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SAE Lubricants
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John Mc
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The "1950s metallurgy" does just fine with synthetic oils. There were some problems with early synthetics, but that had to do with compatibility with seals. That has since been addressed, and is part of the spec for modern synthetic lubes.
I use a 10W-30 full synthetic in my truck - one made for vintage engines (has zinc in it, which has been eliminated from most modern oils due to incompatibility with catalytic converters.) The manual recommends a 30 weight oil above 32˚F and a 10 weight oil from +40˚ down to -10˚F. This was before multi-viscosity oils became common. Since those two temperature ranges cover the temperatures I'm likely to use my truck in, I use a 10W-30. (I don't run my truck in -10˚F, but I have run it in +10 to +15˚ temps.)
I might consider a 15W-40 if I lived in an area where I would regularly be running in really hot conditions, and where it did not get quite as cold as it does here. Some argue that a thicker oil makes sense in an older, tired out engine. My truck had a 230 engine in it when I bought it. Both the previous owner and I used 10W-30 with good results. When I switched to a freshly rebuilt 251 engine, the rebuilder, who has a lot of experience with these engines, recommended a 10W-30. With the rebuilder and the factory manual saying the same thing, I stuck with it.
It's especially important to use an oil that is safe for yellow metals in the transmission (GL4 is better than GL5 in that regard. Best is to find a lube that actually states "Safe for use with yellow metals") I've heard that is less important in the transfer case and differentials. I'm not an expert in that area, but the explanation I was given is that the transfer case has no yellow metals, and the differentials don't get hot enough for it to be a factor. However, I don't know enough about the subject to say with any certainty whether the info on the transfer case and differentials is correct or not. (I do know with certainty that it's a factor with the transmission.)
I use a 10W-30 full synthetic in my truck - one made for vintage engines (has zinc in it, which has been eliminated from most modern oils due to incompatibility with catalytic converters.) The manual recommends a 30 weight oil above 32˚F and a 10 weight oil from +40˚ down to -10˚F. This was before multi-viscosity oils became common. Since those two temperature ranges cover the temperatures I'm likely to use my truck in, I use a 10W-30. (I don't run my truck in -10˚F, but I have run it in +10 to +15˚ temps.)
I might consider a 15W-40 if I lived in an area where I would regularly be running in really hot conditions, and where it did not get quite as cold as it does here. Some argue that a thicker oil makes sense in an older, tired out engine. My truck had a 230 engine in it when I bought it. Both the previous owner and I used 10W-30 with good results. When I switched to a freshly rebuilt 251 engine, the rebuilder, who has a lot of experience with these engines, recommended a 10W-30. With the rebuilder and the factory manual saying the same thing, I stuck with it.
It's especially important to use an oil that is safe for yellow metals in the transmission (GL4 is better than GL5 in that regard. Best is to find a lube that actually states "Safe for use with yellow metals") I've heard that is less important in the transfer case and differentials. I'm not an expert in that area, but the explanation I was given is that the transfer case has no yellow metals, and the differentials don't get hot enough for it to be a factor. However, I don't know enough about the subject to say with any certainty whether the info on the transfer case and differentials is correct or not. (I do know with certainty that it's a factor with the transmission.)
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John Mc
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You can find capacities for various lubes and fluids in the technical manuals. Here's a table from TM 9-8030, Section 8 Tabulated Data on page 18. Note that there were two different transmissions depending on date of manufacture, each with different capacities (and also a different capacity depending on whether a PTO is installed or not.)
williamh
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I had to look up yellow metal so I figured I would post it.
You see them in gear boxes and machine shops all of the time. Here’s the story.
Yellow metals refer to a category of alloys characterized by their distinct yellowish color, primarily comprising brass and bronze. These metals are valued for their aesthetic appeal, durability, and wide range of applications.
