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Severely disabled HMMWV adopted

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF7121.jpgDSCF7122.jpgDSCF7123.jpgDSCF7124.jpgToday I did a lot of studying of the engine installation and have the engine completely assembled for installation. I have set aside a day next week to install it into the chassis. It is the wire routing and brackets that I have some doubt about. I am sure I will figure it out. Not like I am losing sleep over it. Quality work takes time. Hack jobs not no much. Tomorrow I will be in Conowingo Maryland fishing for catfish. Have a great day.
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF7150.jpgDSCF7149.jpgDSCF7148.jpgDSCF7147.jpgDSCF7146.jpgThursday night I was successful in getting the engine back in the HMMWV. It took a lot of patience and a lot of thinking to get it in and not damage anything. I made a wooden engine cradle for the oil pan and used a floor jack to support the engine from below then hooked the picker to the front of the engine. I worked smarter not harder. It is in now.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,281
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF7161.jpgDSCF7168.jpgDSCF7167.jpgDSCF7166.jpgDSCF7163.jpgDSCF7158.jpgDSCF7159.jpgDSCF7160.jpgDSCF7162.jpgDSCF7169.jpg I stayed out in the garage till about 2 AM and then got right back on it this morning at 6AM. I went fishing and came back and worked on it again. If not for the broken alternator ear I would have had it running today. I tried for 2 hours to get the starter on by myself. I made it a goal to do it. I failed. That is a 2 man job. Maybe 20 years ago I could have done it but I could not bench that thing up there and put the bolts in. I bought new bolts and then it was in after my Son helped me. It was the first task after coffee. I used all new hardware and studied many pictures and looked at a few HMMWV to get this vehicle back together.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,281
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF7160.jpgDSCF7159.jpgAnyone know where this wire goes? I think it may be a ground. Does anyone know? DSCF7171.jpgDSCF7170.jpgDSCF7172.jpgDSCF7173.jpgDoes anyone have any feedback. Check out the pictures does everything look good? I replaced a lot of worm drive clamps. Almost everyone was over tightened and stripped. I used a lot of new fasteners. I used some of my Torx 40 5/16" bolts to bolt the fender aprons in place. Like I said if not for the broken alternator ear I would have had it running today. Anyone check out my classified for parts wanted? 1992 M98 HMMWV 60 alternator front case.
 

tage

Active member
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68
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Location
LOS ANGELES / CALIFORNIA
Have you tried fleaBay?
Looks good. Looks like a ground. What's the number on the tag?

Is the power steering pump pointed up on final assembly? Doesn't exactly look right from photos prospective
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
The pump is on and in place. I don't see any pictures of it installed. i learned a lot on this job about these HMMWV. The next one will be easier. I will OHM the wire.
 

ClarkeF

Member
206
5
18
Location
Hestand, KY
Anyone know where this wire goes? I think it may be a ground. Does anyone know?
What's the number on the metal tag on the wire? Every wire in the truck has a tag and the number corresponds to the circuit number in the TM. Given the location it's probably the ground wire off the main engine harness - but a number from the tag will confirm it.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Wire 2A
Wire 3B
Wire 74A
Wire 81A
Can someone help me? I have looked at every manual. I must have missed something. Where do these wires go?DSCF7209.jpgThis fuse?DSCF7207.jpgIs this right? DSCF7178.jpgDSCF7174.jpgThis was the broken ear. DSCF7203.jpgDSCF7204.jpgDSCF7205.jpgDSCF7206.jpgThis is the same ear after a $40. tig weld. Looks good to me.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,281
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I figured it out for myself. All the wires are in place. It helps to live near Indiantown Gap. I looked at a HMMWV that was parked over there. Starter / alternator wires. I am cranking but unable to get it to fire. I cannot get fuel past the injection pump. I will give it a rest and get back on task later.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,281
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Any ideas as to how hard it is to purge the air from an M998? And is it standard to have a rubber expandable plug in the bottom of the fuel tank as a drain? This one just has a plug no bolt to tighten it and leaks at will.
 

ClarkeF

Member
206
5
18
Location
Hestand, KY
Wire 2A
Wire 3B
Wire 74A
Wire 81A
Can someone help
2A - Generator armature circuit (main positive line) - goes to AC Sense
3B - Generator ground circuit
74A - Starter solenoid circuit (actuating) from switch or relay
81A - Battery positive feed from starting motor toward STE/ICE connector
 

ClarkeF

Member
206
5
18
Location
Hestand, KY
Any ideas as to how hard it is to purge the air from an M998? And is it standard to have a rubber expandable plug in the bottom of the fuel tank as a drain? This one just has a plug no bolt to tighten it and leaks at will.
It's pretty hard to bleed out the air with just a mechanical fuel pump that's active only when cranking. Some people will pressurize the tank to push fuel up to the engine to make it easier to bleed (there is a ventline with a check valve that would need to be blocked - or the check valve removed to use that vent for pressurizing the tank.

Also check that you are getting a solid "click" from the top of the injection pump when you move the ignition to on - you should feel the fuel cutoff solenoid pulling back. If it's not, it will never start.

Yes the expandable rubber plug on the bottom of the tank is stock - but there should be a screw (#10?) in the bottom middle to tighten/squish the unit into place. Other have posted very recently about replacing the factory plug with a 3/4" plug part from autozone.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,281
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Yes I replaced the fuel tank plug with a 3/4" expandable plug. I went out and put on rubber gloves and pulled the plug quickly. Nothing came out. It was leaking for the last 2 weeks in my garage. That solved the no start problem. Won't start without fuel. And the threads in the center were gone in the stick plug. It appeared to be a #10 screw of some sort. But the one I used has a 5/16" carriage bolt on it. Tomorrow is another day. I have visions of the HMMWV running in the AM before lunch. That explains a lot. Last night when I was back messing with the plug I could not get it to stop leaking. Today not 1 drop came out when I removed it to go get an expandable replacement. $3.08 problem solved.
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
You moved along pretty quick on this even though it was over half way tore out. Hate going in after someone else tears it down. Takes a lot of time figuring what went where. Good luck on your start up in the morning, and two thumbs up on the reincarnation!
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,281
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF7223.jpgDSCF7222.jpgDSCF7221.jpgDSCF7220.jpgDSCF7219.jpgDSCF7218.jpgDSCF7217.jpgDSCF7216.jpgDSCF7215.jpgDSCF7211.jpgWell that was easy. Never knew about the screw on top of the fuel filter. That's OK I figured it out. Cranked right up. It seems that the Glow Plugs cycle in and out. I know nothing of them. I put 8 new Glow Plugs in. I am not sure they are working correctly. We took it for a ride. Went to eat and drove in the field. Everything works well. The transmission needs to be serviced. I think it was driven HOT and that is what caused the engine to burn up. The hydraulic fan is not operating correctly. I unplugged it and it works fine now. Always engaged. But keeping the engine cool none the less. Drove it down and filled it with diesel fuel. It drives well and everything is functioning as designed. That was easy. I could do them easily now. I learned a few things that would help make the next one a piece of cake. I now have my Cadillac in the garage cleaning it.
 
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