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shimming axle to help pinion angle

86m1028

Active member
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16
38
Location
Murphy TEXAS
Like Skinny said, I'm curious to see how it drives after these changes.
Any word on the condition of your trans ?
Once again, nice build.
Keep us posted.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
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63
Location
galveston/Texas
I believe I am going to just get some 2 degree shims and use them to test it before I mill my zero rates.
They can be removed if they do not work.

I checked on line about grinding my cv joint to get a little more angle out of it and I will do this if needed.

What I was feeling as far as vibration is only when I jack up the truck by the frame and let the tires hang. I can spin the tire (hubs locked, t-case in neutral) and with one finger on the drive shaft or my palm on the t-case as it turns I feel a minor bump as the cv joint hits its stops while turning.

Will probably never have a problem with things unless I get both front tires airborne at the same time. I do not believe the axle will drop any further in an off camber situation than it can on jack stands. I plan to wheel it fairly hard so I would like to fix this issue.

I think my current plan of action will be to:
install 2 degree shims when I move the axle back one inch.
check to see if vibration is still present if so then I will grind the cv joint.
If that does not fix It I will then consider rebuilding my cross member or dropping the t-case.

Do not want to cut and chop axle I will save this for if I ever go bigger on tires or lift
I do appreciate everyone's input, I am going to shim only as a test and not make it permanent until I know it works.
The tranny won't be out of the shop until next week so I can work on this until it is time to put the tranny back in.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
From my build, a 4" lift required grinding on the CV at full droop when on the lift. It would install ok at ride height but would start to bind when I picked up the truck and let the front axle go full droop. Obviously this all is determined by spring rate, shock length, etc.

Another solution would be to install a limiting strap right at the differential. Attach it to the spring perch, diff cover, whatever works. This one strap will keep the diff from going too far away from the chassis but won't really limit your flex too much or atleast will only restrict one side.

 
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