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Sagging door of doom
- Thread starter Rrent
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In regards to removing the fender to repair the hinges: if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right...
Just my
Just my
I hear you. Been doing this (car thing) 5 plus decades. I’ve never once walk back to my tool box to get the correct sized wrench (after guessing wrong) without saying to myself “lazy man always finds the easy way”…In regards to removing the fender to repair the hinges: if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right...
Just my
CMPPhil
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Hi
Check the door latch, on the civilian version there is a problem when the little plastic tube around the latch post fails it makes the door act like it is out of alignment, there is a relatively simple fix easier than the hinge. There is a restoration video that explains the issue, which I'll look for, will post if I find it.
Cheers Phil
Check the door latch, on the civilian version there is a problem when the little plastic tube around the latch post fails it makes the door act like it is out of alignment, there is a relatively simple fix easier than the hinge. There is a restoration video that explains the issue, which I'll look for, will post if I find it.
Cheers Phil
MarcusOReallyus
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Other than the brush guard, rear bumper, blackout lights, a funky hybrid 24/12v system, and and a few other minor doo-dads, these are exactly the same as any 1984 Chevy K30.
LT67
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To be on the safe side, get new hinges. The doors on my 86 m1008 are being swapped today and the existing driver's side hinges were just worn out. I just bought new hinges and painted them.
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I spotted a post yesterday by cucvrus about door hinges. Link to his info is below.
NAPA is a source for hinge pins and the parts were surprisingly reasonable.
CUCVRUS Repair Projects
Fits the description of a few CUCV's I have had sent to me for repairs. AHH NO I can't fix that thing.
www.steelsoldiers.com
ezgn
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Take a hold of your door while open and lift it up and down. If you have a lot of movement then you probably have worn out bushings around your pins. Buy replacement pins that come with bushings. Remove the doors, you will need to cut the door pins because from the factory they come with a crimp on the bottom of the pin. A grinder with a cutting wheel is a good choice. Two people helps. I don't think you have to remove the fenders if you replace the hinges. Replace the pins and adjust the doors upon re assembly. Check your door strike as there is considerable room for adjustment by loosening the bolt and sliding the door strike in or out. Not a bad job
nyoffroad
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Replace the pins and bushings, do NOT replace the whole hinges unless you know what your doing! Lots of room to never get get them adjusted right again. On the top hinge there is a PIA bolt that goes from the inside out, not sure if you have to remove the parking brake assy. or not, I just don't remember. As long as the bushing holes are not ovaled out new pins and bushings are easy.
cucvrus
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I agree 100% DO NOT remove the fenders and the hinges are fine. It is the bushings that are worn. That simple. No grinder needed to remove the pins. Carefully drive them up while they are attached to the door. If you are a good door adjuster then by all means remove the door. Other wise have a helper and just drive the pins out and replace the bushings. Grease them really good and adjust the striker so the door pops open properly and latches smoothly. I have not completed my hinge bushing replacement yet but will be doing it tomorrow, The hinge pins and bushings that NAPA has listed for the 1984 K 5 Blazer are incorrect. No problem. I have the genuine GM door bushings. I never replaced the pins. Just the bushings. The bronze bushing go on the to side and the bottom side of the hinge. I will get a picture of the part number and GM bushings. Take Care and Good Luck.
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Also, if you absolutely must remove the hinges, Snap-On does make a door hinge wrench
cucvrus
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Most times it is the top hinge that has the bad bushings. If the bottom bushings are tight there is no use in changing them. These top ones are scrap and worn out. 
I use a hammer to hit the pin upward. 
I actually use 2 hammers the one to stay aligned on the lower pin shaft. and hit it with another. 
I use a fork or a needle nose vise gripes and drive the pin all the way out by putting it under the head of the pin. 
Clean out any remnants of the old bushings and make sure the hinge holes are still semi round. 
Tap in a new bushing from the top 
and one from the bottom. 
