Seeking TMs and Advice on Nordic ECU Install

hrbergeron

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I just purchased two 36,000btu Nordic ECUs to cool and heat my motor pool. By my calculations I only need around 60,000btu so 72,000btu will be more than enough. I am powering it off of my MEP-005A so I will have 3 phase. I know how to wire it but I can not find the TM for it online. Does anyone have one or the pdf of one? Those that have these units, is there any advice you would give for my install?

ECU, 36,000 BTUH, 208v, 3PH, 50/60HZ.
CAGE CODE (17V) : 0WJE1
ORIG. PART NUMBER (1P) : GL0343ZAADWYX01
NSN : 4120-01-526-2397
REFRIGERANT : R-22
TECH MANUAL : 567-00002
1378390_4063_159_0001.jpg1378390_7843_233_0001.jpg
 
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hrbergeron

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I found this posted in another thread by user RumRunner742. He said this is how he wired the same model. I will probably wire mine to a three phase plug or a three phase box.
ac wiring.jpg
 

Walnut6

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I have a manual but I have not scanned it in yet, the manuals last couple of pages are dyed black because of moisture. Their still ledgable.
ECU's: 2 working, 2 dead. One is literally dead, it was shot twice.
What info do you need, maybe I could just do a phone pic.
 

Walnut6

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I have a manual but I have not scanned it in yet, the manuals last couple of pages are dyed black because of moisture. Their still ledgable.
ECU's: 2 working, 2 dead. One is literally dead, it was shot twice.
What info do you need, maybe I could just do a phone pic.
 

hrbergeron

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Yorktown, VA
Was anyone able to come up with the TM for this?
I only found a parts TM for these units, never a operator TM. I wired them into my three phase panel with 30 amp breakers on each phase. Wiring order is what I posted above.

If anyone has the operator TM for this, I will pay you money to scan and send it to me.
 

smokem joe

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30 amp on each phase? The info I found online says a max draw of 9.6kw total. Hookup won't be a problem. I was hoping for a TM in case I have one with problems. The ones I got were both marked condition A so hoping they are good.

Someone spraypainted drained on them. Hoping they didn't drain freon! Gen sets usually have that painted on them but none of the other AC units I bought did.
 

Guyfang

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I found this posted in another thread by user RumRunner742. He said this is how he wired the same model. I will probably wire mine to a three phase plug or a three phase box.
View attachment 753646
About the only wory with hooking it up, is phasing. And if I remember right, it has a phase light that comes on when its out of phase. If thats the problem, simply swap any to phases, and that should fix the problem.
 

smokem joe

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No problem at all on the hookup. I was just hoping for a TM in case one didn't work. Doesn't look like there is to much to them. Part numbers would help in the event I need something though
 

smokem joe

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About the only wory with hooking it up, is phasing. And if I remember right, it has a phase light that comes on when its out of phase. If thats the problem, simply swap any to phases, and that should fix the problem.
Actually this picture of the hookup looks wrong to me. I haven't investigated the wiring on these, but I'm guessing that green wire should go to ground and not neutral. I don't think there is anything in these that requires 120v to need a neutral, but I'm sure it needs a ground!
 

hrbergeron

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Actually this picture of the hookup looks wrong to me. I haven't investigated the wiring on these, but I'm guessing that green wire should go to ground and not neutral. I don't think there is anything in these that requires 120v to need a neutral, but I'm sure it needs a ground!
On larger gensets, ground and neutral are bonded. The wiring pictured is correct. Green always goes to L0. I chose 30 amp breakers in my circuit panel because the individual breakers on this unit are 30 amp. I have 4 of these units.
 

smokem joe

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If the gen set is tied into a panel as mine are they should be unbonded. The bond should only be in one place. If the gen set is set up as prime power in the middle of a field and not connected to a panel then then bonded is correct.
 

Coug

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I went out and checked mine, did continuity test. I wired in a 5 wire pigtail and 30 amp 208 3 phase plug, wired according to mfg spec for the plug.
The cable for the ECU only has 4 wires, and the 4th wire at the ECU end checked out as ground for me.

That being said, on the generator side of things the neutral and ground are tied together on my gen, and also in the picture above. Bonding bar is to the vertical piece of metal to the right of the neutral lug at the bottom corner of the picture. Doesn't really make any difference at that point.
 