Brass is an alloy made from copper and zinc. The proportions of zinc and copper can be varied to create different types of brass, each with unique properties. Brass is known for its bright, gold-like appearance and is commonly used in musical instruments, decorative items, plumbing fittings, and hardware due to its corrosion resistance and malleability.
Bronze, another yellow metal, is primarily an alloy of copper and tin, though it may also include other elements like aluminum, manganese, or nickel. Bronze is historically significant, known for its use in sculptures, medals, and bearings. It is valued for its hardness, wear resistance, and ability to withstand the elements, making it suitable for outdoor sculptures and marine applications.
Yellow metals, combining aesthetic beauty with functional properties, are essential in various industries. They offer a blend of visual appeal and practical advantages, making them popular choices in both historical and modern contexts. Whether in art, industry, or everyday objects, yellow metals continue to play a crucial role
You see them in gear boxes and machine shops all of the time. Here’s the story.
Yellow metals refer to a category of alloys characterized by their distinct yellowish color, primarily comprising brass and bronze. These metals are valued for their aesthetic appeal, durability, and wide range of applications.
Brass is an alloy made from copper and zinc. The proportions of zinc and copper can be varied to create different types of brass, each with unique properties. Brass is known for its bright, gold-like appearance and is commonly used in musical instruments, decorative items, plumbing fittings, and hardware due to its corrosion resistance and malleability.
Bronze, another yellow metal, is primarily an alloy of copper and tin, though it may also include other elements like aluminum, manganese, or nickel. Bronze is historically significant, known for its use in sculptures, medals, and bearings. It is valued for its hardness, wear resistance, and ability to withstand the elements, making it suitable for outdoor sculptures and marine applications.
Yellow metals, combining aesthetic beauty with functional properties, are essential in various industries. They offer a blend of visual appeal and practical advantages, making them popular choices in both historical and modern contexts. Whether in art, industry, or everyday objects, yellow metals continue to play a crucial role
John Mc
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The transmission has either brass or bronze (I always forget which) in the synchronizers. The wrong kind of lube will slowly attack them.
msgjd
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as far as military or farm or commercial engines go, I use 10W-40 in three items i use year-round..
But with everything else that's also dated pre-1975 i stick to what's in the manuals or on the dash tag or on the LO .. This means 99% of my stuff is SAE-30 .. (SAE-40 if the engine is very worn) .. I inherited about 10% of the same 1950's farm stuff i grew up with and it was always straight weight and it's still going strong and untouched, except for clutches, brakes, and tires ..
Straight weight has never hurt any "old" thing around here however i've bought troublesome well-worn pieces that had less than 8psi with multi-weight when hot .. Pressure improved when using straight-weights in those
In the 1990's i restored a 1932 Farmall that spec'd 70W in summer and 50W winter.. Hard to believe but that's what the manual said. The mains were pressure-lube open ball-bearings and the rods were splash lube.. I only ran it in summer with kendall nitro-70 but had to quickly move it out of a barn one 50-degree spring day and as i was getting it out of the way it eventually pegged the slow-climbing gauge and blew the oil filter can clean off
But with everything else that's also dated pre-1975 i stick to what's in the manuals or on the dash tag or on the LO .. This means 99% of my stuff is SAE-30 .. (SAE-40 if the engine is very worn) .. I inherited about 10% of the same 1950's farm stuff i grew up with and it was always straight weight and it's still going strong and untouched, except for clutches, brakes, and tires ..
Straight weight has never hurt any "old" thing around here however i've bought troublesome well-worn pieces that had less than 8psi with multi-weight when hot .. Pressure improved when using straight-weights in those
In the 1990's i restored a 1932 Farmall that spec'd 70W in summer and 50W winter.. Hard to believe but that's what the manual said. The mains were pressure-lube open ball-bearings and the rods were splash lube.. I only ran it in summer with kendall nitro-70 but had to quickly move it out of a barn one 50-degree spring day and as i was getting it out of the way it eventually pegged the slow-climbing gauge and blew the oil filter can clean off
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