I use a clamp to secure the hinge to the truck. If the pin hits the lower flange of the hinge it will spread it open. No worries. It is easily closed again. I used up my 10 pictures on the installation and will post the part number on the next post. I found that the Genuine GM ones are sturdier and hold up better then the imports. Good Luck. It is easy. I have changed the top ones without removing the door. It takes a good helper. these doors were off and I wanted to give you an example.
I use a hammer to hit the pin upward. I actually use 2 hammers the one to stay aligned on the lower pin shaft. and hit it with another. I use a fork or a needle nose vise gripes and drive the pin all the way out by putting it under the head of the pin. Clean out any remnants of the old bushings and make sure the hinge holes are still semi round. Tap in a new bushing from the top and one from the bottom. I use a clamp to secure the hinge to the truck. If the pin hits the lower flange of the hinge it will spread it open. No worries. It is easily closed again. I used up my 10 pictures on the installation and will post the part number on the next post. I found that the Genuine GM ones are sturdier and hold up better then the imports. Good Luck. It is easy. I have changed the top ones without removing the door. It takes a good helper. these doors were off and I wanted to give you an example.
cucvrus
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This was a full bag of 20 bushings. Enough to last a lifetime for most people. I changed many many door bushings over the years. 
Some of these bushings in this picture are imports that I accumulated over the years. If they don't break they will work fine. I just found that they seem to be more difficult to get seated and in place. they are a bit more fragile at times. But like I said I have used them and had success. the GM ones are a lot more flexible and forgiving less brittle. Good Luck.
Some of these bushings in this picture are imports that I accumulated over the years. If they don't break they will work fine. I just found that they seem to be more difficult to get seated and in place. they are a bit more fragile at times. But like I said I have used them and had success. the GM ones are a lot more flexible and forgiving less brittle. Good Luck.
CMPPhil
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Hi
Here a video on the door latch issue, hope it helps. Not a fix for worn hinge pins of bushings but a good place to start.
Cheers Phil
Here a video on the door latch issue, hope it helps. Not a fix for worn hinge pins of bushings but a good place to start.
Cheers Phil
Jeepadict
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CUCVRUS nailed it again! Accurate on all accounts. Follow that and you can't go wrong.
In my youth I had a driver door with many more miles than I did. If a guy went to the trouble to remove both pins and therefore the door, I was able to source replacement spring bars since a lack of lubrication will cause a groove to be worn rendering them useless. A buzz from a MIG and flap wheel can also net the same result.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
In my youth I had a driver door with many more miles than I did. If a guy went to the trouble to remove both pins and therefore the door, I was able to source replacement spring bars since a lack of lubrication will cause a groove to be worn rendering them useless. A buzz from a MIG and flap wheel can also net the same result.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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Hi All, I know this is an old thread but I have a question. On my 1984 CUCV , the drivers side door closes very hard. When I slam it hard enough it closes and it's very tight. I'm wondering if all I need to try is loosening the striker bold and adjust it some? I do not any type of bushing on it. I'd think that would make it harder to close if I added some electrical tape to the striker? Thanks for any suggestions.
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Agreed. Adding tape might even make it impossible for you to close the door... I suggest that you adjust the striker plate out a fuzz and see if that helps. You might also look and see if the "hinge side" of the door is kicked in a bit. Close your door, then look all the way around the door and see if one side or the other is more out of adjustment than the other.
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Jeepadict
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There should never be a need to slam a door hard at all, the adjustments are easy...YouTube University makes many more things easier today.
If the door strike is just bare metal, a short cut of PEX plumbing pipe makes for a very good bushing to restore it to how it should be.
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Well as soon as the weather in Indianapolis get into the upper 30's I'll be putting new door strikes on. Thanks all for your help.
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I have never seen a cucv that the doors closed easy. My doors are lined up very well, I put new doors seals in as I rebuilt everything. Still have to close them hard. I will look at the youtube university to see what I can do.