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Shop Van Insulation

dc239

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I had planned on replacing the insualtion in the walls of my shop van. I know water and bugs have made their way inside and in some places it seems to be without the old fiberglass insulation.

I was going to take off the inside panels and spray the walls from top to bottom with something like Flex Seal to keep the water and bugs from infultrating any of the gaps or holes in the outter wall. Then spray on a layer of foam insualtion before putting all the panels back on.

Will this effectivly insualte the vehicle? Is there anything else that I should/need to do?
 

jasonjc

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Thanks for reminding me I've got to do 2 M109's and a M129:roll: If I can live to be 264 I mite get all the things on my list done.
 

dc239

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I actually came across that thread when doing a search of the site before creating a post. Searched that thread for "insulation" and read all 12 results. It wasn't helpful.
 

KaiserM109

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Phil2968, Thanks for pulling up that old thread. I have an M109 with a non-turbo that just can't cut it at altitude. I bought an M923 and plan to put the box from the 109 on it, maybe bob it.

Another thought is to leave the 923 full length. The 109 box is 12' and the bed on the 923 is 14'. I can get almost 2' more if I move the spare tire and exhaust. I have considered stretching the box and one of those pictures shows me what the frame looks like.

About new insulation, not a bad idea, but also give thought to replacing the floor, including the sheetmetal under the wood. It is usually rusted out.
 

dc239

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Does that stuff work well for you? Where are you located. I'm in in South Dakota, new to the area, and I hear this winter is going to be pretty bad.
 

SCSG-G4

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Does that stuff work well for you? Where are you located. I'm in in South Dakota, new to the area, and I hear this winter is going to be pretty bad.
Two inches of foam will give you an "R" value of about 10, which should be good for a difference between inside and outside wall of 40 degrees. Rest will have to be made up with heaters of some sort. Preferably heaters that do not produce carbon monoxide!
 

dc239

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The Wilderness
I got this stuff at Home Depot. Foam with heat reflective on both sides and the perfect thickness to fit in the space.
This seems like the cheapest route. I also came across your post(in your signature) a while ago. I think when I was looking at flooring. How's the flooring been holding up?



Two inches of foam will give you an "R" value of about 10, which should be good for a difference between inside and outside wall of 40 degrees. Rest will have to be made up with heaters of some sort. Preferably heaters that do not produce carbon monoxide!
Heat seems like it's going to be my biggest problem right now. Although I've done some rewiring and installation of new sockets so I can plug in anywhere, I'm not trying to live at camp sites. So finding a way to heat the vehicle has been hard. I've been using a Mr. Heater brand propane heater but when it's 20 outside and you have a window open for ventallation the heater doesn't work too well. Plus those small propane canisters only last about 6hrs on the lowest setting.
 
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cbrTodd

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Indianapolis, Indiana
... Then spray on a layer of foam insualtion before putting all the panels back on.

Will this effectivly insualte the vehicle? Is there anything else that I should/need to do?
I would caution against using spray foam insulation, at least any open cell type foam like my M109A3's van body had been equipped with. Wherever there were leaks in the outer shell, the spray foam soaked up the water like a sponge, and deposited it in interesting patterns on the inside of the wall. The walls then started to rust from the inside out. It took me forever with an oscillating tool to scrape all the foam out in order to grind out and neutralize the rust.

20131230_160909.jpg

I used pink 2" thick R10 Owens Corning foam board and have been pleased with the insulating properties so far.
 

peashooter

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Hanover, minnesota
I got this stuff at Home Depot. Foam with heat reflective on both sides and the perfect thickness to fit in the space.
View attachment 518819
I agree with Clay on this. I did my box starting with the cheaper pink 2" foam and it was difficult to install since 2" foam requires lots of trimming, the 1.5" foil backed stuff had the same R value as the 2" pink and was easier to cut, fit, etc.... but it cost more. Here is a link to my insulation & box revamp
 
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