http://www.steeringcolumnservices.c...ldsmobile-pontiac/rack00-rack-sector-gear.php

Google search, "gm steering column sector" for tons of hits.

 

[ballencd]

Old post but same problem.....I had the steering wheel off, the blinker mechanism off and there was no pin to be removed and no place I could see that needed to be broken out. Here is a picture of what I saw. Meanwhile I put it back together to wait for information. Any idea what I do from here?

The hole about 2'oclock next to the square white plastic plug with (2) copper strips coming out of it looks like that is the right location but there was no bolt.

This is on a 1984 M1010.