Reviving a parked M1009

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kallisti5

Member
63
9
8
Location
Texas
Personally I would shop vac the fluid from that master cylinder and replace the entire master cylinder, calipers and wheel cylinders. While I was at it I would change the rear axle seals and repack the front wheel bearings and spindle bearings. Do it right. It will cost less than $200. for all the parts and you can do it all in 1 day. I have done it many times. You will not revisit the brake system in many miles. What you have there is a mess. Good Luck. Be Safe.
That's my master cylinder from a few years ago as an example of "mixed DOT3/4 + DOT5" Hopefully HeisenBob's master cylinder is better. I fixed mine a few years ago :)
 

HeisenBob

Member
73
21
8
Location
Norman, OK
I’ll know more on the brakes once I get there. For now they work fine for in/out of the garage and down the street and back.

update on the driver side alt belt: gates 7575 is the correct size for me. No more screeching!

I have the trans pan dropped and going to change filter and add new fluid. Fluid smelled really burnt at the dipstick. Hoping new filter and fluid do the trick. Currently taking a break. Next will be changing oil and filter. After that, I’m done spending money until I’ve gotten the green light from the local judge on granting me a certificate of title. No sense in spending more $$$ if I can’t drive it and title it. If that ends up being the case, I’ll take her back to my grandparents’ farm.
 

HeisenBob

Member
73
21
8
Location
Norman, OK
Update: I’ve cleaned up electrical connections from the batteries to the slave bar (I think that’s what’s it’s called) and all the connections on both of those bars. I applied an electric grease that was recommended on one of the sticky’s.

The WAIT light was staying on amd the truck was difficult to start cold. There was a push button on the dash but the wires were cut. I found that the red/black wire on the GP relay was cut. I reconnected it and the wait light went away. The truck started right up without a any issues. I can only assume someone tried to use the push button to activate the GPS.

I’ve changed the Transmission filter, new gasket, new fluid. I’ve got an issue with shifting into 4x4. I followed the instructions on the visor and while slowly moving forward in D, tried to shift into 4H but it just grinds loudly. I tried to gently force it into gear and it wouldn’t go. After several tries I gave up and tried to put it back into 2H with the same grinding noise and difficulty. Had to really jam in back into 2H but it stats. Not sure what the issue is but I’ll wait on this one.

Next, I’m going to tackle some dash items: headlights, speedo and odometer don’t work, gear shift cable missing, signal cam is broken in steering wheel along with horn and hazard light switch.
 

HeisenBob

Member
73
21
8
Location
Norman, OK
Update: I got the headlights, brake lights, and both turn signals working. Turn signal was just a bad switch behind the steering wheel. That was a PITA to change. But, it also fixed the brake lights being out. The dimmer low/high switch had dirty/corroded pins. Cleaned them off with some sand paper and added dielectric grease and they worked. Sometimes they would go off when cycling the dimmer switch. So I'm thinking that will have to be replaced at some point. But, now I know where it is and how to change it.

Finally got around to changing the oil today. For some reason the oil level reads really high on the dipstick after 7 quarts. About an inch or two past full. I thought it held 8 quarts and put two gallons of oil in. I noticed how full it was so I drained out 1 quart and it still reads high. I'm not sure why but I guess it won't hurt anything. Especially since I know I have 7 quarts in it. Maybe my dipstick isn't the right size....who knows?

Next up is taking off the instrument panel and cleaning it up. I'm also going to look into replacing the oil pressure light with a gauge, adding a trans and water gauge. I'm missing the alt gauge as well.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
8,686
1,424
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Check/measure the length of the dipstick. Also keep the light and add the oil pressure gauge. Use a brass T at the sending unit. I will be going out for pictures of some other parts shortly and post them. Good Luck. Glad you have the lights working. Replace that dimmer switch as a safety to prevent failure in the middle of nowhere, Not sure why the underlining began. But it is important information. Not classified.
 

HeisenBob

Member
73
21
8
Location
Norman, OK
Check/measure the length of the dipstick. Also keep the light and add the oil pressure gauge. Use a brass T at the sending unit. I will be going out for pictures of some other parts shortly and post them. Good Luck. Glad you have the lights working. Replace that dimmer switch as a safety to prevent failure in the middle of nowhere, Not sure why the underlining began. But it is important information. Not classified.
Thanks. I’m going to add oil pressure, water temp, trans temp, and a volt gauge. I think I’d like to move the dummy lights to the right of the cluster where the volt meter would be. Currently the mounting plate is missing on that side (came that way). I’ve seen some smaller indicator lights that other members have posted and they look pretty clean. That would open up the four holes on the left for me to use for the four gauges I want and let me keep the dummy lights. I’m afraid it’s going to get expensive though. Just the one voltmeter that you’ve recommended to others was $120 new on some websites. I’ll have to start searching the interwebs to see what is the best bang for my buck.
 

HeisenBob

Member
73
21
8
Location
Norman, OK
I was looking at the ISSPRO gauge you recommended in another thread. Those were $120. I found some AutoMeter gauges for around $50-60 on Amazon. Is that a good brand?
 

HeisenBob

Member
73
21
8
Location
Norman, OK
Update: I got the instrument cluster cleaned and all put back together. Also bought a new instrument/dash cover from eBay for $55 including shipping. Pretty good deal IMO. So far, the right turn signal light isn’t working in the dash but is operating outside the truck. Might be a bad bulb or bad connection. It was working before I disassembled the cluster. I’ve completed the starter relay mod. Waiting on speedo lube to fix the cable, the new gear is installed. Next up is figuring out what to do with the dash. It was cracked very badly and not original. But it is red so we’ll see what I can do to fix it. I read somewhere you can repair with some sort of epoxy.
 

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