Coug

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On larger gensets, ground and neutral are bonded. The wiring pictured is correct. Green always goes to L0. I chose 30 amp breakers in my circuit panel because the individual breakers on this unit are 30 amp. I have 4 of these units.
L0 is the same as Neutral, right?


I can't find a single wiring chart after multiple searches that puts a green wire as anything other than ground (or green-yellow as protective earth in Europe, but same basic meaning). I'm still looking, but I can't find them.

Now, I can understand if you're using wires designed for single phase 240 wiring in a 3 phase application as to why you would have green as neutral and no ground wire, but a proper 3 phase cable should have 5 wires in it to allow for both neutral and ground to be utilized.

9dd36c841b4e2402111f9c9b3e88c589.jpg
 

smokem joe

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Green always signifies ground. That is universal in North America.

The reason a lot of 240v wiring has no neutral is it isn't needed. The only reason to have the neutral is if the device requires 120v somewhere inside of it. All of your old 240v stoves and clothes dryers were only 3 wire. Usually this was just 2 hots and a bare ground for safety, unless a clock or control panel used 120v. Then they would use a protected neutral, and on some of the really old stuff it was still carried on the open ground. On a typical 240v single phase device the two hot wires exchange from positive to negative 60 times a second, or 60HZ. The ground was there to catch the current in the event of a problem.

Code has changed now. All 240v devices now come with a neutral and a ground and all new wiring is 4 wire.

The reason your ECU is testing green as ground is because that is what it is. There is no neutral needed. 3 phase is 3 hot wires spaced on 1/3 of the cycle. That being said if the ground bar is up as shown in the gen set picture it will work because ground and neutral are tied. If it was mine I would be hooking the green to ground as a matter of principal. If you are hardwiring one to a panel with separate equipment ground and neutral bars then you better get the green to the equipment ground bar!

The military didn't have to follow code changes as it doesn't apply to them. So to make a 3 phase device with no 120v draw in it and require a 5 wire is a waste of soldiers time to hook up and our money (not that they care about wasting money) to buy the cable as it simply isn't needed. 4 wire cable will always be cheaper than 5 and faster to hook up. I have seen plenty of military surplus set up for 3 phase with a 5 prong plug. However the 5th pin is usually vacant on the inside of the device and the power cord will only have 4 wires.
 

Walnut6

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Capture.PNG
At the top is the hook-up for the ECU. Sorry for not loading the manufacturers manual that's shipped with it, single parent with a teenager. I'll start working on scanning it in my computer, printers bad but scanner is good. I have a manual but the one that I was able to obtain online, you can not read any of the wire labels.
will get it to you all as soon as possible.
 
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smokem joe

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I fired a couple of these up yesterday. I used one at a time since I only had one 803a at this location. Felt heat coming out of it wasn't that great, but they did raise the temp in the building 12 degrees, 6 for each unit running about 20 minutes. I was expecting more felt heat coming out of the supply duct, but maybe with the amount of air that fan is moving it just doesn't feel that hot
 

Guyfang

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These heaters are not meant for heating up a building in 20 min. Got to give them some time. If you turn on your house heater when its butt cold in the house, how long will it take to be warm in the house?
 

hrbergeron

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Felt heat coming out of it wasn't that great, but they did raise the temp in the building 12 degrees, 6 for each unit running about 20 minutes. I was expecting more felt heat coming out of the supply duct, but maybe with the amount of air that fan is moving it just doesn't feel that hot
The heat coming out of mine is noticeable, but not ridiculous. The heat output is half of what the BTU rating is on unit, ie, a 36,000 BTU unit puts out 36,000 BTU AC, 18,000 BTU heat. My units will have the motor pool at temp in around an hour. Have you checked the air filter? It could be clogged reducing air flow.
 

smokem joe

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These heaters are not meant for heating up a building in 20 min. Got to give them some time. If you turn on your house heater when its butt cold in the house, how long will it take to be warm in the house?
Pretty quick actually! Throw 2 extra logs in the burner and it is warm in a few minutes! Not quite the same though. I am not expecting them to warm things up in 20 minutes. I was just surprised by not having hot air coming out. The air is warm for sure, just not hot. But things may be different if you started with an air temp of 55 vs 35
 
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