• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Rookie looking for M880 brake line advice

chriskonen

New member
14
0
0
Location
riverside/new jersey
Hello all,

I rarely post here on SS but I'm looking for some input/advice from some of the veteran M880 owners out there. I just started my M880 restoration today by replacing the power steering pump and the master cylinder. Upon bleeding the master cylinder (no air bubbles in the reservoir) I noticed the brake pedal being "loose" for more then 50% of the stroke and only getting some tension in the last 1/3 of pressing the brake to the floor.

Upon inspection sure enough there was fresh new brake fluid pouring out just behind the cab on the driver's side inside the frame rail. I ran my hand along there since view is obscured by the gas tank and the metal fuel line was clearly loose and didn't feel as though it was attached to anything. My guess is the fuel line is broken off or rusted through at minimum.

How difficult is it going to be to run all new brake lines for this truck? Any suggestions or tips? I got the truck cheap ($1000) and it had already been converted to power steering and it does start and runs strong. However the thing is almost completely rusted out. I'm trying to restore the truck and am doing it on a beer budget (domestic not imported). I really don't want to give up on this vehicle. I want to get it on the road and save it from the grave. I'm frustrated but I just don't know how to give up on this project.

Thanks,
Chris
 

onegmjack

New member
1,080
8
0
Location
Kingsport TN
You should remove the gas tank,would make it easier to replace brake line and check out the fuel line.You will have to make the brake line,you would be better of buyind a double flaring tool.I did a 79 Dodge motor home about 15 or 20 tears ago.My father-in=law still has it and the brake are great.I got started, just replaced all of the brake line from master cylinder to the front and rear brakes.
 

Wy-m880

New member
88
0
0
Location
Casper, WY
If on a Pabst, Natural ice or keystone light budget, i would go round up a newer truck that hasnt been salted much, 93 or older dodges most of them are very close if not identical, on the cheap only, but other than that brake tubing is very cheap, i would take the old stuff off carefully, dont bend it terribly, use it as a template for your new tubing ($35-50)for 25 foot of 3/16 and dont strip any threads on the distribution block/equilizer might be cheaper to buy one of those too, but brake lines arent that horrible IF you have old tubing to use as template/pattern, tools to do this too bender and flare kit 40 bucks, this is my quick tips, good luck it will take patience :beer:2cents
 

197thhhc

Active member
1,067
15
38
Location
Williamsburg, OHIO
Drop the gas tank. The fuel line is probably rusted too. Replace everything at once. Line is cheap. The double lap flaring tool is the most expensive thing you will buy. Some parts stores have a tool rental program and may have this kit to rent. If you do all the lines now you wont be doing it again in a month or two.
 

onegmjack

New member
1,080
8
0
Location
Kingsport TN
If you look online the bay or other.The double flaring tools,you can find them at a decient price.If you have never done a double flare,buy a tool and some cheap line,and practice making the double flares.It will make it easier,when you do the job.Dwight
 

MWMULES

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
5,580
344
83
Location
DESOTO, KANSAS
I used generic brake lines from napa they are already made up just straight. Just need a tubing bender, they still have the hoses and other brake parts also.
 

chriskonen

New member
14
0
0
Location
riverside/new jersey
I did find a metal brake line kit on eBay? It has precut straight lengths, unions, flared ends and nearly 20' of extra line included. Seems like a good way to go, any thoughts or bad idea to order this kit?
 

Bob H

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,138
153
63
Location
Huron National Forest, Michigan USA
Local Auto parts store is where I'd go.

I'm a little confused here though,
the brake line and fuel line are on opposite sides of the truck, at least that's the way they were made.
 

chriskonen

New member
14
0
0
Location
riverside/new jersey
Bob H,

All I can say for sure at this point is that there was a broken brake line on the driver's side inside the frame rail just behind the cab of the truck. I didn't feel anything else in there with the exception of what I believe may have been the emergency brake cable which felt secure. With the gas tank being snug up against the frame rail and strapped in, I can't get a good look at anything.

While I'm at it, can anyone give me info on dropping the tank? It's low on fuel now, so I can do it, but my manuals don't list any steps for dropping the tank. I don't want to bust any fuel lines or the fuel filler stem etc. Bear in mind this is all happening in my driveway and I can't get it to a lift.
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,486
113
Location
mid- michigan
I'm not sure about dodges , but with fords and chevys if you use pre-made lines you need a adapter at the proportioning valve . The fitting is larger diamiter threads most auto parts stores have them .
 

Bob H

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,138
153
63
Location
Huron National Forest, Michigan USA
Bob H,

All I can say for sure at this point is that there was a broken brake line on the driver's side inside the frame rail just behind the cab of the truck. I didn't feel anything else in there with the exception of what I believe may have been the emergency brake cable which felt secure. With the gas tank being snug up against the frame rail and strapped in, I can't get a good look at anything.

While I'm at it, can anyone give me info on dropping the tank? It's low on fuel now, so I can do it, but my manuals don't list any steps for dropping the tank. I don't want to bust any fuel lines or the fuel filler stem etc. Bear in mind this is all happening in my driveway and I can't get it to a lift.
Remove driveshaft, stick your head & arms up there.
Pretty straight forward, although I would just slide a new section of brake line down the frame rail from the back,
 

chriskonen

New member
14
0
0
Location
riverside/new jersey
I agree, sliding the new line down from the back sounds like a good idea and I will do that. I ordered the kit already and the less I have to touch the frame the better. It's covered in rust scale and I haven't even begun the monumental task of rust removal, repair and encapsulation. My head hurts just thinking about it. Thank you all !! I'm glad I have you guys to talk with about this, wish I could find someone local who knew a thing or two about these beasts. You'd think it'd be easy....I'm only 20 miles or so from Ft Dix / McGuire AFB where they used these things a while back ??
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks