Schutt Industries 1CSL0-SLC-T-1000 Self Loading Trailer

[Artisan]

Excell? Spreadsheet? No, I do not remember what else is new?

 

[PATRIOT1]

Hey Brad (or any other SLC Trailer owners),

PM me your email, and I will forward the docs he sent to me.

 

[Carlo]

I sure wish we had these on our disposal auctions in Europe. Cool piece of equipment.

 

[Artisan]

I think there were about 23 of them Carlo.

 

[PATRIOT1]

Hey SLC Owners,

Has anyone tried the slave connection - outgoing? I have a new Ohler electric pump that I want to test, and haven't gotten the time to run with water, but wanted to hook it up to this (and my M923A2) to test it out. Anyone had success with any devices off the slave outlet on the Perkins engine/enclosure? Thanks.

 

[Artisan]

Worked for me...

 

[Artisan]

Anyone know how to cage these brakes?
I think they are a #D120HD DEXTER AXLE.
No joy or I am too stupid ot quickly find the docs for these things on their website.

 

[Artisan]

Hmmm those axle hub ends I believe were once CLEAR in color, and
probably for a reason.

CLICK HERE for the part I "think" we have .

 

[Artisan]

Blast...!

I just looked for the axle ID numbers and I "think" they are
covered by the welded on trailing arm. CLICK HERE for an
Axle ID How To.

"IF" someone sees this ID please share it w/ me.

 

[Artisan]

I found the AXLE documents needed. CLICK HERE then on the right you
see the 9-15K models, that is what you want, DISC BRAKES stuff.
I think we have D120HD Axles. 12,000 pounders.

Yes the outer caps are supposed to be clear to see the oil inside.

If these trailers were flooded the axles could be inundated w/ water.
I have a lot of corrosion. I jacked up one wheel and it would
not spin freely by hand. I did tow it 3 miles and stuffed it in it's
hole when it arrived, that is all.

So w/ the wheel not turning I decided
to hook it up to the truck and I went back and forth a few feet several times,
I need to jack it up again and see what's what. Those wheels should spin
I do believe. I assume w/ no air that the brakes are NOT engaged and
that you can't cage the brakes. I am not 100% on that.

Has anyone pulled a hub and or calipers? I am concerned the rotors are so
rusted they will eats pads really fast, so I wanted to jack it up and take
a conditioning pad to the rotors, that is really what started all this.

 

[Artisan]

3- Light Clearance Light Finally DONE! ALL LED's. You can see the License plate w/ light too.

 

[Artisan]

I pulled one of the hub oil caps that were originally CLEAR
and have been painted over to find grease instead of oil
in there. It does NOT look good guys. I took a picture
of the dryed out grease inside the cap, you can see the
cracks where the grease has dried out.

I "believe" these axles were OE filled w/ a Hypoid type
of oil. I am not an expert, if someone is please chime in
but maybe this old grease needs to be removed and all
reassembled and use oil and get new CLEAR caps.

The caps are cheap, you can get a pair of them for $10.00
or so.

Any input?

 

[Artisan]

The manual "Hubs.pdf" under 12,000 says;

"Axle designed for oil bath lubrication of bearings with SAE 80W-90 hypoid gear oil."

 

[Artisan]

Hey guys I just found an issue and dollars to donuts it is the same
on every one of these trailers and it really needs to be addressed IMO.

I pulled a brake caliper to see just how bad the rust is and the 2 brake caliper
slider shoulder bolts are jacked. Those things should be chrome plated, very
smooth, lubed and easy for the caliper to float upon. This means
the pads AND expensive rotors will wear wrong, and not work
as they are supposed to. These bolts are supposed to be greased
w/ a high temp caliper grease AND, all the O-rings feel hard too.
NO BUENO AMIGOS!.

Shoulder Bolts need to be replaced.
The install tool will make it easy,
New O-rings for all replace them all. 40 of them (Yes 40 )
The anti rattle springs are rusty, mind as well get anew.
I will clean the rust off the pads and rotors w/ a conditioning pad and reassemble
and while in storage cover the tops to keep off rain.
I glassbead blasted the rust off the PADS and gave
them a quick shopt of BBQ black paint to keep corrosion at bay.

I have a call into a trailer place getting a price for the parts. I think it will be
about $140 dollars or so. If you wait I might have a phone number
for you to call and this gal will already know what's up.

So it looks like a pretty easy job and only $35-$45 a wheel, so it's
a no brainer in my book.

1- Installation Tool for Shoulder Screws P/N 071-182-00 (Get this so you don't jack the O-rings! Lube it!)
4- Shoulder Screw 5⁄8 x 5 TOTAL 8 BOLTS P/N 007-186-00
4- "O" Ring TOTAL 40 RINGS P/N 010-062-00
4- Anti-Rattle Spring TOTAL 8 SPRINGS P/N 046-105-00
1- CALIPER GREASE

 

[Artisan]

You will want a couple of these to clean all the holes
where the O-Rings go in the calipers and the caliper
axle holder on the tube.

 

[quickfarms]

I pulled one of the hub oil caps that were originally CLEAR
and have been painted over to find grease instead of oil
in there. It does NOT look good guys. I took a picture
of the dryed out grease inside the cap, you can see the
cracks where the grease has dried out.

I "believe" these axles were OE filled w/ a Hypoid type
of oil. I am not an expert, if someone is please chime in
but maybe this old grease needs to be removed and all
reassembled and use oil and get new CLEAR caps.

The caps are cheap, you can get a pair of them for $10.00
or so.

Any input?

View attachment 515739

There has been a long standing debate since roller bearings were invented on weather they should be oiled or greased.

Each has advantages for specific applications.

All civilian light vehicle front wheel bearings and a lot of rear wheel bearings are greased.

Look at different medium and heavy duty trucks and trailers on the road. You will see a mixture of grease and oil caps on steering and trailer axles. Drive axles have oiled bearings. Except for the military.

The military prefers grease because it performs better during storage and fording.

The real issue is with the seals. There are grease and oil seals. If I remember correctly you can run oil or grease with oil seals but you can only run grease with grease seals. Oil seals are a lot more costly than grease seals.

Remember that holding the bearing in your hand is not an actual representation of how the grease is during operation because the grease will melt when it is heated a little bit. This heat is caused by the bearings themselves in combination with residual heat from the brakes, disc brakes tend to get hotter than drums.

Since you have it apart you should just clean all the old grease out if the bearings and hubs. Replace the seals and regrease it with a high quality disc brake grease.

 

[Artisan]

TU QF, I read many of the debates and it is looking like GREASE is going
to win out for me. Dexter Axle has a big list of approved grease's and one
is Kendall's L-427 Super Blu Grease. This place seems to have decent
prices but now I am trying to figure out if it will work on my M925A1
and my M916 and my Ford F250 and my FJ Cruiser / all my Hondas
etc. I am tired of the grease thing and I want to buy one big 35lb
pail and use just one kind of grease on all my bearings if possible.


Any input on that? CLICK HERE

 

[Artisan]

CLICK HERE for the L-427 spec's

 

[PATRIOT1]

Thank you, Artisan, for posting so much helpful information. I can't get to all of it with my Schutt SLC right now, due to illness and work, but I wanted you to know your posts don't go unnoticed and will serve me well as future reference. Thank you again for taking the time to help the rest of us.

 

[Artisan]

CLICK HERE to see what I used to make my rear- 3-Light over80" light set out of.

Chop Chop, Drill Drill Drill Drill Drill, wire up and change the LED's to red.

I found the LED's on Ebay for cheap.

Looks store bought.