• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Rerouting Heater Core Inlet Hose

Somemedic

Member
531
0
16
Location
Hobart, IN
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/25580-cold-cucv-2.html#post265213

After driving the blazer a bit (and in all fairness I may not have driven all the air out yet) it seems there isnt the heat that Im GONNA have flaming out of the ducts. Im on a quest and I will have my heat (...in this life or the next!). Im guessing the routing of the block heater Y'ed into the hose that flows into the crossover tube WHICH is also the inlet to the coolant filter and then into the heater core. This heat problem thing may have been at my own hand with this splicing stuff. Id also guess that some of you guys have similar set ups to aid your cold starting and such. I cant be the only one having these problems.

The heater, with the blower on full blast, blows cool air but is fairly warm on the middle blower setting. Theres no way I can heat the cabin with the blower on high, even while doing 45mph with a cover over the grill. This dog wont hunt. Im gonna reroute these lines thusly:

1. Block heater will pull from the lower radiator hose (as it does now) and flow directly into the crossover tube. At the present moment theres a wye in this line. It shares water from the crossover with the inlet heater. I dont believe hot water is back flowing through the wye and into the block heater. Theres a check ball in the bottom and Im pretty sure its doing its job.

2. As it is, the coolant filter is all metal, acting as a heat sink and adding restriction on the inlet side of the heater core. I will switch the coolant filter to the outlet hose that flows into the radiator.

3. The plug on the water pump will be removed and a 45 degree elbow will be added. Hot water from the motor will come directly from here, flowing into the inlet side of the heater core. This flow of coolant should be at a hotter temp and at a higher volume or pressure since its coming right off the pump.

Only thing I need to know WHAT IS THE SIZE OF THE ELBOW that I will need?
 

4bogginchevys

New member
623
1
0
Location
rathdrum idaho
Rule of thumb for sizing on pipe thread is....I.D. as big as pinky finger is 3/8, middle finger 1/2, and big as your thumb is 5/8 pipe thread, I think that one is 1/2" or 5/8, use your finger!:-D
 
Last edited:

Somemedic

Member
531
0
16
Location
Hobart, IN
1/2" NPT is what mine is.

So I began to switch hoses around. After a few reviews my routing is thus:

New 1/2" nipple would be the source for my coolant filter. From the coolant filter the flow will continue into a 'y' and into the the inlet side of the heater core.

The crossover will still be a source for the heater as well and the flow from to the crossover will route into the core and flow into the radiator as the stock set up has it. Only diff is that there will be 2 hoses leading into the inlet of the heater core.

The block heater is as its instructions dictated. The source is a 't' in the lower radiator hose that flows into the block heater and into a 'y'... backflowing into the crossover. The reason flow is directional is the check ball in the bottom of the heater.

FWIW, I tried to put the new nipple in the water pump tonight to no avail since the nipple is straight and not a 45 degree angle. The 45 is truely necessary due to the close proximity to the alternator. The hose kinked every which way I tried to route it. When I was not successful, I replaced to nipple with the original plug and just eliminated the coolant filter for the moment. I also blew the heater core out (no blockage encountered). After filling and running the motor, there seems to be hotter air coming from the vents. Since Im working at the station tonight I wasnt able to take her out and shake out all the air bubbles.

We shall see...
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
My stock 1009 will start throwing warm air on high fan after about 5 minutes and will be hot enough after 15 that I need to turn the temp down to 3/4 to keep from roasting. This is with an outside air temp of around 20* or less. When it was below 0* here last month, it took a little longer to start and about 10 minutes to make good heat, but after 15 it was keeping me toasty.

I don't have a block heater or a winter front. I'd suspect that your issue is somewhere else.

Later,
Joe
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks